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Replaced drum and disk brake pads... Some questions


caliskier

Active Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2007
Messages
31
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Manual
I did all four brakes on my 94 B3000 2X4, replaced the calipers in the front as well. Blead the brake system and took it out for a test. Here is what I noticed:

1. Peddle presses down with more resistance as you press further. Thought this was ok, was not sure.
2. When I apply normal brakeing pressure the vehicle seems to act fine without any skidding, Harder stop, (not pannic) the left front wheel locks up, others don't. What would cause this?
3. How can I tell if the drum brakes are working correctly? Thought this might be the cause of "2". The car does stop very well in reverse hard or soft with no skidding. Parking brake seems to work fine.

Thanks for your help
 
I did all four brakes on my 94 B3000 2X4, replaced the calipers in the front as well. Blead the brake system and took it out for a test. Here is what I noticed:

1. Peddle presses down with more resistance as you press further. Thought this was ok, was not sure.
2. When I apply normal brakeing pressure the vehicle seems to act fine without any skidding, Harder stop, (not pannic) the left front wheel locks up, others don't. What would cause this?
3. How can I tell if the drum brakes are working correctly? Thought this might be the cause of "2". The car does stop very well in reverse hard or soft with no skidding. Parking brake seems to work fine.

Thanks for your help

1, normal.
2, not properly bled lines could do this. bleed right front and re-try.
3, too hard to explain, have someone who knows brakes check them out, they will probably need adjusting.
 
Did you turn your rotors? If the surface was groved, it is going to grab the new pads. I never change pads without turning the drums and rotors. Doing half the job is just that, half the job. Be careful till you get a pro to look.
 
+1 to the first two replies.

As for the drum brakes... Set the parking brake 5 or 10 times to get them adjusted right. Then, if you are really think they aren't working right, jack up the rear end, throw it in gear, get up to speed, and slam on the brakes. The rear wheels will stop, or they won't.
 
+1 to the first two replies.

As for the drum brakes... Set the parking brake 5 or 10 times to get them adjusted right. Then, if you are really think they aren't working right, jack up the rear end, throw it in gear, get up to speed, and slam on the brakes. The rear wheels will stop, or they won't.

lol, i love your awesome ways of testing things.

:icon_thumby:

ill rep ya for that one lol
 
Did you turn your rotors? If the surface was groved, it is going to grab the new pads. I never change pads without turning the drums and rotors. Doing half the job is just that, half the job. Be careful till you get a pro to look.

Actually on that side I replaced the rotor, brand new one, the driver side had a good one and I did not need to replace it, but i did not get it turned either.

Thanks
 
+1 to the first two replies.

As for the drum brakes... Set the parking brake 5 or 10 times to get them adjusted right. Then, if you are really think they aren't working right, jack up the rear end, throw it in gear, get up to speed, and slam on the brakes. The rear wheels will stop, or they won't.

Thanks, thats a good idea, however I will do it with the front of the car facing out of the garage
 
Actually on that side I replaced the rotor, brand new one, the driver side had a good one and I did not need to replace it, but i did not get it turned either.

Thanks

Through my experiences it seems new rotors and pads need a little bit of of break in time and heat cycles to work normally, new or just turned, either way they need broke in. You should get the old rotor turned/resurfaced.
 
Only pulling on the new rotor side? If I were you I know what I would do.
Put all new parts on the other side also. Seems like it may be the only front one working hard so it pulls enough to lock up. Problem is the side without the new rotor, if you ask me that side is sleeping.:D
 
If you really don't want to replace the used rotor, AT LEAST take some 120 grit sandpaper and put some cross-hatching on both sides. Takes about ten minutes with the rotor removed, sitting in your lap. That will help the new pads break in and match the stopping efficiency of the new rotor. You can't expect new pads to "bed in" on a worn smooth used rotor, which is why "turning" is recommended.
 

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