Rabbit holes. opinions wanted

[Dragonlich1961]

First post on the forum so sorry if it's in the wrong spot.
Im getting ready to replace the radiator in my gf's truck. It's getting new hoses and a tstat. I was wondering what else should or is recomended while i'm in there( rabbit hole). truck is currently sitting at 185k

This truck has been poorly treated before my gf recived it. I had to rebuild the front suspensionwith bj's and bearings and rotors, rear u-joint, clutch. I removed the original plugs and wires at 175k.

2000 Ranger 2.3 5 speed base model 2wd.

Thanks
Chris

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Flush the heck out of it with water. Unhook the heater core and flush it both directions until it comes out clean.

Make sure you get as much water out as you can, after you drive it for awhile check the freezing temp of the coolant.

 

[jeremysdad]

Before you pull radiator.

Reverse flush heater core. Pull lower radiator hose to drain block. Add gallon of white vinegar. Top off with water while running til it is full. Drive 3 days.

Repeat. Change radiator, all hoses, thermostat, and radiator. Heater core if leaking (hope not, big job). Also flush overflow.

Add gallon of antifreeze (jug should say must add water). Top off radiator with water, start engine. Keep topping off til water pump seems satisfied, loosely install radiator cap.

Run to temp. Top off as necessary. Tighten radiator cap.

Point is...flush thoroughly or you wasted a radiator.

 

[Dragonlich1961]

i've put a heater core in as well,since it was releasing vapor into the cap. so it's had one fluid flush in it's life.

the truck was poorly maintain and severly mistreated. Ran to low on oil multiple times(1-1.5 out) the Transmission harmanic balancer( i don't know it's proper name) failed and beat the **** out of the drive shaft yoke and the pilot bearing in the flywheel. cat had a hole in it and the muffler fell off. manifold to collector bolts broke. fabricator brakctets to fix that. now one of the manifold to head bolts is missing.

Ive had to reseal the rear window(though i still get water) so now i have to reseal the little trim peice between the roof and b-pillar.

any other recomedations knowing the full abuse the truck has been through.

chris

 

[Dragonlich1961]

the Radiator is being replaced because of a crack in the plastic(slow leak near the lower hose), not because of over heating. i under stand the purpose of flushing and plan to do so profusely.

 

[adsm08]

VC-12 Iron cleaner. Get as much coolant out as you can, put a bottle of that stuff in, top off with water, drive to temp, then drain again. Do this before repairs or other flushing.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If you used silicone caulk, you might not know that once dried, it will not stick to itself. So adding a second layer is useless. The only way to fix a window leak properly is to remove it, fix any rust and replace.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

 

[Mark_88]

In 2000 the engine should be a 2.5 litre...basically the same as a 2.3 but the fuel system is 65 psi as opposed to 40 (up to 1997).

It is more powerful (freaking awesome 119 hp) with more torque...the rads are the same pretty much but the heater boxes are different...did you have to remove the dash to change the heater rad by any chance or did they change that feature?

 

[Dragonlich1961]

I fixed the window by pulling it out completely removing all old sealent reinstall with new sealent same type( dumb dumb). The old stuff had shrunk at the corners and you could see dust had gathered. I also resealed the third brake light. I'm positive that these aren't leaking.

 

[Dragonlich1961]

I had to pull the dash to remove the heater core but I did not have to evac the AC system. The evaporator is in the engine bay. I know that the engines are basically the same. My sister has a 89 that had a 2.3 it now has a 3.0.

 

[det107]

I also resealed the third brake light.

I had to do the same thing & used clear RTV.

Here's to you for making "the rabbit hole" reliable-

 

[enjr44]

All I can add is, you are one hell of a good BF. And, Welcome!!

 

[Dragonlich1961]

Thank you. it's her first truck and it came from her grandfather(old but still kicking). i plan to keep it running for as long as possible. it's the second longest running vechile at my house( first being a 91 mx-5/miata with 200k) and i plan to keep it for a while longer though i wish it was 4x4. Between my family(3) and my neighboor(2) who i maintain his stuff, we have had five rangers on our propety.

What's the recomended interval for timing belts? i figured while im in there that might be good to do.
Current parts bill sitting at 350 with a new rad, hoses, stat, gasket, timingbelt kit, waterpump, Cap and sep tensioner(bad pulley). if i can spare some extra cash and put stuff of till later. more work but cheaper in the short term.

Thanks chris.

 

[jeremysdad]

100k on the timing belt I believe.

 

[Mark_88]

Yeah, the timing belt would be a good project to get out of the way...when they break it can leave you stranded but no damage to the engine (usually)...unless someone has modified the engine and that doesn't sound like the case here...

Probably a one hour job once you know where everything is...but I would have done that before the rad because there isn't much room in there...not that you need much.

There is a video on here somewhere about changing one out...good info...