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replacement leaf spring question.


racsan

Well-Known Member
TRS 20th Anniversary
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Aug 17, 2007
Messages
5,502
City
central ohio
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine
2.5 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
Tire Size
235/70/16
My credo
the grey-t escape
my drivers side rear spring needs replacing, ive found my local 'yard sells leaf spring sets for $40/set. im thinking i should go ahead & change out both sides, what with the differance in leaf-counts & gvwr ratings, unless i would find another 5040 gvwr ranger, just buying one spring pack would have things terribly unbalanced. id rather buy new, but new im looking at 100-140 per spring pack. the good news is that my spring hangers are only 2-3 years old, the springs on my truck now i put new bushings in when i did the hangers, but i seriously doubt i would be able to press them out to re-use. is my thinking correct that i should only replace leaf packs in pairs, or would i just be wasting time & effort with the side that is still good?
 
Is it is fixable? My buddy had his fixed and re-arched on his Ranger for around 100 bucks, labor included.
 
well, ive got the "new" springs on, was a tougher job than i thought it would be, i had my bushings changed out 3 years back when i replaced the spring hangers, and i used anti-seize, but only 1 bolt would come out, had to torch the others. then i couldnt locally source 9/16 bolts! ended up fining some 14mm ones, just a touch smaller. and while my original spring were indeed damaged, esp the drivers side, i do have a bent frame, i still had to leave out the right side rear 2-1/2" block or that side would be 3" higher at the wheelwell. i can also see where the drivers side pack rides on the helper leaf (these are 3-leaf packs, with the 3rd being a helper/overload leaf, factory issue) and the passenger side isnt using the 3rd leaf at all. plus going around right turns the right tire slips easily, it wont if you try when making a left. and wet pavement? its like driving on ice, im considering a locker as i doubt the frame twist can be corrected, i cant see it, but i know it must be based on all ive observed. and yes, i did switch the sides of my used springs and put the former left side on my right & vice versa. used all new bushings, not really any option, the torch is your best freind here! good thing its a 4wd or winter driving might be impossible. i might still have to retire it from road usage depending on how it does do this winter. my body panels line up and everything, what initially happened was it went through a deep (but not very wide) ditch at a angle at about 40 mph (guessing on the speed) hit l.f. corner first, bent the drivers side axle beam so bad the front diff leaked afterwards. (yes, pay for drivers ed! it does pay for itself...grrr!) needless to say, i havent had my daughter behind the wheel again, it seems to want to pull to the left when accelerating and to the right when braking. i can deal with that, but a new driver, not such a good idea. only other vehicle is a '97 blazer with almost 200K miles and a sloppy steering box, may find a $500 neon or something for her. i am glad that i didnt order heavy-duty new springs for $140 per side, chances are if i take this ranger out of service i'll get another and use the old one for parts, dont think i want to get into swapping everything over onto a "new" frame.
 
If it's not the main plate that's broken (with the spring eyes) just call up your local suspension shop. They should have replacement leaves in stock.

I work at one of those "local" places. For a 60" uncut spring with no hole, you're looking at $60 + 1.50 (center bolt) + $25 (2 u-bolts)
 

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