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Rephasing a driveshaft


Parts store u-joints don't last very long. Even the good ones, Moog, Precision, Duralast Gold etc are mediocre quality.

I started buying Spicer u-joints from a place in town here instead, they are not only better quality, but ironically cheaper. $8 for a greasable 1310 style u-joint as opposed to $15-20 for a "good" one at a parts store.
 
Another year hopefully is all I need...

I do have Spicers in my D35 though.
 
Parts store u-joints don't last very long. Even the good ones, Moog, Precision, Duralast Gold etc are mediocre quality.

I started buying Spicer u-joints from a place in town here instead, they are not only better quality, but ironically cheaper. $8 for a greasable 1310 style u-joint as opposed to $15-20 for a "good" one at a parts store.

Even Spicer has cheap U-joints. I always try to buy the Spicer Performance U-joints if I can find them. They are more expensive but I think they are worth it.
 
The place I get Spicers from has two different styles (of 1310's, anyway...) One is greasable and the other isn't. The non greasable ones are called "super strength" or something like that, supposedly stronger because they're not drilled for grease channels. Had great luck with the standard grade so far.
 
damn thing must be nearly perfect in working angle.

DSCN8608_zpsao5a9ppm.jpg







in this pic it is obviously out of phase, looks like more then an 1/8 inch the pic.

but with only 1 cap smoked like that i tend to think it was bound up or egged on installation. te 1210 style little guys are stronger then most think. the lack of rust eliminates the idea of intrusion from the zerk.

are you sure you never pulled it apart?
 
They retubed it when I did my engine swap. When it was there they decided to change one cross (the one that died) The front cross (the top one in the pic without the flange) I have never ever touched. It is a Spicer and the guy that had my truck before me was a hack so I am pretty sure it is original.

IMO when they retubed the driveshaft they didn't get it lined up right when they welded it back together.

There is a little bit of vibration... it is hardly an instrument of precision. I always thought it was the mud tires...
 
did you pull it off and see if you could turn it one tooth or does it have the fat bastard line up tooth?

i have cut off wheeled those a time or two


had to. its hack but it worked. most after market joints suk. so thats typical.
 

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