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Questions about lowering a 2003 Ranger Edge


Lefty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
2,080
City
Saint Paul, MN
Vehicle Year
2003
Transmission
Automatic
I'm thinking about lowering my truck again. I lowered the rear already, using a 1" lift block in the rear, not a two inch. I cranked down the keys on the torsion bar and lowered the front about 5/8". I wanted to lower the front a little more for better handling and some slight aerodynamic advantage. The front is slightly lower than the back, but a little more wouldn't hurt.

I would need to buy new keys and maybe new shocks.

My questions are, have you done this? Is it worth it? and if so, would I need new shocks?

20230513_133005.jpg
 
Better aerodynamics are with the back lower than the front to reduce the angle of the windshield, kinda looks like you could just take the blocks out and be good there.

It's kinda up to you, not sure what would be needed to get where you're talking, maybe softer torsion bars or the '09-11 keys
 
To get the front much lower with torsion bars, you need different upper control arms. That’s where I’m at and @JoshT is at. I have the upper ball joint maxed out without the 09-11 keys. I need to be another inch or two lower with what I did to the rear of mine.
 
To get the front much lower with torsion bars, you need different upper control arms. That’s where I’m at and @JoshT is at. I have the upper ball joint maxed out without the 09-11 keys. I need to be another inch or two lower with what I did to the rear of mine.
good to know. Ill have to take another look tomorrow
 
good to know. Ill have to take another look tomorrow
We been trying to get one of the companies that made lowering arms to make another run, the one has been saying they will but hasn’t come through yet, maybe if enough of us complain they will make another run
 
If you don't have the 2008 - 2011 torsion bar keys in the truck yet, you might be able to get a little more drop. It sounds like you already got the axle blocks. Maybe with the late model keys, you'll be able to drop the truck a little more and not give it the Carolina Squat when you pull the axle blocks.
 
Based on my previous research and discussion with other folks, if you're looking for a 1 Inch overall drop you should be able to attain that pretty easily with the 2008-2011 keys, and deleting the rear block.

I would adjust the 08-11 keys as much as possible with some wiggle room for the ball joints.
 
If you don't have the 2008 - 2011 torsion bar keys in the truck yet, you might be able to get a little more drop. It sounds like you already got the axle blocks. Maybe with the late model keys, you'll be able to drop the truck a little more and not give it the Carolina Squat when you pull the axle blocks.
That's the idea. My changes have always been subtle, slowly dialing in my own personal ideal. Before I swapped the axle blocks from 2" to 1" and cranked down the stock keys, i pur a level on the truck, noticing that the stock configuration was raked slightly downward toward the front. I still got a downward rake, but not as much as before. A half inch or 3/4 would probably do it. Maybe those new keys would work.
 
Based on my previous research and discussion with other folks, if you're looking for a 1 Inch overall drop you should be able to attain that pretty easily with the 2008-2011 keys, and deleting the rear block.

I would adjust the 08-11 keys as much as possible with some wiggle room for the ball joints.
Yes! All except I did not delete the 2" blocks. I switched to 1", lowering a little, not a lot. I did lower the front cranking down the stock keys but I would like to go just a little further. Thanks for the tip!!!
 
Yes! All except I did not delete the 2" blocks. I switched to 1", lowering a little, not a lot. I did lower the front with the stock keys but I would like to go just a little further. Thanks for the tip!!!

Of course, I meant that you should be able to achieve a 1 inch rear drop, or close to it by deleting the block. If you don't get a full 1 inch drop, you can try doing the axle flip method and installing the lifting blocks underneath, effectively making them lowering blocks
 
Of course, I meant that you should be able to achieve a 1 inch rear drop, or close to it by deleting the block. If you don't get a full 1 inch drop, you can try doing the axle flip method and installing the lifting blocks underneath, effectively making them lowering blocks
Thanks again. I'm pretty happy with the back. I do like having a truck up just a little higher.
 
I'm thinking about lowering my truck again. I lowered the rear already, using a 1" lift block in the rear, not a two inch. I cranked down the keys on the torsion bar and lowered the front about 5/8". I wanted to lower the front a little more for better handling and some slight aerodynamic advantage. The front is slightly lower than the back, but a little more wouldn't hurt.

I would need to buy new keys and maybe new shocks.

My questions are, have you done this? Is it worth it? and if so, would I need new shocks?

View attachment 110904
Like others have touched on, do you already have the '08+ torsion keys? They changed the clocking of the keys in '08 for precisely your reason- to lower the nose for aerodynamics and thus fuel economy. It is a popular mod for '08-'11 owners to switch to the older keys to raise the front end, so you would simply be doing that swap the other way around.
 
Like others have touched on, do you already have the '08+ torsion keys? They changed the clocking of the keys in '08 for precisely your reason- to lower the nose for aerodynamics and thus fuel economy. It is a popular mod for '08-'11 owners to switch to the older keys to raise the front end, so you would simply be doing that swap the other way around.
I'm going have to find some. Thanks!!!
 
So, I have a set of the 08-11 keys…

I do not have them installed on my 2000 because with the key adjusters backed all the way out, my upper ball joint is maxed out already. No point to changing the keys if I can’t lower it anymore until I address the issue of the upper ball joint anyway. Unless the Edge models had a different setup that would allow for more lowering, the upper ball joint is the limiting factor in the front, not the keys.

I did an axle flip with the Explorer 8.8” in the rear with heavier leaf packs and still had to do a 2” lift shackle to get out of frame notch territory. I still hit the rear bump stops once in awhile, I think I may have to do pancake bump stops and possibly bags or something back there. Front definitely needs down another inch or so. Upper ball joints are maxed, I have virtually no up travel in the front. I’m not sure where the next max point will be, probably the shock or the lower ball joint, but hopefully changing the upper arm to get a better angle up there and the 08-11 keys will be enough to get where I want.
 

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