Replacing a solenoid in 5r44e

[liveandletdie]

it's a 5r44e transmission either that or a 4r44e

its in an automatic 1998 ranger with the 2.5L

I'm a little afraid to open up the transmission because I don't want to screw it up, I'm going to do a transmission flush after. I mess around down there while I have the thing opened...and fluid might be draining anyways. (Going to use an oil catch but dunno if that will be large enough..

Anyways..does anyone have advice or pictures of from some helpful repairs?

And how can i tell which solenoid is the solenoid that shifts from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd (Seems to be where it is shifting roughly the worst)

Also any advice on what to look for once I get this thing opened...

How can I test whether a solenoid is functioning properly?

Also..i've looked for kinks in the electrical, or pieces that might be malfunctioning on the outside but I haven't found any. I could be looking in the wrong places though, where are some spots for me to look?

I read on one website it is very rare for a solenoid to break or stop working on these transmissions.

http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/TS6-BW-106-109.pdf

Pretty much the only helpful website I could find and I dont understand half of what it is saying.

 

[liveandletdie]

Also the truck is 2wd...

Cmon people..give me something..

 

[liveandletdie]

Also..if it matters..The positive terminal on my battery seems to be very curroded..I am thinking of getting a new batter to see if that fixes the error code being sent....(Becuase I have been thinking it is a short but I cannot find it- I will return the battery if it does not fix the problem wiht the problem.)

 

[Viper Command]

If it is a bad solenoid, it would throw the check engine light, but they may be cloging up.

there is no major disassembly req., get A pan gasket and filter.

when you do the filter change all of the solenoids are right there, unplug them 1 at a time and grab a 10mm socket and remove the retainer, thet slide right out.

tools needed: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm sockets w/ 3" ext., solvent, and a soft brush.

its almost free to do, and you can get use to your 4r44e.

 

[liveandletdie]

If it is a bad solenoid, it would throw the check engine light, but they may be cloging up.

there is no major disassembly req., get A pan gasket and filter.

when you do the filter change all of the solenoids are right there, unplug them 1 at a time and grab a 10mm socket and remove the retainer, thet slide right out.

tools needed: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm sockets w/ 3" ext., solvent, and a soft brush.

its almost free to do, and you can get use to your 4r44e.

Thanks for the reply- is there any way to figure out which solenoid is the broken one? (Still not confident it is the actual solenoid) Each solenoid is $80 a piece...I bought one hoping to only replace one- would be a major drain on funds if I have to buy all 3 or 4 (I think its 3?)..I'm a student and funds are not regularily there.

when you say pan gasket and filter, where are they located?
From what I have found should just be underneath the transmission.
(Sorry inexperienced at mechanical work other than doing an oil changes which is the easiest thing to do as far as maintenence and I always make a mess when I do that as well)

What does the filter look like and how much would you estimate it costs? And the gasket?

Here is why I don't think it is the solenoid...

When this first started happening it could be in ten minutes after i drive or it could be 30. When you first turn on the car and drive it around the solenoid are working fine. Then after a few minutes of driving (has now decreased to consistantly around 5-10) you can feel it down shift awkwardly and then when it shifts from 1-2 and 2-3 the shift is really rough, a little rough in 3-4 as well but not as bad as first two shifts. Does this sound like it's the solenoid? I am thinking it just needs more lubricant somewhere and if that is the case where would the lubricant that's causing this problem be located? Right on the solenoid?

 

[Viper Command]

Your solenoids are not bad. the might just need to be cleaned, there is a screen around the solenoids that get clogged.

your filter is on the in side of your trans pan, and your filter is attached to your valve body, and thats where your solenoids are.

now your filter could be clogged and not letting the fluid flow like it should. Have you ever had the filter serviced before?

and you also need 3-4qts of (((mercon5))) trans fluid.

I dont know what the solenoid orders is.

save your new solenoid and replace your filter and clean your solenoids, this is most likely your problem, and its alot cheeper and should be done as basic maintnence any ways.

 

[liveandletdie]

Thanks viper you've been alot of help, have the pan off and have drained all of the fluid. I am not sure how to pull the solenoids out though? There is a plastic plug on top of each one where the wire connects and I'm not sure if I just pull the plug off? Or is there a screw?

Went to westbay and they wanted $28 for the transmission kit, but I went to shucks and they had a kit for $13...different brand but doesn't look much different- hopefully will work the same.

