Reusing old parts

[swynx]

Got a 302 torn down, wanting to replace all the bearings and seals I can. Would you guys reuse pistons as long as the wrist pin movement feels good and has no slop, engine has like 230k on it. Was running when pulled from the f150.

New hyperuetic pistons are like 150 but I'd almost rather do forged, so I don't have to do it again, but if I bought pistons it'll put me further out on other parts.

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[rusty ol ranger]

Honestly, if your that far into it id replace them. Its better then getting it all back togther and having something go south, then you gotta tear it all back apart not only to fix what broke, but whatever else what broke decided to destroy.

If the motor only had 100k on it, it might be a different story, but 230k is toward the top of a 302s general lifespan. Espicially if its a junkyard or otherwise used motor you have no idea how it was ran or taken care of. Those pistons/pins might have numerous 5500rpm turns on them, you just dont know.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The ring grooves wear on the pistons too, there is a spec for that. If just reringing be sure to ream the ring ridge down in the bores. Otherwise you can break rings and pistons ramming new sharp rings in the ridge worn by dull rings.

 

[adsm08]

I kind of agree with Rusty. At 100K I wouldn't think twice about reusing them. At 230K I don't think I would.

 

[swynx]

The truck actually belonged to grandpa, he just used it for a daily 80 mile commute to feed the cows for several years. So it hasn't been abused, engine never made any weird noises.

But I was leaning on replacing them. I have quite a few people telling me I'm getting "too in depth" replacing stock parts.

But I don't really think so. I just don't wanna tear the engine or trans out till i get the next engine built.

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[adsm08]

Just remember that when you go replacing internals on a 302 it needs balanced.

 

[swynx]

Yeah, what all needs to be taken to the shop? Crank, rods, pistons, rings, flywheel, and harmonic balancer?

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[adsm08]

Yeah, what all needs to be taken to the shop? Crank, rods, pistons, rings, flywheel, and harmonic balancer?

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That is how I understand it. I've only had one 5.0 that far apart and I used all the original parts, but it only had 88K.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you are buying new pistons you might as well touch up the bores... and so the snowball begins.

 

[fastpakr]

Hmm... Let's hope I didn't screw myself by re-using the pistons in my rebuild. Since the block only needed honing, I just had the assembly balanced after the crank was turned and called it a day. 248k miles.

 

[adsm08]

If you are buying new pistons you might as well touch up the bores... and so the snowball begins.

I have no issues rebuilding engines myself, but for anything internally balanced I will tear it all down and drop the bare block and internals at the machine shop, expecting an assembled short block to come back to me.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Hmm... Let's hope I didn't screw myself by re-using the pistons in my rebuild. Since the block only needed honing, I just had the assembly balanced after the crank was turned and called it a day. 248k miles.

If they are not in bad shape I don't think there would be a problem.

I have no issues rebuilding engines myself, but for anything internally balanced I will tear it all down and drop the bare block and internals at the machine shop, expecting an assembled short block to come back to me.

I was just saying the "while I am here" mindset is a pretty slippery slope.

Going to rering it -> might as well just do new pistons too -> might as well have it bored out the next size for the new pistons -> gotta balance it -> probably should turn the crank -> Might as well line bore the block... and then you get to the heads.

 

[fastpakr]

If they are not in bad shape I don't think there would be a problem.

I don't think so either. Let's hope we're both smart.

I was just saying the "while I am here" mindset is a pretty slippery slope.

Going to rering it -> might as well just do new pistons too -> might as well have it bored out the next size for the new pistons -> gotta balance it -> probably should turn the crank -> Might as well line bore the block... and then you get to the heads.

And this is how my machine shop bill ballooned to $1700.

 

[swynx]

I'm trying to do the smallest amount of outside work on the engine as I can. Every one recommends have rods shot peened and everything you mentioned. But I've seen numerous engines that haven't had any of that crap done to them.

At 230k this engine still has some cross hatching in all the cylinders, was gonna dingle ball it, reuse crank and rods if there good. The crank bearings were barely showing copper on a few.

I have a a9l ecu so I need the ho/351 pattern so I'm buying a small lunati cam, with lifters and new pushrods, and valve springs, lap the valves.

Going to try and find gt40s at the pull n save, I see a set almost eveytime I'm there. Besides I also need the upper/lower intake fuel rail, fuel injector harness. And fead from an explorer.

It adds up so fast.

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[adsm08]

I was just saying the "while I am here" mindset is a pretty slippery slope.

Going to rering it -> might as well just do new pistons too -> might as well have it bored out the next size for the new pistons -> gotta balance it -> probably should turn the crank -> Might as well line bore the block... and then you get to the heads.

It can be. I have gotten to the point where I have it down pretty pat. I take all my own measurements once I get it torn down, so I pretty much know what I am getting into before I even call the shop. If I get lucky like I did my my last two engines where the cylinders where at nearly nominal spec I might just run a berry bush down it, or even scuff the walls with 160 grit, and go.

Normally when I drop an engine off it's check n' deck heads, cam bearings, and balance if it needed new pistons on an IB engine.