Removing and cleaning EGR?

[jmcleek]

I have 2 codes. 1 is #32 -R-EGR not controlling (83-90 2.3L and 3.8L)
I want to try to remove and clean the EGR ,I'm having a problem with the large flair nut being seized and was wandoring if someone has a way to remove, or work around it without destroing something?
The other code ,# 13 -R- cannot control rpm during low rpm test O- DC motor doesn't move (87-90 1.9L and2.3L) C- DC motor doesn't follow dashpot (87-90 1.9L-2.3L) . I assume they are reffuring to the iddle control motor. Any ideas on this would be appericiate allso. http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

John

 

[Earl43P]

I would do everything else possible before heating up that big nut to remove it. By everything else, I mean test the EGR system (http://www.tomco-inc.com/techinfo.aspx) to figure out what is wrong. EGR valves themselves rarely fail, but it is possible.

The IAC is a common issue. Remove it and clean its shaft. Once cleaned, rap it against your palm so that it makes a thwocking sound as the piston slides down the shaft against the spring. If it won't do that, clean it some more.

 

[jmcleek]

I would do everything else possible before heating up that big nut to remove it. By everything else, I mean test the EGR system (http://www.tomco-inc.com/techinfo.aspx) to figure out what is wrong. EGR valves themselves rarely fail, but it is possible.

The IAC is a common issue. Remove it and clean its shaft. Once cleaned, rap it against your palm so that it makes a thwocking sound as the piston slides down the shaft against the spring. If it won't do that, clean it some more.

So do take it apart to clean (the iac).

I was thinking the egr has some corbon holding it open or maybe the spring was bad or weak. Have checked all vacuum lines and electrical parts seem ok . have applied vacuum to valve its self and let off ,it makes a clunking sound. The tube its self don't get hot unless driven at a speed that keep over 2000 rpm.

 

[Mark_88]

Problem with that nut is that it can fuse to the actual pipe....seen more than one pipe turn pretzel on me...but using liberal amounts of liquid wrench or other and tapping the nut gently with a BFH usually gets them free...otherwise, prepare to replace the pipe.

If cleaning the IAC doesn't help you may find the EGR tube has a bit more than carbon in it...one of mine was packed with gooey greasy gunk that would not allow proper air flow making the system useless...cleaning it helped immensely.

 

[adsm08]

You need to do an actual EGR flow test. It is really simple.

With the engine idling apply vacuum to the valve. If the engine doesn't stumble and/or die, you don't have flow.

Gas engines can't handle EGR flow at idle.

 

[shane96ranger]

So do take it apart to clean (the iac).

Yes, there are two bolts that hold it on with most likely a 10mm head. Some of them you can actually take the solenoid off with two phillips head screws, others are a one piece unit. If you can remove your solenoid, do it because it's easier to clean IMO. Then just get some carb cleaner and let it have it (just as Earl mentioned).

 

[jmcleek]

You need to do an actual EGR flow test. It is really simple.

With the engine idling apply vacuum to the valve. If the engine doesn't stumble and/or die, you don't have flow.

Gas engines can't handle EGR flow at idle.

Forgot to say that I allready did this and it don't take much vacuum to open it . Made it run real bad to.

Problly attack that IAC first while I what for the penetrating oil to work.

 

[jmcleek]

The IAC is a common issue. Remove it and clean its shaft. Once cleaned, rap it against your palm so that it makes a thwocking sound as the piston slides down the shaft against the spring. If it won't do that, clean it some more.

Got that cleaned as stated. with the power off it pass air / power on it is closed?

 

[jmcleek]

so I am down to 1 code .#31

 

[shane96ranger]

I have 2 codes. 1 is #32...... The other code ,# 13

so I am down to 1 code .#31

So now there's a 3rd code? What is 31?


If you've verified the function of the EGR valve, but still get an EGR code, you're problem may be the EGR position sensor (aka pressure feedback sensor). Have you looked into this as a possible cause yet? It will look similar to this:

 

[jmcleek]

So now there's a 3rd code? What is 31?


If you've verified the function of the EGR valve, but still get an EGR code, you're problem may be the EGR position sensor (aka pressure feedback sensor). Have you looked into this as a possible cause yet? It will look similar to this:

Have replaced the egr position sensor Also the local auto parts store loaned me a new map sensor to test, and just tried a block off plate between the EGR and manafold .Still has same semptoms, exsept it starts good cold now, has a slite hesitation tell warmed up then slowly picks up aradick miss, and idle speed drops, if you punch it ,it is like you turned off the key untell you let off, then it will pick back up. Have changed the air charge temp sensor and coolant temp sensor, which did help some .

Any way,code #31-EVP voltage out of range during self test---PFE/ EPT/ EVP below minimum voltage.


found this:


CODE: 31 (KOEO) - EVP circuit below minimum voltage. Vref (5 volt reference voltage supplied by the computer) missing or broken wire or bad connection in circuit. Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire. If it is missing, look for +5 volts at the orange/white wire on the TPS or MAP sensor located on the firewall near the center of the car. Use the black/white wire for the ground for the DVM.
With the sensor removed from the EGR and still connected, press the plunger and watch the voltage change on the brown/lt green wire. Pull the passenger side kick panel and measure the voltage at the computer. You will need to remove the plastic cover over the wires and probe them from the backside. A safety pin may prove very useful for this task. Use pin 27, EVR input (brown/lt green wire) and pin 46, signal ground (black/white wire) to measure the voltage. The orange/white wire is Vref and should always be 5 volts -/+ .25 volt. Be sure to measure Vref at the EGR sensor to rule out any broken wires or bad connections.
Measuring the voltage at the computer helps you spot broken wiring and intermittent connections.

 

[jmcleek]

Orange / white wire 5v - brown / green wire 0.24v ,on the computer end brown /green 0.24v . All mesured from black/ white wire as ground. still shows code 31. Allso check voltage at sensor for full traval of sensor , seamed ok.

 

[jmcleek]

This is from tomco

The code descriptions below are general
descriptions to help you understand the system.
Look up your code definitions in the appropriate
service manual when diagnosing a vehicle.
DTC 31/327 typically means that the
PFE signal is less than the self test minimum
voltage. This can be due to a bad PFE sensor, a
bad PFE hose, improper reference voltage, a bad
connection or a bad computer.
An important thing to remember is thesharp edged orifice in this system. This or other
passages can clog causing codes and no EGR
flow. We have seen a number of such cases, so
remember to check for restrictions.
DTC 32/326 typically means that the
EGR valve is not fully seated. This can be due
to a bad EGR valve, vacuum trapped in the EGR
hose, a clogged EVR filter, or a bad EVR solenoid.
It is also important to note that if you have
an exhaust ventilation system hooked up, that
this can also cause an inaccurate reading. Try
disconnecting the system and retesting.
DTC 34/336 and 35/337 mean that the
PFE voltage is too high. This could be the result
of a clogged exhaust or the PFE sensor itself.

 

[jmcleek]

So finaly got the EGR off. Not stoped up, but does show its age. How much leakage is ok? Also, the tube don't seem to be stoped up, is there away to check it without removeing it? It does pass air without any problem. Had a mechance tell me there was a adjustment prossess for the sensor, does anyone know anything about that?