Replacing D35 parts, need help

[matt32]

I am going to be replacing some parts on my D35(truck is a 1996 Ext. Cab 4.0L 4x4, warn manual locking hubs if that helps) I have been doing a lot of looking around in the tech library and the forums but I cant seem to find a straight answer I wanted to know how many of each part i need to rebuild both sides part numbers?? (trying to stick with Spicer for as many of the parts as i can)

1) Ball joints? 2 upper & 2 lower?....spicer a good brand for these?
2) U-Joints? will be upgrading to spicer 5-760X but dont know how many to get
3) 4 Wheel bearings, 2 inner & 2 outer? who makes good ones? part #?
4) anything else i should look to replace while I am down there?
5) I only have your basic set of tools. i know i need a ball joint press, what do you recommend? do i need a tool for the wheel bearing removal & installation?

Sorry to ask so many questions i just want to make sure that i get all the right parts and the correct number of them. Once i start this project i wont have a vehicle so i want to get this done as fast/correctly as possible. Thanks in advance!

 

[matt32]

Edit: Bill of Materials # for my truck is: 610483-12

 

[Shran]

4 balljoints total, 2 upper 2 lower. Spicer is a good brand, so is Moog.
3 U-joints, one for drivers side and two for passenger side. Spicer is a good brand.
4 Wheel bearings, Timken is about the best brand
2 wheel bearing seals
1 container of wheel bearing grease
1 tube of blue RTV
2 quarts of gear lube, 80w-90
1 small ziplock bag for repacking wheel bearings
4 cans of cheap brake cleaner

Check your spindle bearings too. Replace if necessary, repack them regardless. Since you're in there already, I'd just go ahead and do a brake job. You will need a wheel bearing locknut socket, should be 2 3/8. A seal puller is good to have, but you can make due with a pry bar or nail puller to get the dust seals out of the brake rotors. You'll also need a T-27 (or maybe T-25..can't remember which) socket bit for the u-joint straps. You need a seal installer tool for the wheel bearing seals but nothing for the bearings themselves, and any old ball joint press will work. Harbor freight has them for cheap and they help with u-joints sometimes too.

 

[matt32]

OK Awesome! so for the ball joint press does it have to be a "4 wheel drive" press? I am looking at them now and they have a "regular kit" and a "4 wheel drive" kit at harbor freight?

what about the seal puller would either of these work?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR-W83020&N=700+4294925139+4294925137+4294814989+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR-W1219&N=700+4294925139+4294925137+4294815066+115&autoview=sku

All the wheel bearing sockets say for "Use With Automatic hubs" will they still work for my application since I have warn manual hubs? Like this one:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WMR-W1269&view=1&N=700+150+4294908331+4294907827+&appfilter=1&FROM=MG

Thanks again,
Matt

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

the first tool you list is a seal/race installer. the second is a puller. niether is really required (ive worked without them for years), but they do make life easier.

the auto and manual hubs use different spindle nuts, you need one for manual hubs. any ford 1/2 ton spindle nut socket for manual hubs will work, and most of your local auto parts stores should have one in stock. it'll look like this:

i reccomend replacing both your spindle seal AND axle slingers while your in there. these parts are often overlooked, but just as crucial as wheel seals in keeping crud out of the wheel bearings and hubs.

 

[np24]

don't get the socket with teeth that stick out, like above. get the socket that has teeth that stick in. it won't pop off when your trying to torque the outer lock nuts.

 

[sloue]

don't get the socket with teeth that stick out, like above. get the socket that has teeth that stick in. it won't pop off when your trying to torque the outer lock nuts.

+1

 

[Ranger44]

1) Spicer Professional Grade
2) You'll need 3. If you wheel, this mod will be of great benifit:
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May06/dana35_ujoint_snapring.htm

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/CClipEliminator.html

3). Timken(SET37)(autozone) and National Wheel Bearing(A37)(O'Reilly's)
4). Like others have said, spindle bearings. Maybe the axle seals on the diff housing.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/spindlebearing.html

5). http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/balljoints2.htm

 

[matt32]

don't get the socket with teeth that stick out, like above. get the socket that has teeth that stick in. it won't pop off when your trying to torque the outer lock nuts.

yep, I read that somewhere here a while back. Also doing that full snapring mod as well, that's kinda what got me started on this project.

Found the Timken wheel bearing and seal kits at Autozone

Anyone know who/where to get the Timken spindle kit from?...their part number is SBK4, but I cant seem to find it anywhere.

the first tool you list is a seal/race installer. the second is a puller. niether is really required (ive worked without them for years), but they do make life easier.

Should I bother to get either, what other way do you remove/install them?

 

[Shran]

Check around at all your local auto parts stores...somebody has to have the spindle bearings & seals. Or at least they will be able to order them. You may have to buy the bearings separately from the seals.

The seal installer is the only one I would recommend getting...you can get them for like $10 at O'Reilly and it's worth having so that you don't ruin a $10 seal (ask me how I know.) You can use a pry bar or nail puller to get the seals out.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

Should I bother to get either, what other way do you remove/install them?

like i said, its up to you if you want to get those tools. like i said, ive woked without them for a long time, but thats because im a dirt poor bastard

i use a screwdriver to pry seals out and just tap them in with a hammer.

 

[matt32]

Sweet deal, thanks for the advice guys I think I will just buy the seal installer tool, and just use a screwdriver or something to pry them out with.

What do you guys think about this ball joint kit from harbor freight:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4065

 

[BeaterMan]

that balljoint press works very well. and for the price, it makes life a whole lot easier.

 

[crbnunit]

Here is a tip for torquing the spindle nuts. After re-installing everything and greasing the bearings, put the splined washer on the stub shaft and install the c-clip to hold it in place. Make sure the splined wasner isn't pulled tight against the spindle. If it is, it will waste the washer and contaminate your hub and wehel bearings with metal. It will also allow the stub shaft to move and possibly pull out of the hub. If it is tight against the spindle, find out why.

Torque the inner nut (pin outward) to 30ft/lbs while spinning the brake rotor. This is easier with two people but not necessary. Back the nut off 1/4 turn or so and retorque to 16in/lbs. Just over hand tight if you don't have a wrench in in/lbs. Install the keyed washer with the holes. Flip it if it doesn't line up with the pin in the inner nut. Now, put a jack stand outboard of the spindle in such a way and height to allow you to support the middle of your socket. If you do this, your socket will not slip off when you are trying to get that 200+ ft/lbs of torque on the outer nut. The book says 150ft/lbs. That is probably enough for the little 185/75's it came with stock. If you are running bigger, think 200-225ft/lbs. Oh, and the spindle threads should be clean and relatively grease free.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

a 1/2" impact works well to "torque" the outer nut too if you have one