Removing the MC

[LittleHorse]

I'm not fancy enough for the pump either. I was just dreading bleeding mine and started looking for tools on the internet. I found a pump that costs as much as a brand new, pre-bled MC with line.

 

[bigalpha]

I'm going to bleed it to the best of my abilities and hope to god it works.

 

[fastpakr]

You don't need a second person. As long as the bleed hose is moving upwards and the end stays immersed, you can just open the valve and leave it open while you cycle the pedal.

 

[bigalpha]

Then I must be hella confused.

I was going to open the bleed valve on the top of the clutch and flush the system through that. If I do that, then I need to make sure that the reservoir doesn't go dry again.

Or am I wrong in my thinking?

 

[fastpakr]

No, you'll need to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't go dry. That's why I generally use a long line from the slave to the master - that ensures that the fluid doesn't just disappear. However, you can certainly use a separate container if that's more convenient. Just find a way to make sure it stays above the slave so air naturally flows into it, and watch the fluid level in the master.

 

[bigalpha]

Oh gotcha.

Make sure the reservoir and MC stay above the SC.

 

[bigalpha]

When you push the plunger in on the MC, it'll push fluid out the bleeder valve.
When you pull the plunger out on the MC, won't it pull air in?

 

[fastpakr]

It may pull back slightly, but primarily it will pull more fluid from the reservoir. As long as you keep the bleed line immersed and pointed up from the bleed valve it's not an issue at all.

 

[bigalpha]

Update (sorry for taking so long).

I got a long tube and stretched it from bleeder valve to reservoir. Cracked the valve and pumped the clutch. Added fluid when reservoir got low. I kept pumping the pedal for about 15 minutes. All the fluid that came out was in good shape. Maybe the PO did something with it and didn't flush correctly?

Now I have clutch again. Pedal still disengages about half-way down the stroke. But, no more grinding or 'hitting a brick wall'. Since I didn't remove the MC out of the firewall to ensure all the air was removed, I'm very, very satisfied with the outcome.

I'll pull the MC at some point and do it 'properly', but for now, I'm just stoked that it shifts gears and the clutch isn't a goner.

Still haven't noticed any leaks, and the level in the reservoir is still holding steady. I'll keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't start losing fluid.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[agish]

Still working good?

I think I'm having the same issue on my 94 Ranger. How is your working? Still easy to shift and get in and out of gear? I'm thinking of pulling the MC and bench bleeding it, but would rather do the hose from bottom to top if possible.
Please advise...

Thanks,
Aron

 

[bigalpha]

Well, I've gotten rid of the Ranger since I last posted (bought a Jeep Comanche).

However, I did bleed the MC while it was on the firewall and the clutch came back to life.

As described earlier:

1. Attach hose to bleeder valve on clutch
2. Run it into the fluild cylinder (mounted on the fender)
3. Slightly cracked the bleeder valve
4. Pumped the clutch
5. Checked fluid level
6. Repeat, add fluid when necessary
7. Pedal became firm fairly quickly
8. Close bleeder valve
9. Remove hose
10. Enjoy

If you crack the bleeder valve too much, you won't be able to notice the stiffness in the pedal. The clutch came back and worked as it should; though it still wasn't 100%. It was about 85%.

All in all, the process took 10-15 minutes by myself.

 

[AllanD]

The Clutch master on a '95-up doesn't bolt in.

It's a "Twist lock" munting into an ear on the pedal bracket.

You only need to turn it about 45degrees to make it release.

No, I don't know offhand which way to turn it...

AD

 

[agish]

Thanks for the update. I did just as you listed. My clutch is already at 85%, so I guess that is what I'm fighting now. Not sure where to go from here, I think I post a new thread.

Thanks again....

 

[bigalpha]

Thanks for the update. I did just as you listed. My clutch is already at 85%, so I guess that is what I'm fighting now. Not sure where to go from here, I think I post a new thread.

Thanks again....

Yes, AD is exactly correct. I didn't feel like fighting it, so I did it the lazy way.

If you're trying to get your clutch to 100%, completely bleed the system properly.

If that doesn't work, then move on to more in depth issues, such as worn clutch.