Ranger_Rickster
Member
I have a 1998 3.0 manual transmission here to doing exactly the same thing. 2,900 to 3,000 rpm in between shifts or coasting with the clutch in all the way depressed until my truck comes to a complete stop. It is very annoying coming up to stop lights with a racing revving engine.
Mine seems to do it more now in winter on more humid or foggy days and very cold days.
I tried a brand new IAC valve right away and it was good for 2 weeks and then started coming back.
mine always idles at 1,500 to 1,700 first start up on cold days, and when warm idles at 1,000 i tried to lower it before by adjusting the idle screw to 700 or 800 and it did not like that, started stuttering.
I will do the battery reset tomorrow first, i did not do that when i replaced the IAC.
Then i will check for vacuum leaks with brake kleen.
Then check TB plate is clean or dirty.
Then check TPS voltage is good and smooth no spikes.
Check the wiring going to IAC, TPC, PCM, and the 2 coolant temp sensors for corrosion etc...
Thanks for all the advice in this thread, hope the OP has solved or is solving his truck.
I will report back if and what fixed mine here.
Mine seems to do it more now in winter on more humid or foggy days and very cold days.
I tried a brand new IAC valve right away and it was good for 2 weeks and then started coming back.
mine always idles at 1,500 to 1,700 first start up on cold days, and when warm idles at 1,000 i tried to lower it before by adjusting the idle screw to 700 or 800 and it did not like that, started stuttering.
I will do the battery reset tomorrow first, i did not do that when i replaced the IAC.
Then i will check for vacuum leaks with brake kleen.
Then check TB plate is clean or dirty.
Then check TPS voltage is good and smooth no spikes.
Check the wiring going to IAC, TPC, PCM, and the 2 coolant temp sensors for corrosion etc...
Thanks for all the advice in this thread, hope the OP has solved or is solving his truck.
I will report back if and what fixed mine here.
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