Front Fuel Leak 1993 Ranger 4.0 XLT Auto

[Angry Possum]

Same as remodeling a house.

No doubt.

 

[Angry Possum]

I may cut those lower aluminum lines with a multi tool or a Dremel. Your thoughts?

 

[Angry Possum]

@Curious Hound @lil_Blue_Ford When I was fumbling around with the old fuel lines yesterday, I moved the evap line slightly and it broke into pieces, (these three lines run together in the frame rail). Further, I'm assuming the evap hose wasnt functioning for a long while. Should I run a new evap line as well to the canister from the fuel tank? Do I need it still, apparently its been inoperable for a long time and the truck had no issues, check engine light etc. Your thoughts?

 

[Angry Possum]

It is a lot of work. But it's not complicated and doesn't require expensive tools. Well within the realm of DIY projects. As stated, it's much easier with the bed off. I've always done them with the bed on.

And for an educational tidbit, that is the front spring hangar. The shackle hangar is at the rear and has a shackle that pivots between the hangar and the spring eye.

For removing the rivets, I use a cutoff wheel to grind slots in the rivet heads. That makes it easier to chisel off the remaing bits. Then I punch the remaining part through with a hammer and punch. I think they are either 1/2" or 9/16" diameter. Sometimes, I drill a 7/16" hole in the rivet to weaken it and make it easier to drive out. The punch I use is home made from a piece of rebar with one end ground down to slightly less than 1/2". Don't skimp on hammer size. Little hammers won't get the job done.

Official rivet removal tools at the Curious Hound kennel.
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Thanks for this . I just ordered a shackle hangar, the rubber piece that goes thru the shackle, and the shackle bolt. I definitely can do this. I recently purchased a HF 7 amp Grinder. It worked pretty well knocking off the heads of the bed bolts. This is very doable....

 

[Uncle Gump]

Assuming it didn't function is just an assumption. It likely was working... and it won't now.

That line is just for fuel vapors... no liquid... no pressure. I would repair it. If you don't... you will likely smell fuel... could set a check engine light and will mess with fuel strategy.

I would probably use two pieces of rubber line to piece in some nylon line to correct the broken line.

 

[Angry Possum]

Assuming it didn't function is just an assumption. It likely was working... and it won't now.

That line is just for fuel vapors... no liquid... no pressure. I would repair it. If you don't... you will likely smell fuel... could set a check engine light and will mess with fuel strategy.

I would probably use two pieces of rubber line to piece in some nylon line to correct the broken line.

Thanks for your input. I will most likely repair it, as it seems like an easy fix even though that line was shot and most likely not functioning. Maybe I'll get better gas mileage now .

 

[Curious Hound]

@Curious Hound @lil_Blue_Ford When I was fumbling around with the old fuel lines yesterday, I moved the evap line slightly and it broke into pieces, (these three lines run together in the frame rail). Further, I'm assuming the evap hose wasnt functioning for a long while. Should I run a new evap line as well to the canister from the fuel tank? Do I need it still, apparently its been inoperable for a long time and the truck had no issues, check engine light etc. Your thoughts?

Like Gump said, it should be fixed. It's a minor thing. But the system will be happier, whether you know it or not.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

@Curious Hound @lil_Blue_Ford When I was fumbling around with the old fuel lines yesterday, I moved the evap line slightly and it broke into pieces, (these three lines run together in the frame rail). Further, I'm assuming the evap hose wasnt functioning for a long while. Should I run a new evap line as well to the canister from the fuel tank? Do I need it still, apparently its been inoperable for a long time and the truck had no issues, check engine light etc. Your thoughts?

So, my green Ranger, the EVAP line was rotted to pieces. Oddly, no EVAP codes (should have come up as a large leak). Not the first time I’ve repaired EVAP lines. Since the system is supposed to be monitored by the computer, line size technically can matter. I buy aluminum line usually in the correct size (my F-150 has 3/8”, green Ranger has 1/2”, my Choptop has 1/4” Ni-Copper). Just get rubber fuel line (preferably fuel injection line because it’s more ethanol resistant than standard fuel line) to make up the ends.

Technically, you have to have it for emissions even if they don’t do emissions inspections where you live. The curious is why didn’t the computer complain about the leak.

 

[SenorNoob]

My 92 computer only balks if the purge valve is missing. It's not capable of monitoring more than that.

 

[Angry Possum]

So, my green Ranger, the EVAP line was rotted to pieces. Oddly, no EVAP codes (should have come up as a large leak). Not the first time I’ve repaired EVAP lines. Since the system is supposed to be monitored by the computer, line size technically can matter. I buy aluminum line usually in the correct size (my F-150 has 3/8”, green Ranger has 1/2”, my Choptop has 1/4” Ni-Copper). Just get rubber fuel line (preferably fuel injection line because it’s more ethanol resistant than standard fuel line) to make up the ends.

Technically, you have to have it for emissions even if they don’t do emissions inspections where you live. The curious is why didn’t the computer complain about the leak.

Yes this is exactly what I was thinking. This vapor line had to be dysfunctional for a long while now, no check engine light, no vapor smell, basically no effect on the truck.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

My 92 computer only balks if the purge valve is missing. It's not capable of monitoring more than that.

You bring up a good point. The older trucks don’t really monitor much.

The OBD2 stuff (95+) is supposed to monitor for leaks I believe. I know for sure that the 00 and later do monitor for leaks, so I’m pretty sure all of the OBD2 trucks are supposed to.

 

[Angry Possum]

Ok, so after attempting to install the fittings, I discovered that the 5/16 6AN fittings are the correct fittings for the fuel filter, both sides of the fuel filter are 5/16.

The 3/8 fuel fitting is too large for the fuel filter connection, you must use the 5/16 fitting for the fuel filter connections on both sides, in and out.

I'll need to order another set of the 5/16 fittings now to finish, as I'm short 2 of them, I'll need 1 more for the fuel filter and 1 more for the return line that's coming off the fuel tank sending unit.

Note: The 3/8 AN fitting works perfectly from the tank sending unit (supply) to the fuel filter, as the supply line off the fuel tank sending unit is bigger. Who knew and why? It really doesn't make any sense.

 

[Angry Possum]

And yet another day for me to get these fuel lines hooked up, , I'm waiting for the 5/16 fittings to come tomorrow. They are $7 for two on Amazon. Dam I'm missing my Ranger.

Here's the link. https://a.co/d/0j7RPicC

 

[Angry Possum]

Off topic, Your thoughts, with the topper or without? Believe it or not, I actually love the top, however my kids disagree.

 

[Angry Possum]

As for the evap line, I may just use a good rubber line from the tank to the charcoal filter. I'm unsure as of now. Your thoughts?