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Ranger abs problems. 1994 reAR ONLY???


Tyler Hunn

Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2010
Messages
16
City
MILWAUKEE, WI
Vehicle Year
1994
Transmission
Automatic
wHATS the dealwith these things.? its a little box with the rear line from the master going to it.then it sends the rear line to the brake cylinders.it has a power going toit and kinda looks like there might be little motors in it or something. I ended up redoing the complete brake system. everything except the booster. if any of you read my other post. So how does it work and how do they go bad. can I test it somehow. It seems that there is no pressure going to my rear brakes. theres a little but not as much as i would think. Im thinking that this little rear abs box is somehow "clogging" the brake line. its not pinched anywhere. and my abs and brake light are on.
truck hasnt ever had anyback brakes since ive owned it two years. it sat for 8 years beforethat. ive had every problem you can think of lol. damn near almost a new truck. do I need this or can i just go straight lines to the rear. how would i bypass the harness to it so my light is off?

thanks:headbang:
 
Last edited:
Just bypass it. Unplug the electrical connector, bypass it hydraulically and get on with your life.

The RABS systems were absolute junk. You have air trapped in the module, and it is a huge pain to bleed out without some sort of pressure or vacuum bleeder. The early RABS systems do nothing to help anyway. The biggest advantage of ABS is that you don't lose steering. Without 4WABS you don't get that benefit.
 
I had the same thing happen on my 91 but also at times I would stop and the rears would not release. I just bent the lines and used a brake line union to by pass the RABS valve. I left mine electrically connected and the light went out.
 
I'd have taken the module and light out to save weight.
 
I had the same thing happen on my 91 but also at times I would stop and the rears would not release. I just bent the lines and used a brake line union to by pass the RABS valve. I left mine electrically connected and the light went out.

really so if i run straight lines and just leave it connected do you think my light will turn off
 
so i looked up and its 119 dollars to replace.... now will i have a hard time putting the new one in with bleeding and everything. and... where is the damn sensor. how does it know if the tires are sliding?
 
Just bypass it. Unplug the electrical connector, bypass it hydraulically and get on with your life.

The RABS systems were absolute junk. You have air trapped in the module, and it is a huge pain to bleed out without some sort of pressure or vacuum bleeder. The early RABS systems do nothing to help anyway. The biggest advantage of ABS is that you don't lose steering. Without 4WABS you don't get that benefit.

With RABS it keeps you from swapping ends if you lock them up... You may lose steering but at least the rear end stays in the rear... I like that feature...
 
so i looked up and its 119 dollars to replace.... now will i have a hard time putting the new one in with bleeding and everything. and... where is the damn sensor. how does it know if the tires are sliding?

I believe the sensor is on the rear axle housing above the pinion...
 
With RABS it keeps you from swapping ends if you lock them up... You may lose steering but at least the rear end stays in the rear... I like that feature...

I have more trouble keeping the rear in the rear with any ABS than without it.
 

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