Removing vac and emissions on 83 ranger?

[Raser13]

Hey guys and gals, not really my truck. But my brothers new daily. It's an 83 2.3L 4X4 with manual lockers up front.

The prior owner has already swapped it back to a standard carb for us so that much is already done. My main queastion is our state doesn't require emissions on something this old, what vacuum and emmisions cr@p can we shed from under the hood?

Besides the carb this thing appears bone stock. Just want to remove as many future headaches and problems as we can. You can barely see the engine through all the hoses and wires. Thanks for any help.

 

[Raser13]

Here's pics of what we have.

 

[Mark_88]

Howdy and welcome to TRS~!

Power steering would be my first suggestion to go...lol

Otherwise...maybe the air pump if there is one on the other side...but there is not much other than that...and maybe all the vacuum tubes that are under the intake manifold...but I couldn't see any from those pics...

Is there something on the passenger side fender? I think the earlier ones had an egr valve or something over there but have only seen one or two of that vintage.

 

[Raser13]

Here's what the passenger side looks like.

Can some one tell me what all that vacuum stuff does that's under the black box thingy in the last two pics?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If the computer is not working pretty much everything goes away. How many wires are coming out the distributor? Does it have the vacuum advance? The only vauum you need is the vacuum advance for the distributor should come off of the carb, brake booster and PCV valve. Everything else gets capped off at the engine. The vacuum solenoids and hoses and computer harness goes by by. The duraspark module should have two connectors four wire and a two wire. I actually got my distributor harness from a 1984 2.0 ranger. Three wires to the distributor and the green wire to coil neg. Just get or make a plate for the egr. Others here know alot more how to make it real simple either duraspark or HEI 4 wire module for the ignition and a three wire distributor with a vacuum advance.

 

[enjr44]

I don't know what you can get rid of; but, you need to add a filter to that tube on the oil filler cap. That tube used to go to the air filter and is the source of air for the PCV system. Open like that it will suck dirt into the crankcase (and, no you can't just plug it!!!).

Something like this:
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=RU-5162

 

[RayInStl]

Hello!

Hey guys,

I'm the brother. It's my truck. Thanks for the info. We just so happen to have an HEI module off of a Chevy 350. Is the V8 module the proper one? My internet research says yes, just want to make sure before I go removing everything!

Rog (Raser13) was partly right about the carb. It was replaced by the previous owner, but it's just a rebuilt Carter YF feedback carb, just like the one that was there before. I hear they don't like being disconnected from the computer and are a finicky carb to begin with. So we're heading up to the salvage yard tomorrow to look for a good, old-fashioned, dumb carb. Any suggestions on what to look for?

I'm fine with a 1v carb, but if these 2.3L's run stronger on a 2v I'd like to go that route. I've never used a 1v to 2v adapter. Do they work ok, or is it worth the extra cost to get a 2v intake? I was surprised that there is such a strong aftermarket for this engine! Especially performance parts. I'm not looking for a tire shredding monster. Just something that moves out of it's own way and is maybe a little "peppy". Reliability, easy of repair, and decent mileage are my main concerns.

I've been reading through the tech docs. You guys have quite the knowledge base here! Thanks again for the replies. You guys rock!

Ray

 

[Mark_88]

Howdy Ray,

The 2bbl carb is better, but I would suggest going with a proper intake manifold designed for the bigger carb. If you happen to run across a 1978 Mustang II with the 2.3, you can snag a very nice intake and maybe even the Motorcraft 5200 carb...a great combo but not necessarily the best. Some say the round port intake (like on your engine unless it was changed) is not a good match with the oval port intakes, but I put one on my 2.0 head and it ran good...

The Weber carbs were very popular (32/36) but expensive if new...as well as the Motorcraft 2150 and a few others that were common on these engines (or common upgrades). In fact, any carb new or rebuilt can be expensive...and then you need to get the intake or even an adapter...or both...

Not that expense should be a limiting factor when building your truck...but junkyards are getting fewer and fewer of these trucks...maybe your area has more, but that might not last...there used to be half a dozen yards around my area that all carried plenty of these trucks...now they've almost all but disappeared.

Anyway...there are more knowledgeable people on here and plenty of good reading by people who have upgraded from the 1bbl to 2bbl...in fact there was a recent post by colefouche13 about removing the wiring you are looking at...not sure if he posted a follow up about what he did to acheive that but worth a search...

And many others...search on the Weber 32/36 and that should get you a bunch more reading...or the 2150...so much on here to look at...but your search at the junkyard should focus on the 2.3 and maybe you can score an intake as well...

I have been trying to sell my intake and carb from a 1978 Mustang II but haven't had any serious buyers yet...check e-bay because they also have loads of stuff for these engines...

 

[RayInStl]

Thanks Mark. I picked up a GM 4 pin HEI module in the junk yard today so I can get rid of the duraspark brain. I'm going back tomorrow to help my cousin get a tail light for her sentra, so I'll see if they have any mustang II's, though I won't hold my breath. Did anything else come with the two barrel intake? Is the 2.3 that was in some fox body mustangs the same as that in the ranger?

If I can't find one on the cheap, I might be interested in yours. What would you have to have for it?

I got it running better between last night and this morning. The mixture screw at the base of the carb was waaaaay far out. I think that's the reason it was running so rich. I also found and fixed some vacuum leaks.

It runs "ok" now. It idles ok, but is rougher under load. I don't think the vacuum advance is working. Ford's placement of the distributor doesn't make things very easy to work on.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Connect the vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and watch the timing marks. It should advance the timing 10 degrees. You can even try running it that way and see how she performs.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Be sure and mount the hei 4wire to a good heat sync like for a computer processor and put the heat grease to transfer heat they last alot longer.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/ign...y-trick-hei-module-inside-duraspark-case.html

 

[tomw]

Instead of bumping your post count with one-liners, why not edit the message you wrote 5 minutes earlier... all part of the same topic and idea, no?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Instead of bumping your post count with one-liners, why not edit the message you wrote 5 minutes earlier... all part of the same topic and idea, no?

If your talking to me I guess it is just being lazy. My question to you is how does this post relate to the topic?

 

[RayInStl]

HEI Installed!

I got the HEI installed and working! I have also disconnected the stock computer and much of the vacuum lines. Both the wiring and vacuum lines were in terrible shape. I think there had been a short n the wiring at some point because many of the connector's insulation was very toasty looking. She's running a LOT better now. Next up is to find that pesky oil leak.

Ray

*EDIT*

Forgot da pix!