rear axle bearing/seal replacement


I was under the impression that the 2.5in was for the 10in brakes...
 
is this axle-shaft-hub in need of replacement? i cant see a visual drop down but i can clearly feel a lip with my fingernail, calipers have a hairline gap when i move them over to the 'journal' surface. there is also clearly some pitting.
*EDIT*
just pulled other shaft and its a world of difference: no pitting, no 'lip' on 'journal'
 

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Journal is bad. That will eat up your bearing like the one in my picture above. New shaft needed.

Nothing rides where your calipers are. The seal rides out closer to the flange and that area looks good.

You can move the bearing and seal placement in the tube so that the bearung isn't completely riding on the bad part of the journal. But I don't think you can miss it completely. That shaft, with a new bearing may last a few months. But you need to save up $ and order a new one soon.

Damaged bearing area in red. Seal has been riding where the green arrow points.
rear axle bearing/seal replacement
 
any tips for getting the bearing to go straight back into the axle? it keeps going in slightly crooked and then jamming up. i am using a mallet and a bearing press kit from autozone

also the old bearing was surrounded in these flat shards of metal. is that an indication of any specific type of wear?

its going in straight but its not going in all the way, hammering the shit out of it and alumjnum tool is just getting g destroyed instead
 

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any tips for getting the bearing to go straight back into the axle? it keeps going in slightly crooked and then jamming up. i am using a mallet and a bearing press kit from autozone

also the old bearing was surrounded in these flat shards of metal. is that an indication of any specific type of wear?

its going in straight but its not going in all the way, hammering the shit out of it and alumjnum tool is just getting g destroyed instead
A thin film of axle grease around the race keeps the binding from occurring as much. Use a brass punch and tap around the edge of the race until the race is flush with the tube opening. Once it's flush, then use the race tool, but do not use a mallet. Use a 12oz hammer. You don't need to hit it hard, just firm and directly.
 
The bearing was really tough to get in and wouldnt seat as i beat on the bearing press tool with a mallet, i ended up breaking the bearing. I went to put my old shaft+hub back in the axle housing so i could move the truck across the street to avoid a street cleaning ticket and the shaft+hub had a very difficult time passing through the bearing and into the axle housing.
Im thinking perhaps i received the wrong size bearing. is this possible?
 
Certainly possible. There are usually numbers on the bearing itself. I've gotten a few items at the parts store that were in the wrong box...
 

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