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replacing steering box


1993rangerxl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2013
Messages
129
City
Florida
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Manual
Started with leaking return line, replaced, ran less than two minutes and blew out seal on top of steering box. Have reman box will start work in the morning. Can use any and all help, suggestions, shortcuts, little things not mentioned in Hayes repair manual. Thanks in advance to all that respond.
 
Make double super sure to lock the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, and center the box before installing it.

To center the box put some vice grips on the input, they don't have to be super tight. Then turn it all the way one way, turn it all the way back counting rotations, then turn it half way back again.
 
Remove the pitman arm first, that will be the hardest part usually. Go out tonight and soak the 2 line fittings on top of the box with penetrating oil so they will have a chance of coming undone tomorrow. The fitting usually freezes to the steel line.
 
Lines came off with no problems. Got the nut off pitman arm and have broke the puller! Pitman arm has not budged!
 
Did you set the pitman arm under pressure, then whack it more/less gently with a hammer? Soak it in PB? I was stressing my puller, then used some percussive maintenance and it came right off.

Never went back on though... refuses to fully seat (nut goes on all the way, but not as much as it did), broke a 1/2" breaker bar putting the nut on LOL.
 
My steering box already came centered so see if it says it on one of the papers, I replaced the power steering pump at same time, still trying to bleed the air out of it, still pretty whiny. Not driving it right know so not big deal i go out there and watch a show and turn it back and fourth. Fun other than bleeding its not bad
 
It you have a large vise, I would take the box out with the pitman still attached to it (you still need to take it off the center link) and then put the box in the vise to get the pitman arm off.

Remove the wheel liner to make getting to the hoses, and bleeding the system, much easier.

If the truck has seen off-road action in the last 21 years, you will likely find a bunch of dirt inside the frame rail where the bolts go through to the box on the driver side. Spend a few minutes to clean it out.

Flushing can take 30-45 minutes and a big mess if you do it without help, or 5 minutes and no mess if you have someone to either hold the return hose over a container, or rock the steering wheel so you can hold the bucket.
 
Ended up taking it to a repair shop. They said it was a real b.... even after applying heat. Done now. Still have small leak now, trying to find source.
 

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