Quick advice on motor mount locations!!!

[greasemonkey01]

some of you that completed the swap have any during-build pics of this perdickament I'm in?

 

[alaskan155]

i used l&l best money i spent

 

[wade]

Wade - What mounts did you use? I bought tri-y headers, so how low can I mount my motor?

I used 4.0L V6 mounts and made my own adapter plates. You can mount it as low (or as high) as you want it. Just need to be aware of complications with FEAD, Oil Pan, and Headers. You could mount it too far forward and interfere with Fan, Belt Drive, Radiator - stuff. You could mount it low and create a Header Headache (although, center of gravity would be better). I really think you'd have to work at it to mount it sooooo high that it wouldn't fit under the hood. The closer to the firewall, the better, 1/2" is good.

Personally, I avoid L&L, just because of their Rumplestilskin prices! In these times of economic uncertainty, I want the most bang for my buck. Others pay their price and swear by them. Me!? I'd swear at them!

Until lately, I used to do most of my posting over on RPS. I have lotsa' pics posted there. I post under "Wade" there, too. Most everything I've done, I've tried to post pics of. And, you need to understand that I'm not heavy into 4-Wheel drive or the high HP scene. I'm installing a stock 302 out of an '83 E-line, with CFI (throttle body injection) off of an '85 Crown Vic. The only thing I've actually gone aftermarket with, is the 2" Body Lift, the Edelbrock 2BBL aluminum manifold (with EGR) and the Patriot Clippster Headers (with custom 2-1/2" single exhaust system).
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179438

 

[v-8power]

Unless your c-6 is bigger than mine it'll fit without a body lift.

 

[baddad457]

Unless your c-6 is bigger than mine it'll fit without a body lift.

It'll jest be damned near impossible to access the bellhousing bolts once it's in place. And just as impossible to pull the transmission as well (by itself)

 

[baddad457]

wade - what mounts did you use? i bought tri-y headers, so how low can i moutn my motor?

With any mount, it'll only go as low as the mounts allow. With the stock vert mounts, there's a good 2-3 inches of clearance under the oil pan to the crossmember. But that still leaves you room under the hood for a 3" tall airfilter with an RPM/stealth/A321 style intake

 

[greasemonkey01]

well, with the AA mounts I have, it should only really mount in one location depth wise. Yeah I can move it forward and backwards but thats about it. As for removing the C-6, the body lift should take care of that. I guess I'll just give 'er hell...

 

[Iron Ranger]

I'm having doubts about the header to steering shaft clearance on mine. I still have to shim my stupid conversion crossmember mounts to make the MM studs fit. I would go with the V6 mount setup, but to save on headache I tack welded the locknuts to the inside of the crossmember.

Needless to say, I REALLY don't want to knock them out and have to fight with the little room you have on the pass. side

 

[wade]

Try Eliminating the Radius Arm Crossmember "Hot Rivets"

...Access the bellhousing bolts once it's in place. And just as impossible to pull the transmission as well (by itself)

Can't speak to the bellhousing bolt access issue for a C6 ('cuz I'm using an AOD). But, if you'll grind the "hot rivets" out of the radius arm crossmember, and replace them with bolts, then you'll be able to drop the crossmember down. With it out of the way, I can pull my Y-pipe and drop the AOD without much more ado. I'd figure that it would be of great convenience for any automatic trans. I may still utter an expletive and swear an oath directed at my bellhousing bolts, but with lots of extensions and a universal socket, I think I can get to them.

 

[baddad457]

Can't speak to the bellhousing bolt access issue for a C6 ('cuz I'm using an AOD). But, if you'll grind the "hot rivets" out of the radius arm crossmember, and replace them with bolts, then you'll be able to drop the crossmember down. With it out of the way, I can pull my Y-pipe and drop the AOD without much more ado. I'd figure that it would be of great convenience for any automatic trans. I may still utter an expletive and swear an oath directed at my bellhousing bolts, but with lots of extensions and a universal socket, I think I can get to them.

I did that as well long ago with the small bell C-4 I had started with. I tried a C-5 in after the C-4 bit the dust and had holy hell getting to the bell bolts. (big, deep bell) There's just not much room for a socket extension alongside the bell and takes a mile long extension(s) to reach up to the top bolts

 

[greasemonkey01]

got the motor and trans in... made a trick little tool for getting the mount studs dead nuts on. total awesome. Thanks to all for the advice. I had to pull it out a few times but their's always a learning curve

 

[v-8power]

Glad to hear it.

 

[sloue]

this is how i started

this is how i did it used old short block with new oil pan and tranny bolted up set it in place bolted tranny into its mount then lined it all up front . made my mounts out of 3/8 plate steel and new 2.8 motor mounts . and if you go with a c4 c5 combo do not mix up your flex plates up from c6 to c4 because a c6 flex plate will grind your tranny pump into dust!

 

[greasemonkey01]

this is how i did it used old short block with new oil pan and tranny bolted up set it in place bolted tranny into its mount then lined it all up front . made my mounts out of 3/8 plate steel and new 2.8 motor mounts . and if you go with a c4 c5 combo do not mix up your flex plates up from c6 to c4 because a c6 flex plate will grind your tranny pump into dust!

No I'm using the C-6 I found a used reman for dirt cheap & I've been having good luck with the C-6 in my '78 F-150 mud racer so I figured I drop one in the B2 too. As for the motor mounts I spent the cash & bought AA mounts not worth it unfortunatly because the BS install instructions that states "where you drill your holes may be different than where the diagram shows" Why the hell would you even include them if they may not work????

 

[83bagged]

I used 4.0L V6 mounts and made my own adapter plates. You can mount it as low (or as high) as you want it. Just need to be aware of complications with FEAD, Oil Pan, and Headers. You could mount it too far forward and interfere with Fan, Belt Drive, Radiator - stuff. You could mount it low and create a Header Headache (although, center of gravity would be better). I really think you'd have to work at it to mount it sooooo high that it wouldn't fit under the hood. The closer to the firewall, the better, 1/2" is good.

Personally, I avoid L&L, just because of their Rumplestilskin prices! In these times of economic uncertainty, I want the most bang for my buck. Others pay their price and swear by them. Me!? I'd swear at them!

Until lately, I used to do most of my posting over on RPS. I have lotsa' pics posted there. I post under "Wade" there, too. Most everything I've done, I've tried to post pics of. And, you need to understand that I'm not heavy into 4-Wheel drive or the high HP scene. I'm installing a stock 302 out of an '83 E-line, with CFI (throttle body injection) off of an '85 Crown Vic. The only thing I've actually gone aftermarket with, is the 2" Body Lift, the Edelbrock 2BBL aluminum manifold (with EGR) and the Patriot Clippster Headers (with custom 2-1/2" single exhaust system).
http://www.rangerpowersports.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179438

o yea i know itll fit under the hood no problem. but with my truck in the future i will do what is called a body drop, the opposite of a body lift actually. i will basically make my frame 3" tall instead of 6". that means that the actual BODY will sit 3" lower. meaning that my rocker panels and frame will sit even with each other.

kinda hard to explain, but thats what it is in a nutshell.
but i wont have to worry about that until like this time next year! but for now i still want to mount it fairly low...

but thank you wade!