Royal Purple?

[COPPERHEAD85]

I never said it was bad.....................Just that it was very $$$$$$$!
My 3000GGT did not like SYN. oil.The whole top end would start rattling like crazy at idle in just a few short minutes.

 

[NMB2]

I never said it was bad.....................Just that it was very $$$$$$$!
My 3000GGT did not like SYN. oil.The whole top end would start rattling like crazy at idle in just a few short minutes.

that probably meant something was wrong with your motor losing oil pressure and draining the lifters. I amsoiled my brothers 3000gt and it works great.

 

[NMB2]

technically you can just "switch right over" but its highly discouraged. You want to try and clean the motor as best as possible to get rid of all of the nonsynthetic oils and deposits left by them. Amsoil has a product called Power Foam which is specifically used for getting a motor ready for the switch. Ive heard people talk about not liking the product because its "hard on the motor" which I will agree with, but your not supposed to use it regularly, just for the switchover, and out of all of the vehicles I've personally switched and sold to people to switch, ive never heard of it damaging the motor.

when I switch a vehicle I usually power foam it, drain motor, change filter, change oil. The first oil change is good for about 3,000-5,000 miles. Then change oil again and you're good for the 25,000 or 1yr. whichever comes first. Remember that is only while using the Amsoil absolute efficiency filter as well.

I also like to run Amsoil P.I through the tank on the first change as well.

Also as a side note, the only vehicle's I run/have run the by-pass system on is vehicles making alot of power or Diesels, Its not needed for regular use or to get the 25k or 1yr guaruntee.

 

[mjonesjr]

There is NO problem in doing a straight conversion to synthetic as ALL motor oils now are 50% synthetic blended with conventional oil. There is NO oil sold for car engines that is full conventional oil.

I have been running Royal Purple in my '06 Grand Cherokee since I got it in August '09. It cost me $53 to change the oil, that is 5 quarts of 5w30 and 1 WIX filter. I change the oil every 6,000 miles, which equates to $26.50 every 3,000 miles. That is only $6 more than I was paying for 5 quarts of 10w30 Motorcraft and a FL-1A Motorcraft filter for my '97 Ranger.

When I changed the oil at my 1st 6,000 mile interval last week, the oil was just as clean as it was when I put it in in early August. I cut the filter open and it looked clean as well. From my experience with full synthetic, I wont go back to blend.

BDAB, do you have any information on the bypass filtration you are using? I wouldn't mind adding it to my Jeep.

 

[Ozwynn]

it came from amzoil, I bought it used from a guy on some chrysler forum. I will try to get pics when it comes back from the body shop.

what engine you got? Amzoil sells alot of kits for alot of engines.

[edit] I can't find it. it taps the the oil pressure sender for oil supply and I had to drill a hole in the oil pan for the return.... [/edit]

 

[mjonesjr]

The Jeep has the 3.7 v6 in it.

 

[NMB2]

There is NO problem in doing a straight conversion to synthetic as ALL motor oils now are 50% synthetic blended with conventional oil. There is NO oil sold for car engines that is full conventional oil.

while this may be true that oils are now labled syntetic and synthetic blends (agreeing that MOST are synthetic BLEND), saying there is NO problem with doing a straight conversion is a bold statement. That statement would lead one to beleive that synthetic is synthetic... which it is not. Oils like royal purple and especially other lower quality oils over time may actually clog or partially clog/build up in oil filters or oil lines and the remainder normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan. That is a big part of the reason you prepare your engine for the swap.

Also the problem with alot of other "full synthetic oils" and "synthetic blends" is that the legal classification for synthetic oil is an oil that meets X standards for purity, so legally they can brand their really clean oil as synthetic because it meets the standard, but it can still come from the ground, not a lab. Did you know that?

Plus! oil isnt the only factor in protection and how clean it stays, your filter plays a huge role, Amsoil Ea filters have a filtering efficiency of nearly 100%, i think the actual number is around 97% at 15 microns(using a bypass system will bring that number down to around 5), I challenge you to find a better filter, you will be lucky to find one over 80%, Most are around 50%.

But remember, cleanliness also is not the ONLY factor, an independant testing facility ran tests that showed Royal Purple showing a significantly high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off rate. This compares to the Amsoil with only a 4.47% volatility rating. Wear scars were also smaller with the amsoil.

I pay $58.25 for 6quarts of Amsoil and an Ea filter, and I usually make it 15,000-20,000 miles in that 1yr period before I have to change, and truthfully I could probably go another 5,000 miles, I just change it at the interval for the principal fact thats what they recommend.

 

[mjonesjr]

There are minium standards that ALL oil has to meet. I am sorry that I haven't fallen for the great PR of Amsoil.

 

[kroussinoffroad]

well i do not have experience with the above said brands but what i can Add is

Make sure if going synthetic it is good quality synthetic oil. I Primarly ride dirt bike's And have a garage full of thumpers. i have ran 3 different brands of oil.
the first i ran was Motoul, I WILL NEVER RUN THAT AGAIN. after tearing into the top end to mess around with timing on my primary bike it was EXTREMELY dirty. I bought this bike new and change the oil every couple of ride's as well as clen the air filter. so i know the oil was the culprit.
The second was Repsol and that stuff was the cat's meow. (it is now impossiable to find localy)after installing a manual cam chain tensioner the motor looked SPOTLESS inside. The oil im running now is bellray "THUMPER OIL" and the guts of the motor still look spotless.

