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Rear drum removal - the hard way


Yah but mine were so bad when I took drums off all the springs fell out they were just rolloin around in both sides... :O
 
got problems pulling rear drums off make sure you backed off your parking brake adjusters. . if your drum is frozen to the axle this worked for me put your tire back on the axle put on the lug nuts leave about 1/2 gap on the lug nuts from the rim. lower the car/ truck whatever it is now move the car forwards about a few mph hit the brake hard the do same in reverse may take 2 or 3 times that way. no it wont hurt the lugs or the rim remember you are only going 3 mph or so. there will be just enough movement of the brake drum back and forth to bust it loose. i was at wits end at one time when the drum was frozen on the axle i gave it a try came right off after that. the drum holes are a 1/16" larger than the studs. might not work for you but worked fine for me.:icon_thumby:
 
i "broke" my rear drums off with a sledge hammer, new one were not that expensive. mine were rusted to the axle flange. i now put anti-seize on when ever i have the drums off. i even use it on the backside of the alloy rims so they dont corrosion-weld to the steel rotor/drum. dad has had that issue before with a S10 blazer. my adjusters broke along time ago, i just adjust them manually at every oil change. that little cable inside the drum that goes to the adjusters broke, i did have a leaking wheelcylinder on the r.h. side, couldnt get the line loose, so i honed the clyinder with it still attached to the truck, and used the parts from the new replacement cylinder to rebuild it with. if i had known i could re-build it on the truck ,i would have just bought a rebuild kit. here is a pic with the r.r. when i discovered it was leaking. thought it was a axle seal at first. i usually touch the lugnuts after a short drive to see if my rears are working, thats how i first knew i had a issue with the right side. it wasnt nearly as warm as the left.
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Hit with penetrating oil for two or three days, rotate drum and tap with 3lb sledge. Another trick is to drill out the hold down spring studs from the backing plate side. Only once have I tried they trick but it worked great because of the ridge on the inside of the drum as well as frozen self adjusters. Always use never seize before putting the drums back on.
 
I've reassembled the brakes, I'm 95% sure it's all together right.
They are working great, but they're pretty hot afterwards. I checked them and turned the adjustor bolt all the way in - and it seems they might still dragging alittle.

My father thinks these Autozone (cheap) shoes could have been made slightly out of specification, and need to wear down some.

What do you think about that?
 
Eh mine were all new new drums shoes springs adjusters...

I had mine turned all the way in and they dragged for about 2 days... there fine now
 

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