ranger 5.0 swap

[cammeddrz]

We are also comparing a SBC vs a SBF swap here too...

it is not that simple, more than just an sbc swap i am running on a shortened chev truck frame that is why all of those other components i listed were such a perfect fit......chevey designed them that way.

CAMMEDDRZ--Sorry to Hi-jack,....BUT,what did you use to cut out the firewall and did you have to use secondary cab support? What problems did you run into doing it this way? Kinda intriged here !

i used a cut-off wheel on a grinder, i then patched it from inside the cab after the engine was in and done.

that greenish/tan looking stuff you see through the holes is the factory foam insulation

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I don't think it's a huge deal to the cut the core support. I cut the bottom of mine out, made a new radiator base that bolted to the frame (lowering the radiator) and tucked it in as far forward as possible away from the motor. Hood shuts and latches just fine. I don't have the resources or the skills to cut and reassemble the cab sheet metal properly, but I hear you that would be ideal to do, esp on a big block or inline 6 motor that would need all the length you can get.

There are also swap radiators available that fit up in there really nice with no cutting or anying required to the front support. They are not cheap however ($400+)

it is not that simple, more than just an sbc swap i am running on a shortened chev truck frame that is why all of those other components i listed were such a perfect fit......chevey designed them that way.

That just takes it from apples vs oranges to grapes vs watermelons, a totally and completely different setup. The only thing the same is the cab, and how it fits with anything is irrelevant because everything else is totally different.

 

[Teddyzee]

Here's how much I trimmed my core support. Very minimal, you can't even see it now. The extra part on the left is for the cap, and it's easy to reach and remove. Stock 4.0 rad, I removed the AC condenser and rad sits right against the core support. (rubber mounted)

 

[cammeddrz]

That just takes it from apples vs oranges to grapes vs watermelons, a totally and completely different setup. The only thing the same is the cab, and how it fits with anything is irrelevant because everything else is totally different.

wrong, apples to apples here. in either case we are talking about taking an engine that did not come in the truck, and putting it into the truck. but that wasn't how my swap came up. mine came up when i was using it to illustrate that v8 swaps are a step-by-step process. that is less predictable than op seemed to think it was

you know that a 5.0 and a 2.9 are also:

totally different.

in fact they are more "different" than a 5.0 and 350 are
the only similarity that blue oval offers is how warm and fuzzy it makes you feel inside. they are both very different pieces of iron and aluminum regardless of who manufactured them

and teddy that is on F-ing tight fit. what happens when you need to pull a p/s pump? you'd need to butcher that core support in a different place just to fit the pulley puller. or pull the engine

 

[baddad457]

and teddy that is on F-ing tight fit. what happens when you need to pull a p/s pump? you'd need to butcher that core support in a different place just to fit the pulley puller. or pull the engine

WOW, you really missed that one didn't you ? He needs to do neither to change the power steering pump. You simply unbolt the pump and bracket, lift it out of the truck, THEN remove the pulley from the pump, pump from the bracket, and WA-LA !! replace the pump. There's nothing special about removing metal from the core support, and no "structural integrity" is lost to fit a radiator up inside the support. Your dead friggin wrong on that account. I removed the metal necessary to fit mine in the support and nothing bad has happened in the ten years since. The front end hasn't collapsed as a result from it. As for the "butchering" comment, what Teddy did is no more (or less, besides, it's not your truck) a hack job than what you did to your firewall. You're completely "off base" here in making that comment.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

wrong, apples to apples here. in either case we are talking about taking an engine that did not come in the truck, and putting it into the truck. but that wasn't how my swap came up. mine came up when i was using it to illustrate that v8 swaps are a step-by-step process. that is less predictable than op seemed to think it was

you know that a 5.0 and a 2.9 are also:

in fact they are more "different" than a 5.0 and 350 are
the only similarity that blue oval offers is how warm and fuzzy it makes you feel inside. they are both very different pieces of iron and aluminum regardless of who manufactured them

and teddy that is on F-ing tight fit. what happens when you need to pull a p/s pump? you'd need to butcher that core support in a different place just to fit the pulley puller. or pull the engine

You took a body and put it on a running gear that it didn't come with, slightly than just a V8 and transmission swap. Doesn't matter what the running gear is, even if it was a F-150 it isn't the greatest referance for a guy that isn't going the same route.

