rear axle bearing/seal replacement


I was under the impression that the 2.5in was for the 10in brakes...
 
is this axle-shaft-hub in need of replacement? i cant see a visual drop down but i can clearly feel a lip with my fingernail, calipers have a hairline gap when i move them over to the 'journal' surface. there is also clearly some pitting.
*EDIT*
just pulled other shaft and its a world of difference: no pitting, no 'lip' on 'journal'
 

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Journal is bad. That will eat up your bearing like the one in my picture above. New shaft needed.

Nothing rides where your calipers are. The seal rides out closer to the flange and that area looks good.

You can move the bearing and seal placement in the tube so that the bearung isn't completely riding on the bad part of the journal. But I don't think you can miss it completely. That shaft, with a new bearing may last a few months. But you need to save up $ and order a new one soon.

Damaged bearing area in red. Seal has been riding where the green arrow points.
rear axle bearing/seal replacement
 
any tips for getting the bearing to go straight back into the axle? it keeps going in slightly crooked and then jamming up. i am using a mallet and a bearing press kit from autozone

also the old bearing was surrounded in these flat shards of metal. is that an indication of any specific type of wear?

its going in straight but its not going in all the way, hammering the shit out of it and alumjnum tool is just getting g destroyed instead
 

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any tips for getting the bearing to go straight back into the axle? it keeps going in slightly crooked and then jamming up. i am using a mallet and a bearing press kit from autozone

also the old bearing was surrounded in these flat shards of metal. is that an indication of any specific type of wear?

its going in straight but its not going in all the way, hammering the shit out of it and alumjnum tool is just getting g destroyed instead
A thin film of axle grease around the race keeps the binding from occurring as much. Use a brass punch and tap around the edge of the race until the race is flush with the tube opening. Once it's flush, then use the race tool, but do not use a mallet. Use a 12oz hammer. You don't need to hit it hard, just firm and directly.
 
The bearing was really tough to get in and wouldnt seat as i beat on the bearing press tool with a mallet, i ended up breaking the bearing. I went to put my old shaft+hub back in the axle housing so i could move the truck across the street to avoid a street cleaning ticket and the shaft+hub had a very difficult time passing through the bearing and into the axle housing.
Im thinking perhaps i received the wrong size bearing. is this possible?
 
Certainly possible. There are usually numbers on the bearing itself. I've gotten a few items at the parts store that were in the wrong box...
 
the numbers on the rockauto and autozone bearings match at 5707 but the original bearing says 0?-59722. according to google, these two bearings have the same measurements.

also it looks like i shaved some hairs off the axle-housing/bearing-race. how bad is this?

i have a 36mm socket ready for pounding and the new autozone bearing is in the freezer.
 

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Hit that very gently with real fine sandpaper or scotchbrite and make sure there are no raised burrs. It's hard to tell in the picture just how bad that is. You don't want to enlarge the bore. Just make sure it is smooth.

When I look up those bearing numbers, the "original one" is described in inches and the others are described in mm. They're awfully close to being identical and most likely are. When you forced it in there crooked, it may have deformed slightly. And with bearings, it doesn't take much. Bearings are precision assemblies and should be treated with great care and respect. Cooling (freezing) the bearing should help make assembly easier.

By the way. The axle tube would be considered the housing. The outer ring of the bearing itself is called the outer race. The rollers/balls and cage, if present are called the rolling element. The inner solid ring is called the inner race. In this case, the bearing does not have an inner race. The rolling elements ride on a precision ground, polished portion of the axle shaft often called a journal.
 
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according to my research, the 59722 and 5707 bearing are the same.

theres definitely a lip formed on the pictured pink line that my finger nail catches on both sides. is 180grit sand paper too rough? thats the finest i have.

also i noticed there is an off-centered wear mark deep into the axle housing that the new bearing never touched. highlighted in yellow. is this some sort of clue.

i tried to torch+freezer trick and the bearing just quickly heated up. i also tried tapping in with a a hammer handle at the edges of the bearing and tapping on piece of wood that is as wide as the bearing. how common is it for a bearing to be this stubborn going back in?

im going to see if the old bearing taps back in.

and yes @Curious Hound , i did double post, cuase its my birthday, lol

*EDIT*
bearing went in!
i used the old bearing + block of wood as a perfect sized press and also tapped around in circles with a wooden hammer handle
 

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