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Rangerrod 2.0


Well I started this project 8 years ago and the plan was 35's 37's were just starting to become available. Its not goin to hold up a 60 is in the near future. Im dedating on wether to even put a front driveshaft in it. Plan down the road is a 60 and a 14 bolt.
 
i love this thing...
 
Thanks got steering dialed in Ill post some pics tomorrow and get fuel lines installed.
 
i can i drive it?? lol
 
Looks great so far...I got a couple questions for ya. Did you narrow the 60 or did you have it done, any pics of that?? It's full float, right (pics are hard to see) Also, the tcase setup, did you get it that way, or build it?? I ask cause I'm building a 1356/dana 20 combo and I was curious how you did your intermediate shaft. I know how I'm gonna do mine, but since yours is a different reduction box...
SVT
 
Looks great so far...I got a couple questions for ya. Did you narrow the 60 or did you have it done, any pics of that?? It's full float, right (pics are hard to see) Also, the tcase setup, did you get it that way, or build it?? I ask cause I'm building a 1356/dana 20 combo and I was curious how you did your intermediate shaft. I know how I'm gonna do mine, but since yours is a different reduction box...
SVT

I bought my kit from wild horses 4x4 I wouldnt deal with them again had lots of problems directions sucked. Its a c4 to dana 300 adapter to the 203 and a 203 to dana 20 adapter with there intermediate shaft.

The 60 my buddy had built for a project that never got done so I bought it. It has 35 spline spool and the inner shaft is 35 spline as well. The outer drive flange is 30 spline I had dutchman motor sports build me custom double splined chromo shafts. Im just running a warn 30 spline slug on the outer. The unigue thing about this axle is the "rings" welded to the end of the axle tub are the same bolt pattern as chevy sindles so from the ring out its just like a front axle.


This shows the backside of the ring
truckstuff070.jpg



front side of the stock chevy dana 44 hub
truckstuff071.jpg


Not the way its normally done but it works this rearend will migrate over to my cj and a 14 bolt c&c will replace it.

Heres a buddys build over on pirate has alot of good pics of him narrowing his 60 for his cj.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=813798

Just take your time Ive narrowed alot of axles its not that hard do some research.
 
I think Dutchman charges like 45 an axle shaft to resplin them too so if you narrow the housing yourself its not really that expensive.
 
I've already narrowed my front hp kp 60, it wasn't that bad, but the rear I was curious as how the spindle was reattached. I'll check out the link you sent. I'm also looking at the new 40 spline FF setups coming out and thinking of building an axle with them...
SVT
 
Thats kind of the main reason Im going with a 14 bolt 4 diffrent widths from the factory so I dont have to narrow a rearend and lockers are cheap. c&c 14 bolt is 63.5" wms to wms.
 
My front 60 was 69.5 wms, I took it down to 60...the trails I go on would be rough with full widths, plus I'd like to try and keep it somewhat street legal as I still want to drive it to some places...
SVT
 
Fuel lines are in and steering shaft is connected to steering box. The slip in the steering box is the same size for toyota and ranger so basically it slides together. Also the splines for the two steering boxes are the same, so pretty easy to get a toyota box in there just in case anyone is following along.

truckstuff072.jpg


truckstuff073.jpg
 
I can't remember, but did you fab your tank, or buy it?? I was thinking about doing something similar in the same spot, but do a cutaway in my bed and lower the tank as much as I could....I would like to squeeze 20-25 gallon fuel tank back there, right above the rear axle...Looks good so far :icon_thumby:
SVT
 
just a fuel cell surronded by sheetmetal and 1/4 plate on the bottom.
 

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