GOOD oil is worth the extra money

 

[NMB2]

There are minium standards that ALL oil has to meet. I am sorry that I haven't fallen for the great PR of Amsoil.

you're absolutly right, there is a minimum standard that ALL oil has to meet. Does that mean that several brands dont Exceed it? Like with most everything there is a minimum standard, and you have the brands that meet it, and you have the brands that exceed it, and you have the brands that pride themselves and go above and beyond, and I'm not just speaking about Oil, I'm referencing most everything.

Do I think royal purple is bad Oil? No. Do I prefer Amsoil? Yes. Have I run both? Yes. and I beleive my choice of the 2 is based on legitimate factual information.

Do I think you should prepare your engine for the QUALITY Synthetic swap even if you arent going to switch to Amsoil? most definitly.

Once again, yes I am somewhat bias, but only because thats what I have found to work best, In my opinion.

Which is what the oil debate is usually about, opinions and preferences.

Just because you're not running full synthetic doesnt mean your motor is going to blow up, because it most probably wont (although crappy oil filters have caused failures). I'm just a stickler when it comes to lubrications and fuels, ect....

and as for the cost debate that alot of people think about when brands like Amsoil and RP is brought up.

I pay $58.25, as does my preferred customers. (btw I hardly ever sell Amsoil, I got into it to get cheap oil and hook people up with the preferred customer program after I left the business front) Retail is closer to $71-$80 for 6qts and Ea filter. That lasts a gaurunteed and proven 25k or 1yr.

Its just a more costly Initial investment, but pays for itself in duration of the oil and increase of fuel economy.

 

[exbass94]

There are minium standards that ALL oil has to meet. I am sorry that I haven't fallen for the great PR of Amsoil.

you're absolutly right, there is a minimum standard that ALL oil has to meet.

FWIW, oils do not HAVE to meet the standards. All auto parts stores still sell API SA rated non-detergent oil, which has been an obsolete spec for over 50 years. Wal-Mart sells Accel brand oil that is only SF rated, etc. Any oil company could sell oil that doesn't meet the most current spec, or any performance specs at all. (Amsoil for example)

 

[NMB2]

I actually didnt know that about the Minimum standards.


Edit: I didnt know this far indepth but this is what I had a basic understanding of -

quoted from their website:

The International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) also has standards for motor oil. Their latest standard, GF-4[9] was approved in 2004, and applies to SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 viscosity grade oils. In general, ILSAC works with API in creating the newest gasoline oil specification, with ILSAC adding an extra requirement of fuel economy testing to their specification. For GF-4, a Sequence VIB Fuel Economy Test (ASTM D6837) is required that is not required in API service category SM.

A key new test for GF-4, which is also required for API SM, is the Sequence IIIG, which involves running a 3.8 L (232 in³), GM 3.8 L V-6 at 125 hp (93 kW), 3,600 rpm, and 150 °C (300 °F) oil temperature for 100 hours. These are much more severe conditions than any API-specified oil was designed for: cars which typically push their oil temperature consistently above 100 °C (212 °F) are most turbocharged engines, along with most engines of European or Japanese origin, particularly small capacity, high power output.

The IIIG test is about 50% more difficult[10] than the previous IIIF test, used in GF-3 and API SL oils. Engine oils bearing the API starburst symbol since 2005 are ILSAC GF-4 compliant.[11]


To help consumers recognize that an oil meets the ILSAC requirements, API developed a "starburst" certification mark.

 

[kroussinoffroad]

acctually as far a the API rating it was bumped up right after i graduated i remember swithing all the oil tanks at the shop I worked at to the new oil.

 

[Ozwynn]

while this may be true that oils are now labled syntetic and synthetic blends (agreeing that MOST are synthetic BLEND), saying there is NO problem with doing a straight conversion is a bold statement. That statement would lead one to beleive that synthetic is synthetic... which it is not. Oils like royal purple and especially other lower quality oils over time may actually clog or partially clog/build up in oil filters or oil lines and the remainder normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan. That is a big part of the reason you prepare your engine for the swap.

Also the problem with alot of other "full synthetic oils" and "synthetic blends" is that the legal classification for synthetic oil is an oil that meets X standards for purity, so legally they can brand their really clean oil as synthetic because it meets the standard, but it can still come from the ground, not a lab. Did you know that?

Plus! oil isnt the only factor in protection and how clean it stays, your filter plays a huge role, Amsoil Ea filters have a filtering efficiency of nearly 100%, i think the actual number is around 97% at 15 microns(using a bypass system will bring that number down to around 5), I challenge you to find a better filter, you will be lucky to find one over 80%, Most are around 50%.

But remember, cleanliness also is not the ONLY factor, an independant testing facility ran tests that showed Royal Purple showing a significantly high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off rate. This compares to the Amsoil with only a 4.47% volatility rating. Wear scars were also smaller with the amsoil.

I pay $58.25 for 6quarts of Amsoil and an Ea filter, and I usually make it 15,000-20,000 miles in that 1yr period before I have to change, and truthfully I could probably go another 5,000 miles, I just change it at the interval for the principal fact thats what they recommend.

I run the Purple ........ got a Kenworth outside with 100,XXX miles on Royal Purple right now..... I also use balwin filters on it. I got Royal Purple in the minivan right now but before that was mobile1, I got 15,000 miles out of it @ $5.53 a quart.....

I got a free RP filter when i bought the RP for the minivan.... it weighs 4 times what the purolator filter for it weighed...... pretty heavily constructed.

I prefer the royal purple. I didn't care for the amsoil...... too much vibration in my 12.7L detroits that disappeared almost completely when we switched to RP.

 

[opbeagler1]

yes royal purple

been using it for years . 07 4x4 4dr fx4 10w40 royal purple . mobil 1 filter . works great for me