Rear "radius arms"?

[yodaman1151]

So my rear end wobbles, bearings are fine, tires are balanced... I don't have a rear swaybar. I've been looking at fabbing rear trac bars or radius arms whatever they should be called... Any opinions? Will I lose flex? I plan on using hiem joints on both the frame and the axle

 

[small ranger]

find the source of the real problem. With your set up, if set up properly should not have this problem.

 

[yodaman1151]

while driving i can feel the rear "wandering". now don't freak out on me but the person that did the lift used the stock 2" blocks and added another 2" block under that... i been debating on welding them together to make one. would that cause my movement problem? i thought it should be fine without the swaybar but i havent owned a truck with any suspension lift. i still like how the rear links look and want to know if thier function is worth the work. maybe some pics and specs would be nice

 

[BONES]

Take a look at your rear leaf spring bushings for cracking and make sure the bolts are centered in the bushings.

Look that the leaf spring center pins are still centered over the spring pad as well as between the 2 stacked blocks.

Look at the condition of your rear spring U-bolts and their tightness, you should be able to see if they have been moving around at all.

One of these things probably isn't up to par.

You can also check that your rear wheel bearings are still good by jacking the rear diff off the ground and give each wheel an up and down wiggle or shake with your hands. There shouldn't be any clunking or movement really.

Double stacking blocks isn't the best idea but many kits reuse the factory blocks and add another block on top of them. For some trucks the factory blocks also double as the bump stop pad and need to be reused. If they are both steel I don't see why you couldn't weld them together.

The sway bar removed won't cause what your saying.

Rear links don't mix well with rear leafs tho, as both move up and down in a different arc and because of this, if combined, they will fight articulation.

 

[yodaman1151]

Thanks a bunch. I just did the shoes and didn't notice any movement from the bearings but I did notice one axle seal leaking SLIGHTLY. The upper blocks do have the bump stops attached... I wondered why they looked funny but now I understand. the u-bolts are barely long enough so the nuts barely got a full thread through them. That's what I wondered about the rear links cuz they would move in a arc and the axle should go straight up and down. But you don't think the swaybar would cause this? Is it to control body roll more?

Take a look at your rear leaf spring bushings for cracking and make sure the bolts are centered in the bushings.

Look that the leaf spring center pins are still centered over the spring pad as well as between the 2 stacked blocks.

Look at the condition of your rear spring U-bolts and their tightness, you should be able to see if they have been moving around at all.

One of these things probably isn't up to par.

You can also check that your rear wheel bearings are still good by jacking the rear diff off the ground and give each wheel an up and down wiggle or shake with your hands. There shouldn't be any clunking or movement really.

Double stacking blocks isn't the best idea but many kits reuse the factory blocks and add another block on top of them. For some trucks the factory blocks also double as the bump stop pad and need to be reused. If they are both steel I don't see why you couldn't weld them together.

The sway bar removed won't cause what your saying.

Rear links don't mix well with rear leafs tho, as both move up and down in a different arc and because of this, if combined, they will fight articulation.

 

[NMB2]

its probably your bushings at the shackles. especially if you are using the stock hard type.

 

[legoms013]

Could be many things, check all that has been mentioned before trying to adapt a coil setup...

On that thought, it would be sick if you or anybody could take james duff heavyduty traction bars, torch off the shackle mounts, weld in a coil bucket, and track bar mount and run coils in the rear. that would be BITCHEN. i have often thought about this idea since the james duff traction bars attach to the frame just like skyjacker front radius arms. the only thing that would need to be changed about them is how they mount on the axle, making a beefier connection is what im trying to say.

just an idea.

 

[NMB2]

there is similiar kits for fullsize chevy trucks. Not a great idea for anything beat on.