ranger hard start

[kro]

Ok hope someone here can give me some ideas.
I picked up a 1990 ranger 4x4 with a 4.0 this thing starts hard and then it will idle good but when I put it in gear it will run good and then I go about a block and it starts to lose power and it chugs then dies then it is almost imposable to start again when it does start it takes some time to get it to rap up.
I can then drive home again about a block and it starts stalling again.
Once home I can start it up again and it will idle fine for about 15 min then starts to sputter then dies.
I have changed the fuel pump relay the Ignition Control Module and
Fuel filter
once i changed the fuel filter now i can not keep it running at all.
It looks like it has new plugs and wires.
Is it the fuel pump itself. Or maybe the fuel pressure regulator

Any help would be grate.

 

[bronco_lou]

first off pull the codes from the computer.
Louis

 

[kro]

more info

the first codes are 14,87
my book says 14 is pip circuit failure
87 is fuel pump relay failure
then i did the work and now all i get is 11

 

[bronco_lou]

can you test the fuel pressure at the rail? should have around 40 with the regulator hooked up and 50 ish with the regulator unplugged.

Louis

 

[kro]

sorry it took so much time to get back
it is running 35 at the fuel rail and 35 right off the fuel pump.
now what should i run off the regulator back to the tank?
thanks for any ideas.

 

[bronco_lou]

sounds like you need a new pump

 

[kro]

strange thing is that i can leave it run at idle for as long as i want now and when i put it in gear i can set their and spin tires all day long in drive or reverse but when i try to drive it it makes it about a block then sometimes it will start back up but really hard and other times i have to shoot starter fluid to get it going then once idling it will make it back to the garage.

 

[kro]

ok one last thing i found on this page the specs for my year of ranger and the fuel pump should put out 30psi at idle and 40 normal running down the road.
so i check again and i get 30 psi at idle but if i rap it up quick it will jump to 40 then drop right back to 30 but if i rap it up slow like when you drive and it stays at 30.
would it be the pump or regulator.
thank you for all your help

 

[Big Jim M]

I'm thinking THAT is normal. Since the thing works off of vacume, raping it will cause the vac to drop momentarily.. then quickly jump back to high vac.. Sounds good to me.
Big JIm

 

[Nhaz]

PCV valve?

 

[kro]

ok guys i ended up putting a fuel pump and for 2 bucks put a pvc in and now it looks like it is running went down the road with no issues.
thanks again for all the info.

 

[kro]

help

ok i spoke too soon i just took it for another test drive and you guessed it about a 1/2 mile away it started to sputter and then died it was hard to start had to crank it for a good 2 min.
i now have 35 psi at pump and will hit 50+ when raped up runs great at idle
any ideas????????????????

 

[bronco_lou]

When it dies and you try to crank it have you checked to see if you have spark? Also when this happens can you hear the pumps running when turning the key on from the off position? When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

Louis

 

[Nhaz]

ok going into odd sounding stuff since it looks like everything else is covered.

I would now make sure that the Ignition control module has a Good seat to the metal since thats a heat sink transfer plate on the backside. If it isn't seated well it may be over heating.

Also. The EEC -IV module behind the passenger side kick panel. pop its lid off (both front and back side) and look for white aluminum powder in streaks across its board or just in piles. This module can play merry hell with various stuff if its started to die via corrosion.

 

[SquashMan2009]

35 is normal for fuel pressure, pull the maf sensor off and drive it. Might need cleaning/replacement