oh and how do you decipher which fuel pump is going out.
to test a pump that hasn't failed but is
going out is tricky one to pin down. the way i like to do it is to check the capacity of max that each pump is able to put out
the in tank pump dead-head should peak at 6psi (or more, it is rated at 6 peak). the high pressure should dead-head peak at 99psi
check the pressure before the high pressure pump to check the in-tank pump
block the return line and check at the rail to check the high pressure pump
don't hold them dead-head any longer than to see what pressure the pump reaches, and stops climbing, a few seconds at most
break in procedures are like butt-holes, everyone has their own, they are each a little different, but they all get the job done just fine
either way be sure to watch for oil pressure drops
i have well over 100 engines under my belt, a flat-tappet camshaft needs to be fired up, wait for oil pressure, and take it to 3k and hold it for the first 5-10 minutes
the cam needs oil to break in without scarring, under 3k the pump won't pump near as much as it does over 3k
due to recent epa restrictions on ZDDP content, literally all oils available across the normal parts counter don't have enough ZDDP for a flat-tappet cam.
i run the redline break in additive not only on break in, but with every oil change.
be mindful that additives such as "Z-MAX" that say "Zinc replacement" or "zinc substitute" don't actually have zinc in them.
of the over-the counter oils, diesel oils have the most ZDDP, i use Mobil DELVAC 15W40 for this reason.
the reason the EPA has dropped ZDDP allowances to 500ppm or less (even diesel oils have seen a drop in their allowances) is to keep unwanted metals out of the cats, which would get there when the 3-micron thick layer of oil left on the cylinder wall after the piston goes down burns off and goes out with the exhaust.....i'm not worried, how about you?
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