Re-Install Harmonic Balancer?

[Rearanger]

Getting close to front cover/water pump re-install.

Getting the harmonic balancer on seems to require a tool - what doesn't. Is there any reason I can't just use the center bolt to re-install as long as I can get enough starter threads engaged?

 

[adsm08]

No reason you can't just use the bolt, except for the part where the tool is just a longer version of the bolt because you can't usually get those dampers in far enough by hand to get the original bolt started.

If you can get enough room to swing a hammer I have used plastic hammers and dead blows to get it on far enough to use the bolt.

 

[Rearanger]

Yes, I think I'll do a test fit by hand before installing the front cover. I have the rad out which makes access much easier.

The balancer came out quite easy with my puller so maybe light smacks with rubber mallet will get it in enough.

Thanks for the help.

 

[JP02XLT]

You will have to remove the thick washer from the bolt and then it will be long enough to use to get it started to pull the balancer onto the shaft, make sure its on straight and go easy as the head of the bolt is not much larger than the inside of the balancer. I have done this many times, once I get it on about 1/4" or so back out the bolt and reinstall with the washer on it and press the balancer on until it bottoms out. Dont forget once it is installed to remove the bolt and add a dab of silicone around the front of the keyway, reinstall bolt and torque to spec.

JP02XLT

 

[Rearanger]

Thanks. Have noted RTV on keyway.

 

[JP02XLT]

Oil can travel down the keyway, past the key and out the balancer, which slings it everywhere. It can be a very small leak and a real pain to find, Dont ask how I know this, it only took close to a month to find this out.

Good luck

JP02XLT

 

[Rearanger]

I looked for a loan tool harmonic balancer installer at Advance but the set they had did not have any adapter for Ford. The crankshaft bolt is an odd pitch. It's an M14x1.5. I then went to O'Reilly's and they had a set with the proper adapter.

I attempted the soft mallet install but it did not budge so had to use the installer, which worked great.

Unfortunately I now have an oil leak. Thought at first it was the front seal, but have now determined it is the pan gasket just under the front seal where is curves around the bottom of the front cover. It appears that putting the front cover back on disturbed the gasket. The oil was pouring out at first, I then loosened the two pan bolts at the front cover and tried to reposition the gasket forward. Fixed somewhat but still a small amount of oil leakage - DAMN.

So now I'll have to pull the engine and do the oil pan gasket. Anyone squeeze RTV in that area between the oil pan and front cover for temporary fix?

I know I've read that I need to pull the engine for the pan gasket but can I just lift it a little to get the clearance without the full pull??

 

[JP02XLT]

There should be a dab of silicone on the corner where the front cover meets the block and pan, I would drop the pan again and try to clean and re-seal that area, dont get carried away with the silicone it only takes a drop the size of a dime or so, the extra could wind up in the pan and maybe eventually into the oil pump pickup, so be sparing in the application.

JP02XLT

 

[Rearanger]

Yes, I did put RTV on that area.

When I loosened the two pan bolts at the cover and pulled the pan seal out a bit by the tab, then pushed it back, the leak greatly reduced to a slow drip.

I have already forced RTV between the metal pan lip and the rounded bottom of the cover after extensive cleaning with acetone so it'll stick. I used a syringe with a curved tip to force RTV into that space, then used my thumb to press it more inside against the pan gasket. Not a lot of access but with some necessary swear words for assistance it is doable.

This is not a pressure leak so I'm hoping the RTV will fix for now. I'll leave it 24 hours to cure then see.

I've got too much other stuff I need to get done before this engine.

 

[JP02XLT]

Sounds like you did the best fix you could do, Hopefully this has it covered, I hate oil leaks too. While not technically a pressure situation from the oil pump, you still have some crankcase pressure and the crank rotating and throwing oil mist everywhere around in there. Sometimes those are the worst to try to fix.

JP02XLT

 

[adsm08]

This summer go around to some car shows/swap meets in your area. If you live anywhere near (like less than a day's drive) from Harrisburg PA hit one of the Carlisle shows. There are usually vendors selling cheap tools. I was able to pick up a PS pulley remover/installer kit and a balancer installer for less than $50 for the both a few years ago. I need to replace a few parts on both now, but I have gotten my money's worth out of them.

 

[Rearanger]

The HB installer set that O'Reilly's had as loaner/sell was only $46.00.

I also looked into making my own with a M14x1.5 bolt but only found one at 120mm (about 4 3/4') long. It's a little tight on length but may be doable to at least get to point where OEM bolt can be used. I'd have to adapt a pipe onto it.

The metric bolt, nut and shipping is about $16. Not sure yet what I'll do.

Do you have a tool that can be used to remove the crankshaft seal while the front cover is still installed? That seal is in tight and I had to knock out after front cover was removed. As well it's size means it's harder to move.

 

[JP02XLT]

There are seal pullers made like a hook that you put into the seal and pry it out, I have had better luck using a small screwdriver on the outside edge of the seal, like your driving the screwdriver across the face of the seal, and getting the edge to fold, increase the size of the screwdriver and repeat, when you get it folded in use a pair of vice grips to pull it out. Do not drive the screwdriver between the seal and cover, you want to only hit on the seal. Its not easy, but it will work.

JP02XLT

 

[Rearanger]

I've looked at pullers but am not convinced any will work as well as your method. For me this front seal is quite large to what I'm used to on compact cars and have never had a problem before. At least this time I had the front cover off so knocked it out from inside - even then it was in quite tight. As well the metal part of the seal is very robust which makes collapsing it seem like it would be difficult.

I wonder what the pros use? There is a tool for everything else but for these big seals there doesn't appear to be a reliable puller.

My RTV fix has cured now over 24 hours and will take it for a drive today to see if any leaks. At least the rest of the cover is sealed tight. One thing I did find was Ford's bolt sealer did not work that well; there was more rust on some of the bolts than I would have expected. I use Permatex High Performance Thread sealer, has always worked well.

 

[Rearanger]

OK, leak fixed.

Thinking back I had to reposition the front cover as trying to get it on with the gasket was a trick. I used two drill bits to hold the upper part of the gasket and as an alignment tool to make sure the gasket stayed in position and help with cover placement. It would have been better if Ford had also had an alignment pin on the top as well.

Anyway, I must have disturbed the RTV on the repositioning as it only appeared to leak from the PS. However I did not want to take any chances and RTV'd the entire area of the curved bottom of the cover.

Hopefully this will last a long time. Thanks for the suggestions and help.