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Rear diff whine after oil change


I would avoid lube shops and any chain operations- Jiffy Lube, Midas, etc. If you aren't going to a dealer find a local independent with a good reputation. Jiffy Lube calls their oil changers "techs", that's either very charitable or deceptive.
 
Just throwing a possibility out there that happens from time to time but is not something people run across often.

Are the tires the same size? There have been instances in the past where an identical brand and model line have had different sized tires even though the sidewall marking says they are the same. The basic backstory was that a particular tire was made for a specific vehicle model and others with the same name were made for everyone else.

With enough of a diameter difference, an LSD will engage and cause problems. I’ve seen threads on it in the CR-V forums.

I forget how they found out about the difference and confirmed it. It might have been calling the tire manufacturer and giving them the serial numbers off the tires.

As far as the fix, it took changing out both tires for new ones that were the actual same size.
 
I don't know where you got this information but Ford uses 75w85 in the mustang, and Torsen themselves uses 80w90 at the factory.

I got the info right here on this site:

And I have confirmed it on the axle on my truck. It requires 75W140 full synthetic. I was not aware that the new Mustangs with the Torsen come from the factory with lighter oil, which I confirmed. I also confirmed that for heavy use they recommend you put 75W140 in them.
 
When I had emailed Torsen about what gear lube to use, they recommended to use whatever was specified by the manufacturer for your application. They said that the Torsen would run in various different viscosity options.
 
When I had emailed Torsen about what gear lube to use, they recommended to use whatever was specified by the manufacturer for your application. They said that the Torsen would run in various different viscosity options.
Its on their website. See screenshots in post 7 of this thread.
 
My apologies Eric, I missed that. It's been a while since I looked at this thread.
 
Still waiting on the xl-3 to arrive, I've put the royal purple in the diff and it's quieter again. Starts getting noisy once the fluid heats up though. With acceleration above 55 or so, an additional noise can be heard. Going off the wear pattern on the pinion, I'd say perhaps the pinion bearing died on me....... Pretty soon to do so with the services having been kept up on (120k). I'll be checking it for play later today.

To clear things up, the noise started immediately after the fluid was replaced by the lube shop. Prior to that, there was no noise or play in the rear end. Over the course of about 3 hours I did a proper vehicle inspection when I purchased the truck at the beginning of the year
 
It kind of sounds like the previous owner put some thick lube in the differential to keep the noise down. Once it was drained out and even with the proper lube, the noise came back.
 
The above or the shop that did the work screwed something up. Hard to tell you you buy a used vehicle off someone. They could have done something to hide an issue that they didn’t want to deal with but it isn’t unheard of a shop messing something up either.
 
The shop initially put 80w-90 in the truck. The second time they allegedly put in 75w-140. I previously wasn't getting metal shavings on the magnet though. With what they put in the second time, I removed quite a bit of material several times... Hence why I changed the oil out myself a few days ago. As of this point, the particulate has stopped appearing aggressively so I would say there was something wrong with the oil the lube shop used... Possible damage, I'll find out when the friction modifier gets put in. If it's still making noise, I'd then assume there is now something wrong with the diff which wasn't previously present
 
I would avoid lube shops and any chain operations- Jiffy Lube, Midas, etc. If you aren't going to a dealer find a local independent with a good reputation. Jiffy Lube calls their oil changers "techs", that's either very charitable or deceptive.
I can change the fluid in my 7.5 all day long but when it comes to rear differentials I normally trust my 4 Wheel Parts shops for advice on problems. They will work on any rear end and IMO do an excellent job rebuilding/diagnosing problems. Last one they did for me was a blown out BOP axle on my 1971 Buick Skylark convertible, did an Auburn posi new gears and bearings. Excellent work!!! Just an FYI
 
I can change the fluid in my 7.5 all day long but when it comes to rear differentials I normally trust my 4 Wheel Parts shops for advice on problems. They will work on any rear end and IMO do an excellent job rebuilding/diagnosing problems. Last one they did for me was a blown out BOP axle on my 1971 Buick Skylark convertible, did an Auburn posi new gears and bearings. Excellent work!!! Just an FYI
I'm glad it worked for you but, after 42 years at a dealer, a good result from a chain shop is the exception. Our training budget ran $5000- $10,000 a year to stay current on Fords. Most independents figure they're good to go if their "techs" pass the nearly useless, multiple choice ASE tests.
 
100% agree, like anything service is really only as good as the person doing it. Anything involving fluids I do myself, I like knowing how to do repairs inside my repair capabilities. I knew the guys at my local 4 wheel parts store when I got mine done. I was only suggesting 4 wheel parts because those guys change gear sets like oil change places change oil. Would I go in Fort Worth where I live now?, not sure. I would ask around for sure and try to find the best option. I’m not as connected here in Fort Woth so I’d have to dig deep to find someone I trusted here. Q
 
The friction modifier that Ford sells, the bottle says right on it that it is "for noise reduction purposes only". It has no other use. Except to stink up your garage when you open the container.
 

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