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Removing rivets


alwaysFlOoReD

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Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
15,154
City
Airdrie, Alberta, Canada
Vehicle Year
'06, '11
Engine
3.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
Original Poster: AlwaysFlOoReD

Difficulty: 2 out of 10

Time to install: varies


Disclaimer: The Ranger Station.com, The Ranger Station.com Staff, nor the original poster are responsible for you doing this modification to your vehicle. By doing this modification and following this how-to you, the installer, take full responsibility if anything is damaged or messed up. If you have questions, feel free to PM the original poster or ask in the appropriate section of The Ranger Station.com forums.

I'm editing this post to show others method's of rivet removal;

alwaysFlOoReD-grinder
Grind an X in the head of the rivet, I used a 4.5" angle grinder with a new disc first, then switched to an old disc to get in deeper with out touching the frame too much. You may not have to, depending where on the frame you're working;
IMG_0734.jpg

IMG_0735.jpg

I use a round,flat [like a pin punch] punch and a 2lb hammer to remove whats left of the rivet;
IMG_0736.jpg

Don't worry if you don't get every last little piece, you should still be able to drive the rivet through to the other side.
IMG_0738.jpg


B&G_Automotive-torch, air hammer
"For those since they are countersunk I would use a cutting torch to burn them out."
"For ones on a flat surface I just use a chisel bit in my Snap-On PH3050A air hammer and pound them right off without even cutting them up first."

twoII86-drill
"Drill the center out about 3/4 of the way with a 5/32 drill bit, then up size that hole with a drill bit that is the same size as the rivet. then take a punch that size place partially in the hole and pry/pop off the head of the hammer [rivet?] away."

Daringo-drill and air hammer
http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...ad.php?t=77652

Hope this helps,
Richard
 
Last edited:
For those since they are countersunk I would use a cutting torch to burn them out, that would keep from cuttin into the frame like that. For ones on a flat surface I just use a chisel bit in my Snap-On PH3050A air hammer and pound them right off without even cutting them up first, it cuts through them like a blunt object being smacked with a skyscraper. :icon_thumby: The rivets are not very hard and can been drilled / cut very easy.
 
i deal with rivets ALL the time and the correct way 2 do this is dill the center out about 3/4 of the way with a 5/32 drill bit then up size that hole with a drill bit that is the same size as the rivet. then take a punch that size place partialy in the hole and pry/pop of the head the hammer away and ur done sonds like alot of work but dont risk cuting frame or messing ur the temper on the steel of the frame
 
drillnpunch...drillnpunch....fast...painless
 
X-ing them with a disc works well when they areon a flat. Not those. Burning them is great. Drilling is good if you have cobalt, or maybe titanium-coated bits and lots WD40 to keep it cool. The cheap shittie high-speed things will drive you bugshit.
 
I posted this because there was a lot of requests for this info recently and thought it would make good tech info. The more options people know about the better. I've tried them all at least once and this is the way for me in most cases. I don't think nicking the frame is going to lead to any stress cracks, but if I'm wrong I'll post it up. As far as temper of the frame, in the research I've done, the majority of somewhat knowledgeable people agree there is none, so if I had a torch I'd not be scared to use it. Drilling is great if you can get a straight shot at the rivet head. If I had a good air hammer and air compressor I would do that too. I would be happy to incorporate these ideas [pics would be good too]into my original post, with names, if that would make this a better working topic.
Thanks for the input,
Richard
 
thr trick to drilling steal with any drill bit( all tho cobalt or dimond are best) is slow heavy feed meaning drill slowly and press hard and u should get long curlycews instead of chips airtool oil looks best
 
As far as temper of the frame, in the research I've done, the majority of somewhat knowledgeable people agree there is none, so if I had a torch I'd not be scared to use it.

These are not heat treated. The only mention I've seen of heat treating frames is in some heavy duty trucks.
 
Wouldn't the main objective here be to provide as many ways possible to do such a task? I'm sure that there are alot of people out there who would need to remove their rivets but only have the tools to do it one of several ways. If someone doesn't have a cutting torch and cannot afford a set of good drill bits but happens to have an angle grinder with cutoff wheels just laying around then i'm sure that this method would more than suffice.
 
i agree if you dont have the tools do it how ever you can but as far as heat treatment it doesn matter if the frame was heat treated after the bend the metal comes set to a certain heat treatment and heating "COULD" cause problems not saying it will just a heads up
 
I've edited my original post to add others method's. I credited the idea to the first person to mention that method. If anyone has another method [with pics would be good] I'll be happy to include that as well [with credit, of course]. Also if anyone can provide pictures of the other methods that'd be appreciated.
Thanks,
Richard
 
ive used all of these methods tourch works the best fallowed up by drilling (with good bits) i found it helps at times to when cutting the head of the rivet off then and using a hammer and punch, to also cut the head of the rivet off the back side of the frame to..
 
I never had such an easy time as some of you make it sound. haha. I cut the head off, used an air chisel, drilled, and still ended up beating the rivets out with a 5lb sledge and a punch. I know how to swing a hammer, and it took me a good 30-40 swing per rivet.
 

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