radius arm stud on ttb

[swynx]

The one the coil bolts onto. I can't get it out. I haven't attempted passenger side. I can't reach it with deep well. Scared of a adjustable wrench. Its rusted but not bad. I soaked it last night and this morning. Need to change my radius arm bushings

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

You would you be undoing that to change radius arm bushings? Undo the nut that hold the bushing on and remove the brackets from the frame or pull the axle beam forwards with a come a long and change em out.

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[swynx]

Well I also have to pull the front pumpkin to put an aussie locker in. It looked like the driver side radius arm is has to be removed to remove that. I haven't looked in the book or any thing. I was just tearing it down till I ran into a problem.

But I wasn't sure if I could pull it forward like that without damaging things.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

So you are trying to remove the nut that retains the coil then? 1 1/8" socket or wrench is what you need. Put a bit of heat to it, it may have thread locker on it.

 

[swynx]

No I got that off. The cool is out. Its that same stud the coil bolts to that also go through the radius arm into the beam. Its a mandatory step in removing the front third. I just read it in the tech library. Just need a bigger wrench and a bigger breaker bar.

 

[pillen140]

HEAT!!! i used a map torch and left it for a min... came out semi easy after that... there is yellow thread locker on them... plus a crap ton of rust i would imagine

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Yes, lots of heat. And a longer breaker bar with a snipe over that.
Good luck,

Richard

 

[PlumCrazy]

Use heat. Don't use brute force..the threaded "nut" will shear off the beam if it is stuck and you force it. I know because I sheared the upper and lower off on the BII and had to get back in there to weld 3/4" nuts back to the beams.

 

[cvar]

It's easier to remove the crossmember than to mess with that. See photos here ( http://imgur.com/a/BkzJc ) <== CLICK

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Use heat. Don't use brute force..the threaded "nut" will shear off the beam if it is stuck and you force it. I know because I sheared the upper and lower off on the BII and had to get back in there to weld 3/4" nuts back to the beams.

That must have sucked!

 

[swynx]

Mines not rusted up to bad. Mainly surface rust. Ill get some yellow can gas and try that.

 

[swynx]

Should I heat the stud, the nut, Or the beam? I'm gonna go ahead and say don't heat the beam and heat the stud at its base

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

There is locktight on that stud, head the base of the stud/beam where it is threaded in.

 

[ab_slack]

It's easier to remove the crossmember than to mess with that. See photos here ( http://imgur.com/a/BkzJc ) <== CLICK

I was looking at doing those, good info there, thanks.

 

[Andy D]

Knowing that the nuts are loc-tited is a good thing. Meantime the Rat's front end will have to get worse before it gets better