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Radius Arm Question


Imacarguytoo

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2008
Messages
16
Age
51
Vehicle Year
92
Transmission
Automatic
I am going to do the dana 44/ 9in swap from a 78 ford 150. I am doing this on a 92 explorer. Questions are can i run the stock length radius arms with about 6 in of lift? And it still flex good?
 
Last edited:
You might want to wrist the passenger side arm, but compared to the TTB it will be improved. What springs are you planning to use? Also, extend your shock mounts, see the F-250 shock mount article.
 
You might want to wrist the passenger side arm, but compared to the TTB it will be improved. What springs are you planning to use? Also, extend your shock mounts, see the F-250 shock mount article.

Why would i wrist it and what does that mean? Im researching springs as we speak for what works the best.
 
Actually, a TTB doesn't have the bind between the radius arms that a straightaxle has, so the TTB would actually fare better in that regard (of course you'd have to get away from stiff TTB lift coils to be able to see it though).


A wristed radius arm has a pivot point just behind where it's mounted to the axle. This allows it to pivot so the C-bushings don't have to soak up all the axle twist (basically it wants to act as a big giant swaybar).
The problem with wristed arms is you get some odd brake dive with it, since only one side is keeping the axle from rotating.


I would run extended arms instead of wristed if this will see much street use. Extending them lessens the amount the bushings have to twist (increasing flex), and will avoid the odd handling on the street.
 
A wristed radius arm has a pivot point just behind where it's mounted to the axle. This allows it to pivot so the C-bushings don't have to soak up all the axle twist (basically it wants to act as a big giant swaybar).
The problem with wristed arms is you get some odd brake dive with it, since only one side is keeping the axle from rotating.


I would run extended arms instead of wristed if this will see much street use. Extending them lessens the amount the bushings have to twist (increasing flex), and will avoid the odd handling on the street.

As long as you pin the wristed arm, there's no problems on the street. I've never seen anybody wrist an arm without pinning it. It would be pretty stupid not to unless it was a dedicated slow speed offroad rig. Even then i'd rather have the option.
 
True, pinning helps, although I don't really like the metal-on-metal joint on it either. If you drive it on the street much, it's going to rattle after it wears a bit.
 
Plain bolts/pins through the arm (without a bushing, like most I've seen) will never be free of all play. Perhaps if you go an extra step to tighten the bolts down so it's clamping the arm it would work though.

Now if this thing is a rattle trap to start (some are), then of course this probably wouldn't even be a concern. Clunks and rattles bug me big time though.
 
hell id forget about the pin concept (naturally) and wonder why it brakes and drives kinda crappy on the street.
 
Just driving the lumpy potholed streets of Los Angeles is enough to wear out your suspension lol.
 
Wristed should work fine then :icon_thumby:
 
I never pinned mine on the street and noticed nothing different than when it was pinned. I just left it out. It's no different than the suspension I am running now on my bronco II with no upper arm on the passenger side. Same principal. The more angle your radius arms are at though the more it will be affected by not pinning it.
 

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