Refresh me on freshening up wheel bearings...

[Eddo Rogue]

The other day I noticed my wheel bearings are loose. Its been awhile since I have dealt with non sealed bearings....

Can I repack/tighten them up? I heard these can work themselves loose. They looked ok when I did the brakes about 500 miles ago.

Or should I just replace them? the truck has 87k miles of mostly mellow driving.

If I do replace them, what all do I need? I noticed many options whilst shopping around, and feel I should probably replace seals too.

I have a press. What other parts/special tools would I need or should replace along the way?

Its Dana 35 TTB 3.73's not sure of # axle splines but its under a 4.0ohv extracab xlt model.

Thanks in advance.

 

[RonD]

You can try just repacking if visual inspection looks OK

You need to clean off the races to look for discoloration and wear, should replace the rear seal on each wheel
Clean bearings and inspect
Repack using "fingers method", lol unless you have a packer, never used one myself

Force the old grease out and new grease in

After hub and bearings are back in tighten nut as you spin the hub, tighten nut up and release it a few times while spinning
I like to put the wheel back on at this point but just snug, and spin again
Once satisfied bearings have been seated, tighten one last time then back off 1/8 turn to 1/4 turn so wheel spins but doesn't wobble
Install lock and/or cotter pin

 

[Eddo Rogue]

You can try just repacking if visual inspection looks OK

You need to clean off the races to look for discoloration and wear, should replace the rear seal on each wheel
Clean bearings and inspect
Repack using "fingers method", lol unless you have a packer, never used one myself

Force the old grease out and new grease in

After wheel and bearings are back in tighten nut as you spin the wheel, tighten nut up and release it a few times while spinning
Once satisfied bearings have seated tighten one last time then back off 1/8 turn to 1/4 turn so wheel spins but doesn't wobble
Install lock and/or cotter pin

Good call on checking for discolor will do.

I use the fingers/palm method as well lol

I'm assuming I gotta press the bearing off to replace that back seal?

Once again thanks Ron!

 

[Dirtman]

I haven't looked at what they cost for your truck, but on my 2wd they are so damn cheap it's not even worth it. I think I can replace everything (4 bearings and 4 races) and the seals for under 50 bucks. Judgement call though. Like Ron said, clean them and give them a good visual inspection. If they look good, pack em and send it!

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I haven't looked at what they cost for your truck, but on my 2wd they are so damn cheap it's not even worth it. I think I can replace everything and the seals for under 50 bucks. Judgement call though. Like Ron said, clean them and give them a good visual inspection.

I'm more concerned about fitment, quality and how much of a PITA is a replace vs repack. I would have to track down spicers or Timkens that fit my truck out of the 56 and a half options listed....

 

[Uncle Gump]

I say if they're good... the factory bearing are probably better quality then what you can buy now days.

I was taught to never clean bearings in say mineral spirits... just a good wipe down and inspection. If you do have to replace them... I typically use a long punch to knock them out... and either a driver or an appropriate sized socket to put them back in.

 

[Shran]

For tools you need a spindle nut socket and a flat screwdriver to pull the snap ring off the axle shaft and to remove the rear seal and a punch to remove the races... that's about it.

You can try tightening them. Sometimes it works. Usually they're worn to the point of being unusable and you'll immediately get a nice howling noise.

I'd try and use either Timken (preferable) or SKF bearings. Parts store bearings are just absolute junk. Make sure you get races with your new bearings since Timken and SKF usually sell the races separately for some reason.

Wipe off and check your spindle while you're in there... if the surfaces that the bearings ride on have grooves, they should be replaced too. Very common to see wear in that area.

 

[Ramcharger90]

Brand new Timken Bearings..... I have them ive been to lazy to do them. Even bought new dust covers, spindle nuts, retainers.....

Rockauto has the inner sets and outer sets for timken

 

[RonD]

You don't need a press to remove rear bearing, just pry off the seal

As said old races can be pounded out with a drift/punch
New races can be installed using old races, and/or correct size socket

 

[Dirtman]

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Thanks guys its all coming back to me....I would definitely get Timkens if/when replacing. I have plenty of punches, picks, snap ring pliers etc. so hopefully it wont be a PITA.

I watched my buddies hump a toyota rav4 for 2 days swapping some motor mounts with basically nothing because they were too stubborn to take a min gathering proper tools. I finally threw a bottle jack, some 1/2" drive stuff and few pry bars their way.

Point being I would rather use twice the tools to finish a job in half the time than take twice as long using half the tools.

 

[4x4junkie]

Just FYI if you find that you need them, Timken pt# SET-37 includes both a bearing race & cone. This is what I would suggest getting if you find you do need to replace them. They usually run about $12-15 per set after any shipping charges are added (you would need four sets to do both sides).

At 87K miles, you should not normally need to replace them, but it's been a fairly common occurrence (especially lately in this day & age of sealed cartridge bearings) that a brake shop or other service tech unfamiliar with them overtightens the hell out of them, and damages them).

I see no way mineral spirits or solvents could damage the parts of a steel bearing... The only thing I can see maybe is being careful to not spin a dry bearing excessively if you are using compressed air to dry them. Repack them with a packer or your palm & fingers (either works fine, just one is messier), and reassemble as per the service book. Only deviation from the service book I would recommend is to torque the outer bearing locknut to 225 ft-lbs IF you have manual-locking hubs (disregard this if you have auto hubs).

 

[Uncle Gump]

I see no way mineral spirits or solvents could damage the parts of a steel bearing... The only thing I can see maybe is being careful to not spin a dry bearing excessively if you are using compressed air to dry them.

It doesn't damage the steel of a bearing... but unless you remove 100% of the mineral spirits from the bearing... being that it's oil based... a thin film of it will be left on the bearing and it will dilute and contaminate the fresh wheel bearing grease you pack the bearings with. A simple wipe to remove the old grease for inspection and a proper job packing the new grease in... forcing the old grease out. I was taught and have done it this way my entire career. As for removing the solvent from a tapered bearing with compressed air... it will damage the bearing and if you spin it fast and long enough... they will come apart... more like self destruct.

 

[Curious Hound]

I usually clean out the ld grease with brake cleaner. You can use compressed air to dry everything. Just don’t let the bearing spin. As Gump said, it can destroy the bearing and personal injury will occur when it does.

This is an easy job to do right and an easy job to do wrong. When i was pulling a couple hubs at the junk yard recently, on one wheel, the outer lock nut was completely loose and backed out against the washers/ c-clip. Somebody had done it wrong.

 

[4x4junkie]

The infinitesimal amount of mineral spirits left on a bearing after cleaning it won't be enough to affect the viscosity or lubricating quality of the grease after you repack it (at least if you thoroughly clean it so all the old grease is gone). As Eric says though, a quick shot of brake cleaner or a similar solvent will quickly wash away any leftover mineral spirits if it's got you worried (I use lacquer thinner or acetone to clean bearings myself, it leaves no residue of it's own).

Not that simply wiping them down is wrong, but I prefer to have 100% fresh clean grease in the bearings after I repack them.