Removing stock headunit

[FlyingFatass]

i just read up on my tweeter, turns out it has a built in 6db crossover

 

[Insanejughead]

What do you know! You figured out something on your own!



I'm so proud *tear*.

 

[koda6966]

I strongly recommend the DIN tools as opposed to coat hangars, nails, etc.

It's one tool I can guarantee you'll use at least twice.

Anyway, from the looks of it your going to need to remove part of your dash anyway. It's overlapping the radio I think. My 93 had the same style dash but someone swapped my Radio with a taurus one, so it didn't overlap at all. Either that was the reason or they updated that feature in 93.

 

[FlyingFatass]

Well I removed that part of the dash and got the DIN tools. Did just like the instructions told me to, but every time the tools just pop back out. Can't get the damn thing out and I don't want to have to remove the whole dash to do it >_<

 

[Insanejughead]

Sledge...



Nah, didn't the DIN tools 'click' when you pushed them in so far? I thought they were supposed to click into place and that's when you push them apart and pull towards you at the same time...

 

[koda6966]

Yeah that's how they work. Sometimes they can go in too far and not work though, be careful of that. It's gotta be just the right depth. You could try wiggling the suckers up and down.

Worse case scenario it's one of those pesky screw type holders, like what my Mazda had. That would mean you'd have to take more of the dash off.

You probably have to wiggle and keep trying.

 

[backroad101]

buy from a store, carefully unpackage, use it, then return it.

lol

.

 

[FlyingFatass]

Ok well with some strong motivation (flathead screwdriver). It seems that it uses a slider bar that this plastic peice on the back hooks on to. Since it didn't seem like anything else held it in place, I just attached that plastic piece to the back of the new HU.

I checked out the wiring diagrams in the tech section and I think I figured out the wiring from the old plugs to the new one.

I also have a blue cable with a small plug on it, it's labeled as the "system remote control", and in the diagram it has it running to an amp. My amps dont have any mention of this input in their diagrams, so should i just leave this wire alone?

 

[RangerFabWorks]

that is the remote turn on wire for your amps. its blue with a white stripe.

your amps should have pos. neg. amp turn on labeled on the side.

 

[FlyingFatass]

that is the remote turn on wire for your amps. its blue with a white stripe.

your amps should have pos. neg. amp turn on labeled on the side.

So it turns the amps on when I get power to the HU from the ignition?

And since I'm in the process of asking these little questions, theres this little switch on my 2 channel amp that chooses either "low pass" or "full range". What exactly is the difference between the two?

the sub amp also, has this switch, as well as a bass boost switch and one that choses input sensitivity.

 

[RangerFabWorks]

So it turns the amps on when I get power to the HU from the ignition?

The blue wire sends a signal to the amp when the radio is turned on. so the amp is only one when the stereo is on. its different then the wire that powers the stereo with the key on.

And since I'm in the process of asking these little questions, theres this little switch on my 2 channel amp that chooses either "low pass" or "full range". What exactly is the difference between the two?

full pass allows all the sound frequencys to pass through the amp on the speakers. low pass only allows bass, and is used for subwoofers.
the sub amp also, has this switch, as well as a bass boost switch and one that choses input sensitivity.

again, used for subwoofers. bass boost allows how much bass you want the subs to put out. and input sensitivity is something found on cheap amps. it really doesnt do a whole lot. its really a gimmick to make you think your "fine tuning" your amp. worry about the bass, gains, and frequency settings. those are the ones that determine the sound you want.

 

[FlyingFatass]

again, used for subwoofers. bass boost allows how much bass you want the subs to put out. and input sensitivity is something found on cheap amps. it really doesnt do a whole lot. its really a gimmick to make you think your "fine tuning" your amp. worry about the bass, gains, and frequency settings. those are the ones that determine the sound you want.

Thaaaaaaaanks

 

[RangerFabWorks]

no prob ffa lol

 

[Daven]

I have a 1990 ranger with the old cassette headunit pictured below. I'm going to be replacing with a pioneer HU. I need to know the proper way to remove it. What tools will I need? I also have a new harness that should work with the new HU. I'm going to be running it to two amps (A 2ch and a mono sub amp). Besides having to run the RCA plugs through a splitter, is there anything special I'll need to do as far as wiring (from the HU to the amps) goes?

Do not... i repeat... DO NOT try to rip it out without using the little holes like u need to. I tried this in my '89 and could not get it out. ended up wrecking my dash because by the time i looked it up it was too wrecked to do it haha.

 

[FlyingFatass]

Do not... i repeat... DO NOT try to rip it out without using the little holes like u need to. I tried this in my '89 and could not get it out. ended up wrecking my dash because by the time i looked it up it was too wrecked to do it haha.

Well I was able to get it out (the right way finally). I kinda tore up the face plate, but I didn't plan on putting it back in anyway, so all is well.