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quick cb wiring question


Please don't crosspost your Q in multiple forums, only one at a time is needed QUOTE]

:icon_cheers:I am just hastily preparing for a trail/camping trip this weekend and wanted to get it in and done so I can get everything ready. I got it all wired up. Its a uniden 510xp Pro. Alot easier than I thought it would be.
 
I wired mine with a relay... From battery to relay, grounded, and relay on/off(remote) to acc on fuse box... turns on only when ignition is on or acc, This way avoid leaving it on and drain the battery =)
 
I wired mine with a relay... From battery to relay, grounded, and relay on/off(remote) to acc on fuse box... turns on only when ignition is on or acc, This way avoid leaving it on and drain the battery =)

A CB left on for a week wouldn't drain the battery, not enough current draw, on receive 250 mA.

You have heard it all on wiring, but the battery will act as a filter to reduce, not eliminate, the noise in the electrical system.

If you do run the wires (both the red and blk) to the battery make sure to put an in-line fuse close to the battery to reduce chances of a fire IF there is a short.

Luck,
 
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A CB left on for a week wouldn't drain the battery, not enough current draw, on receive 250 mW.

You have heard it all on wiring, but the battery will act as a filter to reduce, not eliminate, the noise in the electrical system.

If you do run the wires (both the red and blk) to the battery make sure to put an in-line fuse close to the battery to reduce chances of a fire IF there is a short.

Luck,
yea, i got a fuse in the wiring. I also heard that speaker wire is not good for power, So i just bought a 12ga amp wiring kit:icon_idea:, and I didnt know that the battery charge could last that long with the CB on:icon_confused:... But owell, its wired already so just for precaution...:icon_cheers:
 
yea, i got a fuse in the wiring. I also heard that speaker wire is not good for power, So i just bought a 12ga amp wiring kit:icon_idea:, and I didnt know that the battery charge could last that long with the CB on:icon_confused:... But owell, its wired already so just for precaution...:icon_cheers:

As long as there is a good battery in the truck there should be no problem.
12 ga wire is overkill but I like overkill Speaker wire should not be used for anything but low end speakers. It might work in this case because of the low current draw but 16 ga automotive wire (the soft stuff) is the way to go.
The fuse needs to be close to the battery, that way if something shorts out then the fuse will blow and nothing gets burnt.

Magnet mounts are good for antennas and actually make the best connection to the body of the vehicle.
The antenna, if possible should be mounted as high as possible and centered on the vehicle but that doesn't mean it wouldn't work mounted somewhere else.

Luck on your choices of antennas.

ltr,
 
just to try it I wired the cb up to the ashtray wires and ran my coaxial down and around the drivers seat and out the window to a underhood style antenna mount on the driverside of the truck. I got one of those 3-4ft firesticks. I can hear what I think is people talking but it is VERY distorted. Again this is temporary but where should I start to get better reception.
 
I wired mine with a relay... From battery to relay, grounded, and relay on/off(remote) to acc on fuse box... turns on only when ignition is on or acc, This way avoid leaving it on and drain the battery =)

thiss is what im planning on doing also i have a acc relay wired in the cab with 10ga power wire that goes to the batt (fused) that i use for all my internal accesories lights strobes neon ........ is thisss a good idia will the relay introduse any noise into the system and should i ground to the frame or to my 4 ga amp wire that goes directly to the batt
 
IMHO... and everyone has one so do it the way it works for you !

The Main Power:
Run the red and blk wires directly to the battery, you can twist then together, 10 turns per ft but again my way.
Make sure you add an in-line fuse holder as close to the battery as possible on at least the red positive wire, some add fuses to both.
No relay, yes they add noise.
No Switches they add noise, direct to the battery from the back of the CB.
The in-line fuse that comes with the CB, leave it or take it out you call, I take then out.
Solder all wires, no taps, twist um up and solder and don't forget the heat shrink, w/ adhesive inside, before twisting the wires together.
(Some HAMs like to add a braid covering over the wires, not attached to anything on the CB end but on the battery end leave some hanging and ground it to the body, close to the battery.
NOTE: If you run a heavier wire, say 10 ga, to run multiple components, nice idea, but remember the main wire needs to be fused for the possible max current that will be drawn on that wire AND all components off of that wire will need their own fuses, so if you do it this way, the extra HD wire, make sure to leave the CB stock fuse in place.

Remember the Antenna is the most important part of the CB, mount it as high and centered on the as possible but remember one thing, the antenna/coax setup is a compromise situation at best. Mount it one place and you get noise from one component, mount it in another location and you get noise there too from something else. What you end up with is an antenna that either work the best it can mounted high/cntrd on the vehicle and tuned for lowest SWR or an antenna mounted WHERE YOU WANT IT and tuned the best you can to work at acceptable levels.

Sorry for being wordy, I get carried away, som… all of the time.
 
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i have 4 ga running into my cab for my amps would that be a good idia and also would i want to keep my antenna wire away from power wire
 
Yeah I think Ill direct wire the cb to the battery and move the antenna mount inside of the bed somewhere.
 
thiss is what im planning on doing also i have a acc relay wired in the cab with 10ga power wire that goes to the batt (fused) that i use for all my internal accesories lights strobes neon ........ is thisss a good idia will the relay introduse any noise into the system and should i ground to the frame or to my 4 ga amp wire that goes directly to the batt

Nope... No noise what so ever man. NO WINE, NO Static, No Interference with radio. Im very satisfied with the way i wire mine. Even though theres always that some one who has to say something negative about it:annoyed:
Highly recommend to wire it this way, like i said. It avoids battery drain, also wont "stress" factory wiring. But thats jus me. Good luck buddy.:icon_thumby:
 
The best and cleanest way for powering a Communication Radio is directly to the battery with an in-line fuse close to the battery for safety. Mount the antenna as far away from any noise generating components in the vehicle and ground the antenna mount to the body/frame of the vehicle.

Radio Systems in a mobile setup are compromises at best, some get out and receive better than other, some have less noise than others but all are hit or miss.
There are ways to do things that have worked in the past but nothing says in your system that they will work.

Mount the antenna and the CB where you want them, run the best coax you can (Belden - RG8X) buy a good quality antenna (Wilson or Firestik), get the antenna tuned for low SWR and if it works OK for you then let it be.

Also, wiring directly to the battery and leaving the CB "on" will not drain the battery overnight, IMHO not even in a week. A CB draws very, very little current when just sitting there receiving, maybe >.250 amps or less than a 1/4 of an amp.
If the battery goes dead and you left the CB on, it wasn't the CB; check the battery for a dead cell or something else has shorted and is draining the battery.

The relay thing, interesting but not needed, the draw from a CB transmitting is approximately 2 amps and shouldn't cause a problem for a direct wire. if you want to control the CB with the key then look for a power wire with that power on it and tap it or tap the circuit panel for the same type of power.
A relay will work as Ranger #1 has installed and is something to consider if you don't want to tap another wire. It involves added wire, a relay, a sw, and time to install but a good idea none the less.

Sorry getting carried away.
 
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A relay will work as Ranger #1 has installed and is something to consider if you don't want to tap another wire. It involves added wire, a relay, a sw, and time to install but a good idea none the less.

Sorry getting carried away.
thanks a bunch im really pleased with what i have done i just ran 10 ox free power transfer wire from bat to inside my cab and put it on a 30/40a tyco [see build thread] relay so now i have a constant 12v sorce [before the relay] and a acc on sorce [after relay] it really is piece of mind knowing your not overloading your factory harnes when using power hungry idems like a cb or inverter
 

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