Rebuild: Engine Assembly

[Tater55]

Hello Everyone,

So a couple of months ago, I slowly started to tear into my 2000 3.0 FFV. I had lost compression after the engine was running really rough and I was unable to find the culprit. I started with the heads. I took them off and sent them to the machine shop. I got them back, but decided to pull the remainder of the engine and do a complete rebuild.

Fast forward to today, I currently have the block, crank, and flywheel in the machine shop as well getting worked on.

My main focus for this post is advice/pointers on what to look out for when reassembling the engine.

I plan on using the same lifters, pushrods, pistons, rocker arms. I will be ordering rings, bearings, timing kit, oil pump, gaskets, etc...

Obviously the timing chain is assembled in a certain manner. I’m also aware certain things like main caps, rod bolts, head bolts should be torqued to spec. What other components/sensors should I keep in mind while installing? I’ve heard about the CPS having to be installed a certain way as well?

This is my first engine I’ve torn apart and reassembled on my own. With that said, I am very mechanically inclined and am pretty knowledgeable of parts and how an engine functions. Just don’t have the time on tools rebuilding engines. I have friends and family who have worked on engines many times, I would just like some input from you guys/gals. Thank you in advance!

 

[RonD]

I would replace the lifters, just on speculation

Only sensors that wear out are the O2s, 12 years or 100k miles

You are on the right track
pistons and rods do have a forward facing position so have to be installed that way
most engines have thrust washer/bearing on the crank so it can't shift forward or backward in the block, they are like shims
timing gears will have dots on each, crank dot at 12:00, cam dot at 6:00 so facing each other
3.0l has no tensioner so gears with chain need to slide on together

timing cover on the 3.0l has two coolant passages, make sure that gasket is placed well as they tend to leak, adding some RTV(silicone) wouldn't be out of line on that gasket

3.0l was used in cars as well, there are 2 different heads gaskets, one for cars and one for trucks, use the truck one of course
2000 uses TTY head bolts so they must be replaced each time they are removed
Make sure the dowels in the block for head alignment are put back in

Make sure the dowels in the back of the block for transmission alignment are put back in

 

[Tater55]

I would replace the lifters, just on speculation

Only sensors that wear out are the O2s, 12 years or 100k miles

You are on the right track
pistons and rods do have a forward facing position so have to be installed that way
most engines have thrust washer/bearing on the crank so it can't shift forward or backward in the block, they are like shims
timing gears will have dots on each, crank dot at 12:00, cam dot at 6:00 so facing each other
3.0l has no tensioner so gears with chain need to slide on together

timing cover on the 3.0l has two coolant passages, make sure that gasket is placed well as they tend to leak, adding some RTV(silicone) wouldn't be out of line on that gasket

3.0l was used in cars as well, there are 2 different heads gaskets, one for cars and one for trucks, use the truck one of course
2000 uses TTY head bolts so they must be replaced each time they are removed
Make sure the dowels in the block for head alignment are put back in

Make sure the dowels in the back of the block for transmission alignment are put back in

Awesome! Thanks for the tips. I will go ahead and order lifters. The cam had some wear on the lobes as well, but nothing serious. I was going to wait until the machine shop gave it back to ask them what their thought was on it (replace it or reuse it).

Is minimal wear something to worry about? I can provide pictures once I get it back from the shop. They had asked me to bring it in, I’m guessing for cam bearing purposes.

 

[stmitch]

I'd plasti-gauge the bearings in the bottom end to ensure clearances are within spec before tightening things down for the final time. It's cheap, easy insurance to avoid issues down the line, and doesn't take much time in the scheme of things.

Make sure you use a decent assembly lube too. When you put the bottom end together, lubricate everything so that nothing is dry the first time you crank the engine.

 

[Tater55]

I'd plasti-gauge the bearings in the bottom end to ensure clearances are within spec before tightening things down for the final time. It's cheap, easy insurance to avoid issues down the line, and doesn't take much time in the scheme of things.

Make sure you use a decent assembly lube too. When you put the bottom end together, lubricate everything so that nothing is dry the first time you crank the engine.

Will do. I have a Haynes manual, I’m sure I can find all the specs in there.

Would you happen to know anything about the camshaft position sensor reinstall process?

I was reading up on it, apparently there is a certain way to reinstall so it functions properly. The manual doesn’t clarify how to install if I took it out without marking anything.

 

[55trucker]

In my *humble opinion*.....ditch the Haynes, they just don't hold a candle to the Ford factory manuals for detail you can get either book form or disc.

You can find either on ebay, it's money well spent.