R/R AC condenser

[Denisefwd93]

Remove replace ... Take out fan, shroud and the radiator?

Sigh...had I known this was in store for me and having had the fan clutch done only a month ago.:bawling

off the wonderful start today! picked up a gallon of antifreeze, I'm tired, (or I really hate Walmart and it wears me down) maybe more tomorrow!
Good thing about a leakey AC system on the truck, I don't have to recover the refrigerant,

 

[Marty'70]

Nice. My 04 has a leak in the condenser too. Not looking forward to tackeling that one.

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[RonD]

I convert all my Rangers to 2-60 AC and never look back






2 widows down at 60mph
2-60 AC

 

[Denisefwd93]

I have a real problem with heat and my heart so it's not really I'd luxury it's more of a requirement for me to even go anywhere when it's hot outside.

Getting an answer to my question is going to be tough isn't it? do I need to have the radiator, fan and shroud out or can the radiator just be tilted back enough to replace the condenser?

I guess we could find out the hard way but it doesn't hurt to ask in advance!

 

[Marty'70]

Oh sorry didn't realize you were asking a question. Not much room in there. Probably gonna have to pull the rad and fan clutch. Saves from making a leaking rad to go along with leaking condenser.

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[Marty'70]

I convert all my Rangers to 2-60 AC and never look back






2 widows down at 60mph
2-60 AC

That's how it has been most of last year and all this year so far[emoji53]

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[Denisefwd93]

Looky look!( From a different forum)
Hoping the 99 is not too much different from a 94

Quote:*
1999 Ranger Workshop Manual - SECTION 412-03: Air Conditioning*

Condenser Core - Removal*

1. On the 4.0L engine remove the*aircleaner*outlet*tube*and the*engine*aircleaner; refer to Section 303-12 .*

2. Recover the refrigerant; refer to Section 412-00 .*

3. Disconnect the condenser to evaporator tube (19835) from the*A/C*condensercore.*

4. Disconnect the A/C manifold and tube (19D734) from the*A/C condenser*core.*

5. Remove the*radiator*mounting screws and tilt the*radiator*(8005) back.*

6. Remove the push pins and remove the*top*seal.*

7. Remove the condenser core mounting screws and remove the*A/C*condensercore.*

Installation*

1. Follow the removal procedure in reverse order.*

 

[Bgunner]

I personally would think that the radiator would need to be removed but my reference is the 3.0. The shroud can be unbolted and slid back over the fan and clutch to make plenty of room for radiator removal, fan and clutch removal is not necessary, since I just did my radiator last September. On the 3.0 there isn't enough room to get the condenser out without removing it but maybe there is on the 4.0. Just look really good at the room you have before pulling the condenser. Having a jug of antifreeze around is a good thing even if you don't use it this time as it may come in handy later. Just my opinion on this.

EDIT: I recommend either way you go to put rags over the fan blades to help prevent punctures of the radiator while either tilting it back or removal. I like to use old work shirts for this as they can hang over the blades.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Got the other half of my 2 & 60 AC working today! (the right window motor, now they both roll up and roll down)

I was looking, it almost looks like the condenser could come out from the front grill area but I'm going to call the garage that's going to do the engine on my truck, see if they'll change out the condenser for me, they did the fan and clutch for me because it all began with the fan clutch that would not come off the pump,

I hate doing things twice, sigh

 

[Bgunner]

Having both windows working is always a good thing no matter the temp out. I too had issues with getting my fan clutch off the water pump when I did my water pump gasket but in my case I was reusing the pump and had plenty of room to remove both in one piece. If I am assuming correctly, since both are newer, pump and clutch, they should separate a lot easier than ones that are years old.

My condenser is behind the front header (nose cone) which has a bar running from the top to the bottom making it impossible to extract the condenser through the front grill area. Since our trucks are the same except the motor yours will be mounted in the same spot and the same way. sorry but I don't believe that way will be an option. it will either come out the top or out the bottom.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Looking on YouTube A1 Auto has quite a few videos and a few other guys also,
Some don't take the fan blade off and lifted the radiator right out leaving the unbolted shroud in place Others remove the fan and clutch, the radiator in my truck has been replaced because it has automatic cooler connections and it's a manual truck..

 

[Marty'70]

Just saying, I looked at my 04 4.0. not alot of room in there like I said I'd remove the fan clutch and shroud at a minimum. If it was me doing it personally, the rad would come out too as well as a flash but I'm just anal

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[Marty'70]

Just saying, I looked at my 04 4.0. not alot of room in there like I said I'd remove the fan clutch and shroud at a minimum. If it was me doing it personally, the rad would come out too as well as a flash but I'm just anal

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Flush not flash

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[Bgunner]

No matter what the fan shroud will need to be unbolted and slid back. There are two bolts at the top only and it slides into two slots at the bottom. Once unbolted lift up on the shroud and it will come loose and just push it towards the engine. If left bolted into position it will interfere with the radiator being able to tilt towards the engine, on the other side of things it will stop the radiator from being removed if that is the route you go.

With the radiator removed there is, for sure, enough room to remove the condenser and not bump it on anything. I replaced my radiator last September or October and clearly remember saying to myself now would be a good time to change the condenser. The fan clutch does not need to be removed for this job nor does it need to be removed to replace the radiator, unlike many videos and manuals say.

Example of manuals being wrong: for the F series with the 6.0L diesel engine, it says that the head removal on them is a cab off job. This is not true! there is only 1 head bolt (on the right side) that is difficult to get to but you use a bit and wrench to get it out and install it. This saves lots of time and money for customers.

The '04 ranger has a different body style so how certain things are done will be different.

 

[Denisefwd93]

I'll a poke at it again but I'm just happy to have the other window fixed, now at least I can get some air in the truck when it's moving.