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Ranger won't start...


nadsab

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
94
City
SE Michigan
Vehicle Year
1997
Transmission
Automatic
Hi,

We have a 97 ranger, 2.3 L, 2 wd step side.

It was running fine all day, engine was not running rough at all everything normal, then sat for an hour, then out of the blue, it would not start. It now cranks fine though – we did have to jump it and re charge the battery though – but I suspect batt ran down because of all the cranking attempts - but have not ruled out electrical problems for sure though.

Anyway we took the rectangular rubber duct off - the air cleaner inlet from filter going to top of engine - and put a small cap full of fuel into the air intake on top of engine, cranked it without duct on engine - it ran for about a half minute then stalled again. Air filter almost brand new not dirty at all.

First thing I did was check the fuel pump shut off switch and it is not tripped.

Any ideas as to what it could be? I have my suspicions but wanted to get other ideas - opinions before I start poking around.

Thanks for any ideas.
 
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Hi,
...and put a small cap full of fuel into the air intake on top of engine, cranked it without duct on engine - it ran for about a half minute then stalled again.
Thanks for any ideas.

Hint ... hint ... You put fuel into it,it ran.

Bypass the fuel shutoff switch with a jumper wire to eliminate it a the problem. Turn the key to the run position to listen for fuel pump. It should run for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel rail. If the pump runs correctly, you have a blockage in the fuel system. Check the fuel rail for pressure. Replace the fuel filter, and while the fuel line is off, bump the key to see if fuel gets to the disconnect of the fuel line (have a container to catch the fuel).
Can you hear the injectors click when it runs?
 
Thanks so much srteach...

Never paid attention to the injectors yesterday I will listen for them today. I did hear a clicking sound when trying to turn it over not sure if it was injectors though.

I was wondering if I should get under truck to listen for pump while ignition key is turned...

Is the fuel pump located in the gas tank?

Also - are there only two leads coming out of the switch to jump (I'm not at truck now it's at my friends house)?

Just want to make sure I don't fry the switch if it is OK.....
 
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Get close, but not under the truck to listen, though you should be able to hear it from the drivers seat with the radio off (not worth getting run over). The pump is in the tank. It is easier to remove the bed than drop the tank if it comes to that. (PM for info on bed removal, or search forums)

The fuel shutoff is only a switch. It has two wires, jump the wires to check. This bypasses the fuel shutoff. Don't run it like that except in an emergency.

BTW, running it without the air sensor (metal section right after the air filter) is not really that good for the engine, it confuses the computer and causes the wrong amount of fuel to be put into the engine. A short while for diagnostic is OK, but not for extended time.

I usually only post from the front page and check for PM's when I log in. PM me if you need more specific help when your posting ages off the front page.
 
OK great thanks.

I did replace the fuel filter a few months ago and it ran fine so I don't think it is the filter itself.

I'll definitely try your switch bypass idea today though.

If it is the fuel pump I will most likely hire it out, don't really want to go through all the trouble taking the bed or tank off.

One last thing - think it could be electrical related to the fuel injectors? Or maybe clogged injectors?

Or if it's a clogged line or injectors, doesnt that start gradually and then engine begins to run rough before it's a total non start?
 
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I did replace the fuel filter a few months ago and it ran fine so I don't think it is the filter itself.
If it is the fuel pump I will most likely hire it out, don't really want to go through all the trouble taking the bed or tank off.
One last thing - think it could be electrical related to the fuel injectors? Or maybe clogged injectors?

Replace it to be safe.

I did my fuel pump by my self, and im not that good of a mechanic I dropped the fuel tank got it installed and put back up in, in 3 hours. Its a good learning experience. Trust me, do it your self.

If your truck feels slugish or slow and your pumping your gas pedal to get it to start its pry your pump.

Also Goto a little parts store and get the best fuel injector cleaner they sell. :icon_thumby:
 
Thanks ryan I might try it.


...
The fuel shutoff is only a switch. It has two wires, jump the wires to check. This bypasses the fuel shutoff. Don't run it like that except in an emergency....

Just went back to the truck - the switch on our truck has three wires not two - a red and black striped, a green and yellow striped and an orange and gray striped. I was afraid to jump it did not want to short it out not knowing what wires to jump.

However when I tried to turn over the engine today - the battery was completely dead again - even after jumping and then charging it up for a half hour via our other car on Friday eve.

So anyway after hooking up to our other running vehicle to jump it again, truck turned over again without starting, and when we turned the ignition on without cranking - I did hear a clicking sound coming from the gas tank - but not sure if the pump was runing though - so it sounds like the fuel pump is at least getting juice but I could not tell if the pump motor was running to pressurize the tank though. Also I think I heard the injectors click too while turning on the ignition but not cranking..

ALmost sounds like it could be some kind of weird electrial problem since the battery keeps going dead...maybe a short?

Or...could a weak battery cause trouble with the fuel system -even if we are able to get it to turn over during a jump from another car?

I was also wondering - our gas gauge went out a few years ago we just use the odometer to determine fuel level by MPG - Is the fuel sending unit – the part inside gas tank that senses the gas tank level gas gauge – is that part of the fuel pump? My buddy told me a few yers ago he believed the sending unit was bad & was reason the gauge don't work...
 
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The sending unit and float are in the fuel tank with the pump.

Three wires? Use on DMM/ohm meter to check which wires to jump (on the disconnected switch). Touch the probes to each pair in turn. The correct pair to jump will show low resistance. Incorrect pairs will show OL on the display. If you get 3 OL readings, bad or tripped switch.

If you heard sounds from the gas tank area when you turned the key, the pump is working. How well, we don't know. Check the bicycle type tube on the fuel rail after pressurizing. It should spit fuel when pressed in.

The fuel system shouldn't be affected by a battery drain with the vehicle not running. It doesn't use electricity until the key is turned. The battery could be weak, though, and that might cause issues.

Put a DMM meter in line with a battery cable (disconnect cable, put probe on terminal and battery cable) and pull fuses one at a time till you see no drain on the meter. That is the circuit to find the problem with.
 
OL? You mean open circuit?

Where is the bicycle type tube on the fuel rail located?
 
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The sending unit and float are in the fuel tank with the pump.

Three wires? Use on DMM/ohm meter to check which wires to jump (on the disconnected switch). Touch the probes to each pair in turn. The correct pair to jump will show low resistance. Incorrect pairs will show OL on the display. If you get 3 OL readings, bad or tripped switch.

Should I do the check when the key is in ignition and acc is on?
 
OL is short for Over Limit or beyond measure for that range on the DMM. It means resistance is too high (and yes, open circuit). You check the switch at any time (no matter where the key is positioned. Check the battery with the key off, because you are looking for a drain without running the engine.

The schrader valve (bicycle valve) should be close to the front of the fuel rail.
 
yes, check for fuel pressure. now you hear a click, it could be a relay, do you hear a humming sound for 2-3 secs after the click? the humming sound is the pump, if you have a pump thats running then its either a clogged fuel line/rail/injector... worse it could be an ecm that crapped out. with a distributor-less ignition used on the lima engines, it can operate with out the computer if it has the CPS, but its timming is locked at 10btc i believe...
 

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