replacing drums, any suggestions?

[User Name missing]

I'm gonna replace the rear drums and shoes on my 96 ranger here soon. Is there anything else I should do while its apart? Are there any bearings that are as easy/inexpensive to replace like the front bearings? What are the good jacking/jack stand points on the rear? thanx

 

[creepinjeepster]

Jacking and jack stand points would be the rear axle. Besides drums and shoes, may want to check the brake adjusters too. Cylinders tend to sieze sometimes. Outer seals not a bad thing to inspect or replace if needed. Wheel stud threads could be checked and replaced if needed. Brake line inspection.
Few things I'd check while I was replacing the brakes.

 

[modelageek]

replace the wheel cylinders they are cheap, you should get a new hardware set also, springs etc (you will have to bleed the brakes if you change the wheel cylinders)

 

[Toms01PSD]

Whatever you do, DON'T get the valucraft drums if you shop at AZ. I got the valucraft drums for my truck and they wouldn't fit even though they were brand new. I took them back and compared them to the more expensive duralast and the valucrafts were not the same size.

 

[modelageek]

order the parts from rock auto they are cheaper

 

[User Name missing]

I quite buying valuecraft when the rotors on my car warped in under 5k miles........no, I bought the parts from advance since they had a sale.

so the wheel cylinders are easy to do? not liking the idea of bleeding the brakes, but whatever.

 

[modelageek]

wheel cylinders are real easy just 2 bolts and the brake line. hit the brake line with liquid wrench, you will have to worry a little about the brake lines being rusted http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/images/smilies/bawling.gif but if they are rusted you want to replace them anyways. I did all the brakes on my truck 2 months ago. bought the rotors at advanced I forget the brand but they worked great about $50 each I changed the rear shoes and wheel cylinders. I cleaned the drums with brake cleaner and put them back on . they worked fine. http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif ( if they had not worked out fine it is pretty easy to pull them off. if yours are scorred you might as well get new ones. remeber to lube up the ebrake cable and hit the spots were the shoe rubs against with brake grease.drum brakes are a pain I find buying the new hardware makes it easier and a needle nose plier works better for me for pulling of the little spring cups that hold the shoe on . and dont forget there is a shoe for the front and a adifferent shoe for the rear. Do one side at a time http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/images/smilies/icon_idea.gif ..... I am sure you know most of this info but just trying to help....http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/images/smilies/shok.gif

 

[AllanD]

Actually if you have 10" drums when you buy new ones LIE to the parts supplier.

Tell them you are buying drums for an Aerostar.

The aerostar drums are heavier and have fins on them.

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[User Name missing]

so if I do the wheel cylinders, do I have to remove the actual brake line or just the bleeder fitting/whatever? if I do have to remove the line, then I'll probably have problems considered I just replace one of the front brake lines cause it rusted thru. awsome, and I'll be doin this myself...............

 

[creepinjeepster]

Only have to remove brake line completely if it breaks or is rusted and in need of replacement itself. During the wheel cylinder replacement, it will need to be disconnected from the cylinder only.

 

[TomB1269]

Dang, AllenD I wish I had that info about 2 years ago when one set of shoes decided to separate from the backer and the other side refused to come off. I had to drill the drum and punch out the shoes. IE, new drums both sides..............

 

[AllanD]

the 1992-up Aerostar drums have fins on them but they are around twice as heavy as the thinner Ranger drums.

IF you can't use ventilation, like ventilated brake rotors, Thermal mass is your friend.

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[User Name missing]

well got it all done Saturday. Was a PITA doin it by myself. Shoulda saw me trying to bleed the brakes! But I'm not sure if they are working (properly). I do know the parking brake is not working (hardly at all). I can feel it engaged, but not enough to prevent the truck from rolling. So, what should I do now? I'm not keen on the idea of taking it back apart and it could take awhile til I can get some help. Thinking bout taking it in to a mechanic for inspection to see whats wrong.

 

[modelageek]

You proably beed to adjust the brake shoes. Use a screwdriver or brake adjuster tool to spin the adjusting wheel. You insert the tool thru the slot in the plate. Maybe the ebrake needs adjusting

 

[User Name missing]

won't it adjust automatically if I drive/brake in reverse? I remember having to do this on the drums on the car, but we also had a spring in upside down and didnt realize it until after we spun it manually (spring was prevent it from adjusting it on its own).

also, shouldnt the hardware pack have came with a new spring for that adjuster plate/bracket? I had to bend one of the springs cause it wasnt creating enough tension on the one side. only springs it came with was the red (not used), green, white, blue (retaining) and black (the long on on the bottom). Kinda shoddy it didnt come with a new adjuster spring.