Radius Arm Bushings

[junkfixr]

Need to replace 'em on an 87 4x4. I've done some searching here on the forum and I'm reading about dropping the crossmember. I'm not looking at the truck at the moment, but am I understanding that the crossmember at the back of the Radius Arm can be dropped ?

The hole where the radius arm (end with bushings & 1 1/8 nut) goes thru is a crossmember that can actually be dropped without having to remove coil springs, etc ? I understand that Ford put rivets in some, but grinding or torching off rivet heads seems like less work than removing coil springs and the entire radius arm.

I haven't done much suspension work, as you can tell, but I'm more willing to get my hands dirty and learn in the process, than I am to shell out $60+ dollars an hour for some other mechanic, who doesn't want to get that deep into an old truck to begin with. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[exbass94]

Yes, you can drop that cross member without removing coil springs or anything else. And yes you will probably need to torch/grind the rivets out. Replace them with grade 8 bolts.

Complete step-by-step how to:

1. Remove big nuts on end of radius arms.
2. Remove rivets and remove crossmember
3. Replace bushings
4. Reinstall crossmember with bolts
5. Install new big nuts

Done.

 

[brinker88]

Yes, you can drop that cross member without removing coil springs or anything else. And yes you will probably need to torch/grind the rivets out. Replace them with grade 8 bolts.

Complete step-by-step how to:

1. Remove big nuts on end of radius arms.
2. Remove rivets and remove crossmember
3. Replace bushings
4. Reinstall crossmember with bolts
5. Install new big nuts

Done.

Make SURE they are steel lock nuts and not nylon lock nuts or standard nuts

 

[junkfixr]

sounds like the ticket

I understand... Grade 8 with STEEL locking nuts ... got it.

I've got access to a lift & air chisels, grinders, etc. at work. Sounds like getting rid of the rivets will be the most difficult part of the job. If the truck is on a lift, will there be weight or pressure on that cross member ? How would you support it on the lift ? Support under tires, or support the frame ?

Oh yeah, what are the best bushings in your opinion ? LMC, Autozone, Ford Originals ? Any suggestions ?

 

[exbass94]

Jack it up by the frame until there is no vehicle weight on the front tires. I used Napa bushings on mine. They seem to be working very well and I have no complaints.

 

[brinker88]

Easiest way to do it is on the ground. You dont even need to take the wheels of if you dont feel like it. Grind the rivets of or if you have access to a torch, it makes it a LOT easier. Then remove the bolts, and slide the crossmember back. The radius arms will the go up agains the frame. To get them back down, use a bar and pry them into place. I prefer polyuerethane bushings myself. I think they last longer. Broncograveyard.com sells them for $18+ shipping.

 

[junkfixr]

Thank You All (Y'all)

Much appreciated ! Sounds like it's worth the effort and makes replacement in the future much easier.

 

[junkfixr]

A couple more questions...

It's raining but I pulled into the garage & took a quick look. It has 2 bolts & 2 rivets on each side for sure. It looks like I might need to move the high pressure fuel pump away from the frame rail before I start torching, and it needs to be out of the way to get bolts thru the frame.

Looks like the sway bar needs to be unbolted from the cross member before it'll slide back too. You guys run into this too ?

Looks pretty straight forward & simple though.

 

[Larry's shee]

Just did one side on my son's 94, and trust me, the other side will get crossmember dropped. Plus on 94 it's a 2 piece.

 

[junkfixr]

I hear ya...

This is my daily driver and I"m trying to restore it a piece at a time. It's gotten to the point that it's eating tires, and they won't do an alignment until the RA bushings are replaced.

If I"m gonna fight the coil springs I might as well order insulators, axle pivot bushings, sway bar bushings and rebuild the entire front end. The only thing that stands between me and new RA bushings NOW are 4 factory rivets.

Maybe I'll have to unbolt the sway bar, fuel pump and a few odds & ends.....Once it's all said and done it will make the replacement a cakewalk in the future. These Ranger Station guys know their stuff !

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The quickest/easiest way to get the rivets out is to grind an X in the rivet heads and air-chisol them off. On mine the RA crossmember was a two piece deal, I just took one side off at a time.

I had the wheel off and did it on the ground, I used a floorjack to raise and lower the beam to get it into position.

Considering the age of the truck new springs might not be a bad idea either, I did them (along with much needed shocks) at the same time.

 

[Protowrxs]

The quickest/easiest way to get the rivets out is to grind an X in the rivet heads and air-chisol them off.

Have to agree here. I cut off many a rivet off my old 40 Ford Sedan frame and that was the fastest method I found. Just sayin.

 

[jcook1994]

heyy need to do mine to 87 ranger extended cab with the 2.9 in there...i went with removing the crossmember to and because of the lift on it there is a drop bracket holding the crossmember so no rivets...truck is on jacks right now in the front and crossmember and old bushings out..having trouble getting the crossmember back into the radius arms and drop bracket..any ideas?

 

[coopab]

Much appreciation exbass 94 and brinker88

Much appreciated ! Sounds like it's worth the effort and makes replacement in the future much easier.

I have to do this same job on my boss' 96 Ranger and this writeup is great.
Thanks for asking the question and thanks to members who provide the great answers.

coopab

 

[cvar]

For some photos, click here: http://imgur.com/a/BkzJc