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Radius arms: wtf!


Andres629

Well-Known Member
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Solid Axle Swap
Joined
Feb 24, 2009
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Saskatchewan!
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Well, I searched how to get radius arms off, but all it said was unbolt them. I'm just wondering, before I strain myself too much, the D35 on my truck LOOKS like it's just bolted on there... It's got a hex bolt head on the bottom of the axle, and what looks to be a nut on top. However, try as I might, double wrenching, air impact, breaker bar with a pipe... nothing seems to be even budging that nut on top. So, what I'm wondering, is it just REALLY hard to get off of there, or am I looking at a :icon_confused: rivet? :dunno:
 
Well, I searched how to get radius arms off, but all it said was unbolt them. I'm just wondering, before I strain myself too much, the D35 on my truck LOOKS like it's just bolted on there... It's got a hex bolt head on the bottom of the axle, and what looks to be a nut on top. However, try as I might, double wrenching, air impact, breaker bar with a pipe... nothing seems to be even budging that nut on top. So, what I'm wondering, is it just REALLY hard to get off of there, or am I looking at a :icon_confused: rivet? :dunno:

It's got a lot more than one bolt.
Post a pic of what you are trying to remove (or a link to one).
How much rust do you have?

Why are you taking a radius arm off??/
 
no rivit, just ford loctite and rust I bet with you being in canda.Can make them a real pain in the ass.


on the bottom its just a hex head bolt

on the top its a "double shoulder" bolt.

kinda see it here,

08-25-08_1346.jpg

nut, coil spring, pull coil spring out, then you will have anouther big hex head, this one can be a pain in the ass to brake lose. this one is the one that holds your radius arm tot he beam,ford loctie, rust crust etc all the in the threds that go in to the beam. you might try some "heat"
 
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ahhhh north rust sucks haha i live in nc now and my truck is from nc so i was working on that same thing today i just used peatraion oil the stuff in a yellow and white can and a 4 foot copper pipe bender handle and then a breaker bar with a 1 1/8 socket on the end if u spray it down and let it sit over night it should come right out they use the blue thread locker on the bolt
 
The upper bolt is the same as the lower bolt, but has threads on both sides of the hex.

(here's a pic showing it unscrewed a ways)
attachment.php


Heat the thing up with a torch, this will release the Loctite and it should come out fairly easily then.
 
I'd d0 the same thing as 4x4Junkie: heat and break it with a pipe, then use an impact the rest of the way. But before that maybe use PBblaster liberally.

I live in CA in the valley where NO car has ANY rust and they were still an absolute pain in the ass. I used a cutting torch with a rosebud tip to heat them up glowing hot and a 4ft cheater bar on a open end wrench. Then an impact gun. Seriously I wonder what Ford torques those too in addition to freagin' red threadlocker. Almost as bad as the pitman arm nut that Ford torques down to 200ft lbs+...

I can only imagine what it would be like where things rust out bad...
 
all the bolts come off reallyeasy if you just smoke a cigerette and hit the bolts with a propane torch , they break free easy. no sence inwaisting your strength to break themlol
 
I mean break them as in break them loose, you know crack the initial tightness, starting the turning of the bolt within the arm.

If you break them off your screwed........
 
Ahh, thanks for all the input! I figured it was something like this. I let 'er sit in penetrating lube for an afternoon after wirebrushing off the rust... unfortunately no torch here, so I'm just going to have to do it the old fashioned way... haha!
 
Even a small propane or mapp gas torch will work. Penetrating lube won't touch lock tight, you need heat to free it up.
 
Well, I got it. After double wrenching and pushing on it with my feet, it worked. Thanks for all the replies, guys! I didn't have to get them right off, just loosen the driver's side just enough to move the arm to get the pumpkin off. Although, it sure would be sweet to get some extended radius arms on there... haha!
 
Go swipe a set of arms from a Fullsize. That's what I am going to be doing shortly, since I get to replace all of the bushings in the front end.
 
Oh... that works?! I never thought about it, actually. I always just assumed the TTB housings were a different width.
 
The arms from the d44 ttb are actually narrower and will not fit the d35 beam IIRC.
 
Well, I guess next time I head to the local JY I'll have to pull out the ol' tape! Maybe some 2WD ones, or some other ones would work. I'll report my findings when I can!
 

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