Removing bed, bed bolts, clips

[rkneeshaw]

Just an update for everyone on this topic: For my model year ranger Ford no longer makes the 2 longer bed bolts closer to the cab, you can't get them at all, and they provide no cross reference to a different part number. you can still get the rear 4 bed bolts but the current price is about $16 per bolt (outrageous). Also the clips go for $14 EACH. So try not to mess yours up and reuse them unless you've got some cash to burn.

Requoting this very useful info:

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts - 7mm

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required. 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the boltdepot.com for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the storngest grade they had 10.9=for automotive use.

One additional thing to note is that if you do choose to get your own bolts from a hardware store using the above specs with a traditional hex head I would recommend you be sure to use the plastic bed liners. The reason I believe Ford used the tapered-head torx bolts is because a normal hex-head bolt would get severely beat up from heavy objects being loaded and unloaded from the truck bed to the point it might be nearly impossible to remove them without a torch (not a nice thought near the gas tank).

 

[fishman67]

Great post, just the exact info I was looking for! Ordered them, now just waiting so can pull them. Also soaking the clips in brake fluid. Thanks again, great post. Lee

 

[wr250rdr]

Does this apply to all rangers? When I had my bed off about a year ago I could have sworn that all 6 bolts were the same. Mine is a 94 single cab

 

[bearsrngr]

You can get the bolts from LMC part number 50-0257, long and 50-0258,short. But they are $15 each.

 

[saskbill]

Does this apply to all rangers? When I had my bed off about a year ago I could have sworn that all 6 bolts were the same. Mine is a 94 single cab

I've unbolted Ranger beds as old as 88 and as new as 98 (was looking for relatively decent bolts/clips to use on my 88 and 91, both of which were badly rusted and I destroyed some bolts/clips taking the beds off).

Every one I dealt with had the two longer bolts right behind the cab and the 4 rear bed bolts shorter (6' beds). Except one older 7' bed had the two longer in font and six shorter bolts out back. But all of them seemed the same dimensions (1.75 by 12 mm threads by 100/120 mm length) to swap between years.

By the way, thanks to the original poster(s). I saw that requoted thread awhile ago when I was looking for the die size to chase the treads on my reclaimed bolts.

 

[wr250rdr]

Interesting must have just slipped my memory