 

[cammeddrz]

yeah my p/s pump bracket can not un bolt from the engine until the pump is removed, and the ps pump can not un bolt from the bracket unless the pulley is removed. many vehicles are this way. obviously that one is not

 

[Teddyzee]

and teddy that is on F-ing tight fit. what happens when you need to pull a p/s pump? you'd need to butcher that core support in a different place just to fit the pulley puller. or pull the engine

lol, good thing I didn't know that when it was going together, otherwise I never would have been able to install the the front accessories!

Have no fear, there's plenty of room.

 

[Psychopete]

Wasn't made to be in there, some things are going to be hard to remove for sure. I enjoy the challenge and enjoying working on the truck regardless of what it takes. But it could be a lot worse, I feel sorry for Gwaii when something like an engine accessory fails on his project. But doing the swap differently is what makes each one different from all of the others! Good to see some different takes and different ideas on things. After seeing a lot of other swaps and how similar problems were tackled, I could say that there are a few things I would probably have done differently. There really isn't one right way to do the swap, that is for sure.

 

[Teddyzee]

Oh ya, I forgot, last Spring I changed the heads, etc., with the engine in the truck. It's very user friendly!

 

[bobbywalter]

my truck is cake to work on.



but the majority i work on are not. 2wd or anything without a bodylift offer some significant challenges ime. compared to one with a 3 in bl anyway.

to make a swap work in as short a time frame as possible...
step one for me is making the front clip removable.

step two is making room for cooling. a gen 1-gen3 really dont have good space for cooling unless its had some surgery. but it is not necessary by any means, just opens up options, and lowers failure rates for hard use 4x4's.


if you invest the time on these two steps and do a nice job. any engine issues or upgrades are greatly simplified from that point on. baddad says it all....friggen power bug starts nibblin....your wrenches stay warm and your wallet goes on a starvation diet...


theres a shit ton of room with oem stang setups from fox or even truck donors let alone the later short styles. any front of the engine work is easy when setup for it.


hell i can hardly fit a taurus fan on a 4.0 truck if the front cooling system is stock. my preferred setup could run a mk7 mechanical fan, couldnt do that with a 4.0 truck unless you relocated the radiator.


i dont like the core support mods for the first install, while it is preferable...its the maintenance and upgrades that ensue from there that makes it a worthwhile effort.

 

[cavedweller]

Teddyzee--Had not thought of a radiator drop! One could cut out the bottom support and weld up a a whole new properly squared radiator "box" and definently cut down on future maintenance costs... Still weighing the idea.

 

[cavedweller]

bobbywalter--I have found that whenever one intends to do an invovled project,indepth prior planning is a must ,so that things can go as smoothly as fate allows. I believe,now after reading through the archieves and what has been written herein,the front clip removal will be necessary,(ease of access),no matter which avenue is pursued ,thanks for the tips!

 

[Teddyzee]

Teddyzee--Had not thought of a radiator drop! One could cut out the bottom support and weld up a a whole new properly squared radiator "box" and definently cut down on future maintenance costs... Still weighing the idea.

For my year of Ranger (other may vary, not sure) the rad had two small wings on the side, lets say 6" from the bottom. These sat in a rad-mount channel in the core support.

My rad is tucked under the top of the core support, and the little wings sit on the frame rails now. So far, so good.
It's not a new idea, I obviously read it somewhere else.

You can see the original rad mount on the driver side frame rail in this shot, the rad now sits in fornt, and below it:

You can also see both in the shot, the original mount and the little "wing" coming off the rad (now sitting directly on the frame):

 

[cammeddrz]

front clip removal will be necessary

agreed, having the body completely off is just about the only better option.
i am in the middle of a 350/sm465/np203 swap into a 1986 toyota pickup. my buddy didn't want to pull the 6 bolts and take the cab off at first........he called me a couple days ago with: "i should have listened to you man........"
room to work is your friend