Quick torque spec Q

[harriw]

Hey folks,

Looking for a quick answer: I'm putting in a new Serp. belt, Tensioner, and Idler. Anyone know a torque spec for the Idler pulley (4.0 OHV)? Haynes said 30-40 ft-lbs for the tensioner bolt - that sound OK?

Thanks a ton!

-Bill

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Ford manual says 35-47 ft lbs.

 

[scotts90ranger]

people torque things? unless it's critical on the internals of the engine I just use my highly calibrated arm

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Very true....can't say I get the book out and look up stuff like that at work....but ask as ye shall receive.

 

[harriw]

Yup, I know I get overly concerned about torque specs and such. But as someone who only does this stuff occasionally (vs. some of you who do this for a living, or at least on a daily/weekly basis while wheeling, building, etc.), my arm isn't nearly as well calibrated as yours. Having a spec just helps me sleep better when I'm finished. Thanks very much for humoring me

Y'all rock by the way - this place is a fantastic resource for folks like me trying to save a few bucks by keeping an old truck going on my own

 

[Hopman]

Y'all rock by the way - this place is a fantastic resource for folks like me trying to save a few bucks by keeping an old truck going on my own

We try. We may not be perfect, but most of the time we can point you in the right direction.

 

[feellnfroggy]

Im the same way, a good hand tight is anywhere from 40-50 lbs. If your not a weenie. LOL

 

[AllanD]

people torque things? unless it's critical on the internals of the engine I just use my highly calibrated arm

Yeah, and that works great until you are tightening one of the bolts that mount the tensioners and you feel a funny "pop" and the bolt goes completely slack, because the high silicon aluminum-magnesium alloy they use for brackets is very brittle.

When the threads fail in those brackets the bolts often slip out of the hole with the original threads from the bracket sitting on the bolt looking like a sort of incomplete aluminum heli-coil...

I helicoiled EVERY bolt hole that goes into aluminum on my engine before I installed it in the truck.

Because doing it with the engine on the stand was a hell of a lot easier doing ALL of them that even doing ONE in the chassis would be.

I don't mind spending time modifying/improving things but I HATE "repairing" anything.

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[Ranger44]

I agree, I've never seen anybody with a torque wrench built into their arm.

There is a reason a torque spec is given.....use it.

 

[scotts90ranger]

it was a joke... but seriously in most cases just tightening them to feel works fine, I'm not saying everyone should do it though...

 

[Boghog1]

Stuff like that I do until my wrist pops, lug nuts I do until my elbow pops and if something really needs to be torqued down I tighten till my shoulder pops. that is the best part of getting older it makes it easier for me to determine the torque of things.

 

[rangerenthiusiast]

people torque things? unless it's critical on the internals of the engine I just use my highly calibrated arm

Mine’s fairly calibrated too, but in an age of aluminum, magnesium, pot metal alloys, and plastic, all that sh@t goes out the window... What worked on my ’69 Grand Prix would destroy a Ranger or F150.

 

[JoshT]

Yeah, and that works great until you are tightening one of the bolts that mount the tensioners and you feel a funny "pop" and the bolt goes completely slack, because the high silicon aluminum-magnesium alloy they use for brackets is very brittle.

Agreed. Being a mechanic professionally (aircraft not automotive) I've seen first hand how often a torque spec is there to limit torque applied. Often times a torque spec is there to protect what you are working on.

Know how often valve covers leak, especially stamped steel ones, and once reinstalled they never seen to seal up right. It's cause people tend to over torque and warp the flanges. Now can you guess why they might have about a 10 ft-lb torque spec. Same with the aluminum brackets that AllanD mentioned.

Other items like a intake manifold or head need to be torqued evenly and pretty damn tight. Without a torque wrench its near impossible to get a truly even torque or to know when you've gotten it tight enough, or it is for me anyway.