Wan't to clean everything I can before I put it all back together.

(Mostly want these solenoids cleaned or their filter as you say)

 

[Viper Command]

The wire plugs slide off in the way that the wires are going(pull softly).

there are a few 10mm bolts right next to the solenoids holding down some small sheet metal straps, un bolt them slide off the straps and slide out the solenoids one at a time(dont mix them up, they have different flow rates).

post if you have any problems...

$13 sounds better, I get mine for about $8. so your not far off.

also when your there inspect the wires make shure there are no cracks or missing sheilding or shrinking, signs of major over heating.

 

[liveandletdie]

the wires look good, no heat damage or tearing..

Removed the clips one was very dirty- looks like debree from the clutchs just like in the pan. On one of the clips a solenoid nearly slid out on it's own, do they lock back in some way or just slide in and sit there? because it looks like there is a lip on it that could be some way to lock in but maybe not.


here's a photo of first solenoid to be pulled and cleaned

plus the clips- also the solenoid that I first pulled i think looks a little different then the rest- does not look like the solenoid I bought at autozone.

 

[liveandletdie]

Well..all cleaned out just need to put pan on

Says not to glue the gasket to the pan, what kind of grease should I be using?

I have a black tube don't know the brand..says 2-4-C Multi-Lube

Then another white tube by Johnson OMC Evinrude..says triple guard grease. Looks like it is boat grease- water proof, anti-corrosion....

Not sure if either of these will work seem more like gear grease but dunno if that matters..gonna look around for some more maybe.

(Just took picture before I finished cleaning so anyone can see the tranny without the pan/filter)

 

[Viper Command]

Dont apply grease to any thing, you can only use trans assembly lube or none at all.

the first solenoid is your TCC lockup solenoid.

Also be shure to put the O rings on the new filter.

your VB looks good.

 

[freelife04239]

There is a gasket in the valvbody that some times blows and can cause low lin presure. This will cause slow or soft shifts and a delay when shifthin in to gear. Have you checked this befor you replace the pan? Im just asking because I have a ranger with same prob as yoursI think but have not wanted to mess with tranny. please let us know how this works out!!

 

[liveandletdie]

There is a gasket in the valvbody that some times blows and can cause low lin presure. This will cause slow or soft shifts and a delay when shifthin in to gear. Have you checked this befor you replace the pan? Im just asking because I have a ranger with same prob as yoursI think but have not wanted to mess with tranny. please let us know how this works out!!

Not sure about this gasket...did not get a chance to look for it before I sealed it up.

So I sealed it back up (120in/lb torque rench) and it was still having the same shifting problem- no leaks.
However, my brother suggested I reset the computer by unplugging the battery for half an hour. (According to him with the error still in the computer it would continue to do the errror....not sure) So I did that...and now I may have fixed it? Crossing my fingers...Drove it about 20 minutes last night and no overdrive flashing, shifts are mostly solid- however 1st to 2nd can still be a little rough sometimes...though nothing like it used to be- thinking the more I drive it the better it will get if the new filter has time to work and get all the gunk out of the old fluid.

Also went with the expensive high mileage fluid by castrol in a green bottle....says it will work for merc v, though wondering if i should have went with the merc v from walmart brand.


Going to do a longer drive today to see if it turns on, need the truck to be good to go before I head across the state.

 

[Viper Command]

Sounds like you got it.

 

[liveandletdie]

looks like not =(



Took it out today...although it is slipping less (probably just the difference in fluid) the light came back on as well as some bad slips afterward. Only in 1st to 2nd and less so 2nd to 3rd....4th 5th are very smooth and car does well on the highway.

Few details to add though none are new and could be unrelated...sometimes near 15-20 and i have the break down it will make a clunking noise assumedly when it is switching from 2nd to 1st.

Had the codes checked before I reset the computer it said cam shaft sensor failure and same solenoid failure check (P1740) AND (P0340)

Had codes checked again today and (P1740) is only one showing...i think the P0340 was a fluke but if it wasn't how would that effect the solenoid if at all?

Also my radio is doing this wierd thing where my amplifier will wierd out and it will sound like my radio speakers are blown but then if i have the car shut off and on it usually brings it back to normal.

Another little detail dont think i mentioned....if I turn the car off for over 5 min it will make the overdrive light blinking/bad shifting go away again just like i started it fresh the first time. (though will of course come back to bad shifting eventually)

Grr...well maybe just ignore it as I was =(