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replace sparkplugs ???


lonewaya

Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2010
Messages
11
City
Ca
Vehicle Year
1996
Transmission
Manual
[Whats the best way to change the sparks plugs on the left bank with all the intake and other in the way??????
 
I got 175,000 on it now and I looked at one on the right blank n it shows a little foul on it, i can get to the right bank no problem but the left bank looks like a bitch to get to them to check them to see how foul they are and wonder whats the best way to get to them not use to these newer style double bank plugs for a 4 banger I am use to the old stly I just changed out the water pump n stat on it and that was a blast taking out everything to get to them!!!! I still got to change the heater core and I see thats going to be a bitch to do
 
Use a long pair of wire pullers, and a long extension.
You can access the #1 plug in the left bank easily, as well as the #5. Its 3 &4 that are a little tricky. to get to # 4 step on the driver side and look between the split in the tube on the intake. Where it splits off into a "Y". You can access the plug and wire right through there. To get to # 3 I believe you just have to remove the throttle linkage guard ( plastic cove rover the throttle body. its only one bolt.) and you can see and access the plug and wire on #3.
You will have to work slowly and carefully with the wire pullers but if you have a good long skinny pair they will work just fine. You will have to line the boot up with the plug with your fingers on 4 & 3 before you push it on with the plug wire pullers.
Its not bad just tedious. I did mine on both sides in about 40 minutes and that included gaping the new plugs.
Just try not to over think it. Just get in there tools in hand and you'll figure it out easy enough.

You changed thew timing belt while you were there doing the pump to right ? Same amount of work and worth doing while you have the fan and drive belt off....
There is an access panel inside the cab to get to your heater core. After you get the hoses off and the panel cover off pull the heater core back and down to get it out.
I suggest putting paper towels and a pan to fit under there so you don't get coolant all over and have to smell it for ever in the cab.
 
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Use a long pair of wire pullers, and a long extension.
You can access the #1 plug in the left bank easily, as well as the #5. Its 3 &4 that are a little tricky. to get to # 4 step on the driver side and look between the split in the tube on the intake. Where it splits off into a "Y". You can access the plug and wire right through there. To get to # 3 I believe you just have to remove the throttle linkage guard ( plastic cove rover the throttle body. its only one bolt.) and you can see and access the plug and wire on #3.
You will have to work slowly and carefully with the wire pullers but if you have a good long skinny pair they will work just fine. You will have to line the boot up with the plug with your fingers on 4 & 3 before you push it on with the plug wire pullers.
Its not bad just tedious. I did mine on both sides in about 40 minutes and that included gaping the new plugs.
Just try not to over think it. Just get in there tools in hand and you'll figure it out easy enough.

You changed thew timing belt while you were there doing the pump to right ? Same amount of work and worth doing while you have the fan and drive belt off....
There is an access panel inside the cab to get to your heater core. After you get the hoses off and the panel cover off pull the heater core back and down to get it out.
I suggest putting paper towels and a pan to fit under there so you don't get coolant all over and have to smell it for ever in the cab.

95+ you have to pull the dash to change the heater core. to channge the plugs you need a few extensions a wobble helpps and YOU NUST USE THE OEM MOTORCRAFT OR AUTOLITE WIRES
 
95+ you have to pull the dash to change the heater core. to channge the plugs you need a few extensions a wobble helpps and YOU NUST USE THE OEM MOTORCRAFT OR AUTOLITE WIRES

Hahahaha, I used the Motorcraft wires on my truck.... even paid extra for them. They were crap from day one. They would arc, and I could hear it pop through the radio. I just kinda dealt with the annoyance for a year, then took them back off and they were falling apart as i removed them (hardened, brittle)... Exchanged them at the store for some Borg Warner cables, and they have been good to go.

Personally, I would recommend avoiding Motorcraft wire sets...
 
YZ250 you are only the 2nd person in about 10000 posts that trashed autolite/motorcraft. Did the BW have the hooks? Let me guess you a rep for Borg Warner!
 
YZ250 you are only the 2nd person in about 10000 posts that trashed autolite/motorcraft. Did the BW have the hooks? Let me guess you a rep for Borg Warner!

I am definitely not a BW rep...

The borg warner wires had big rubber boots instead of the plastic clips. They pop on and hold pretty tight, and they look like they'd block out water really well. I would have rather seen the plastic clips, but I feel pretty confident with these.

Or were you talking about the big gray plastic boot puller/install hooks? The BW wires do have those in the appropriate spots.

I can't say anything about the durability/longevity of them, since I just installed them this spring, but they do appear to be higher quality than the motorcraft wires I had.

Now I wish I had taken pics to prove the experience I had with the motorcraft wires... I didn't realize people would be skeptical about it!

On another note, I don't have anything bad to say about the motorcraft spark plugs...

ETA: BTW, replying to the original poster, when I did my plugs and wires I just removed the intake, which was easy.... except I learned the hard way that the EGR gas tube isn't real strong. I snapped it off down near the exhaust manifold... but for the low, low price of 60 dollars a local dealer had a new one in stock... Ouch.
 
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Motorcraft wire sets suck for me too.....
Plain Jane autozone wires do just fine for me.
 

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