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Replacing 8.8 drum with 8.8 disc from Explorer


Michael Bowman

New Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2007
Messages
2
City
Ooltewah
Vehicle Year
1993
Transmission
Automatic
I have been considering replacing my old worn out 8.8 drum with a newer 8.8 disc from an Explorer. Is there a width issue here. My Ranger is a 93 supercab 2wd
 
expo brakes wont bolt onto your 28spline........

go mustang brakes.
 
Mustang brakes don't bolt on directly either.

And the explorer axle isn't a direct bolt-in.

AD
 
You will have to flip the spring perches on the sploder 8.8. You will also have to come up with a way to connect the ebrakes on the sploder axle to your rangers ebrake cable.

The explorer axle will be about 3/4" wider than your current 8.8.
 
Mustang brakes ARE a bolt-on. Does require cutting the stang caliper bracket, but thats nothing compared to getting someone to weld perches and shock mounts and you still have a parking brake that's a pain in the butt to work on(explorer)...

Stang brakes you can utilize your EXISTING p-brake line that you disconnected at the drum.

My brother's Stang brake info page:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/f6/f43/f59/95557-how-rear-disc-brake-conversion-stock.html

Some pics pulled form his page...

Bracket_LH.JPG


Bracket_LH_56m.JPG


disc8.jpg


P9120148.jpg
 
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My only problem with getting mustang brakes is that those capliers are a b-snatch to compress when it comes time for now pads. I hate those stupid turn in calipers the fusions and taurus platforms have them too. they are such a pain to work on and you need special tools to do it.

still, awesome info wannabe. I'll def be using this when I go to convert.
 
I used long handle needle nose pliers to compress them...

Plus, the special tool is basically a modified nutdriver....I need to make one. lol. The proper tool is worth the investment I think.
 
Yes, this tool is definitely handy to have around for those calipers. The thing I hate is on the new freestyle/taurus/taurus X the passenger side caliper piston is left hand threaded. That is a bit of a pain.

41Jn0r59ABL._SL500_AA280_.jpg


Personally I really prefer the explorer hat style parking brake to the mustang's style. Better holding power.
 
Didn't rwenzing do a exploder rear with disc swap can't remember if his was from a that or mustang I guess I could just look it up...

Edit: nope-Mustang SVO vented rotors, Eldorado calipers, fabbed mounts
727284_90_full.jpg

727284_91_full.jpg
 
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Mustang brakes ARE a bolt-on. Does require cutting the stang caliper bracket, but thats nothing compared to getting someone to weld perches and shock mounts and you still have a parking brake that's a pain in the butt to work on(explorer)...

Stang brakes you can utilize your EXISTING p-brake line that you disconnected at the drum.

My brother's Stang brake info page:

http://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2/f6/f43/f59/95557-how-rear-disc-brake-conversion-stock.html

Some pics pulled form his page...

Bracket_LH.JPG


Bracket_LH_56m.JPG


Wow, that is a lot of material removed from that bracket and part of that material removed is a mounting hole!!! I would be concerned about its integrity and safety in a situation where you need to slam on the brakes.

If it were my truck and I absolutely had to have rear discs, I would find someone to weld the brackets on an explorer rear end and go from there.

I also understand that a vented drum from an Aerostar will fit on the 8.8... this will give you better cooling on the drum.

AJ
 
^^^ Shane wouldn't let his brother cut a bracket like that and put it on his truck if it wasn't safe. If you don't want to cut the bracket like that find an explorer axle with disc brakes and swap the whole axle in.
 
It's perfectly safe and havn't you ever noticed how front caliper brackets are only mounted via 2 bolts? 3 grade 8 3/8" bolts are just fine.

And let me tell you, I was beatin the living piss out that little truck when bedding in the new 13" front cobra rotors and the 12" rear cobra rotors and pads... 75 to 2 @ full pedal pressure.

I've never driven a vehicle that would trigger the 'low fuel' light under braking with over 1/2 tank of gas...until now...
 
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It's perfectly safe and havn't you ever noticed how front caliper brackets are only mounted via 2 bolts? 3 grade 8 3/8" bolts are just fine.

And let me tell you, I was beatin the living piss out that little truck when bedding in the new 13" front cobra rotors and the 12" rear cobra rotors and pads... 75 to 2 @ full pedal pressure.

I've never driven a vehicle that would trigger the 'low fuel' light under braking with over 1/2 tank of gas...until now...

I never have either, even my sad pathetic little drums on the original 7.5 can easily drag my tires on pavement. Once you lock up the tires it is game over, bigger brakes are not going to make them lock up any better with anything close to stock sized tires. I suppose not having a low fuel light could be a snag too...

The OP is asking about swapping axles anyway, not just the brakes. I am putting a disk 8.8 in my '85, aside from the flip and shock mounts, the only issues that would apply to you is the brake line routing and E-brake cable.

I got a second passenger side brake line to go between the hardline and caliper for the driver side, and am going to keep the T on top of the diff like Ford had it on my original Ranger axle, rather than going to the driver side caliper like on the Explorer.

My truck is an automatic, I have never used the parking brake on the current axle so I don't plan on messing with it on the new one. There are people that have done it in the RBV axle swap section.

Ranger setup (how I am going to do it):
2915150065_medium.jpg


Explorer setup:
2915150066_medium.jpg
 
the goal is to NOT lock up the tires, locked up tires don't stop a vehicle (hence the creation of antilock brakes), tires that decelerate in a controllable manner slow down a vehicle faster.
 
the goal is to NOT lock up the tires, locked up tires don't stop a vehicle (hence the creation of antilock brakes), tires that decelerate in a controllable manner slow down a vehicle faster.

A very simple solution to that is to not mash the brake pedel everytime you need to stop. Use your brain not a weakly set up braking system to slow your truck down.

A braking system that cannot lock up the tires is hard to judge if it is really working right, are they stopping the vehicle in a what some deem a controlled manner or are they simply being over powered?

Even a truck with ABS will chirp the tires as the system is working to slow the vehicle.
 

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