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questions about 3 codes pulled


will2045

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
174
City
Mt Pleasant, Mi
Vehicle Year
1984
Transmission
Automatic
So the check engine light has been on in my 1996 ford ranger 5sp 4.0l since i got it last year. always ran fine till lately its ran really rough starting today, so i check the codes and it had 3.

p0306 cyl 6 missfire
p1131 lean bank 1
p1443 evap emissions code.

so as you can see there i did some research, but i didnt find anyone who had any one of those codes and blatantly was able to say "blank" fixed that code. i also wanted to throw it up here and see if anyone had a similar combination of codes and thought maybe the combination pointed to something specific? like a common issue that could generate all three
 
The common issue generating all three codes is age. Stuff is wearing out.

I would say that the misfire is causing the stuck lean, but they are on different sides of the engine, so no go there.

I would start by replacing coil pack, plugs, and wires for that misfire and the bank one upstream O2 sensor for the stuck leak (probably just a bad sensor at that age, unless you have a really bad exhaust leak).

The evap leak is actually for the purge valve not working right. It is a little cylinder thing located in the line between the intake and the carbon canister near the driver's side headlight. I would start with testing it. Just get some wires and hook it up to the battery, see if it clicks.
 
The common issue generating all three codes is age. Stuff is wearing out.

I would say that the misfire is causing the stuck lean, but they are on different sides of the engine, so no go there.

I would start by replacing coil pack, plugs, and wires for that misfire and the bank one upstream O2 sensor for the stuck leak (probably just a bad sensor at that age, unless you have a really bad exhaust leak).

The evap leak is actually for the purge valve not working right. It is a little cylinder thing located in the line between the intake and the carbon canister near the driver's side headlight. I would start with testing it. Just get some wires and hook it up to the battery, see if it clicks.

thanks I'll give it all a shot
 
The common issue generating all three codes is age. Stuff is wearing out.

I would say that the misfire is causing the stuck lean, but they are on different sides of the engine, so no go there.

I would start by replacing coil pack, plugs, and wires for that misfire and the bank one upstream O2 sensor for the stuck leak (probably just a bad sensor at that age, unless you have a really bad exhaust leak).

The evap leak is actually for the purge valve not working right. It is a little cylinder thing located in the line between the intake and the carbon canister near the driver's side headlight. I would start with testing it. Just get some wires and hook it up to the battery, see if it clicks.

is there a way to test that o2 sensor before i change it?
 
is there a way to test that o2 sensor before i change it?

You can swap the two front sensors side to side and see if the code follows the sensor.
 
Okay so ive done plugs wires and tested the coil and injector and did a compression test on cyl 6 and everything is good and i still have the erratic misfire when its cold. when I reset the codes after doing the plugs and wires the only code that came back was the cyl 6 misfire which i can hear very erratic when the truck is cold. I'm at my wits end with running in circles to fix this, does any one have another suggestion?
 
The common issue generating all three codes is age. Stuff is wearing out.

I would say that the misfire is causing the stuck lean, but they are on different sides of the engine, so no go there.

I would start by replacing coil pack, plugs, and wires for that misfire and the bank one upstream O2 sensor for the stuck leak (probably just a bad sensor at that age, unless you have a really bad exhaust leak).

The evap leak is actually for the purge valve not working right. It is a little cylinder thing located in the line between the intake and the carbon canister near the driver's side headlight. I would start with testing it. Just get some wires and hook it up to the battery, see if it clicks.


I checked out the purge valve and (i swear I bought it like this) but its not hooked to anything. The one end has a hose to the canister and the other end is open to atmosphere. there is a vacuum line up by the EGR valve that is plugged should I assume it is supposed to go there? or where would the end of the purge solenoid not hooked to the canister normally connect to?
 
Okay so more looking and apparently that purge solenoid connects to the purge flow sensor and then that is supposed to connect to the intake except mine does not connect to the intake after the flow sensor. does this matter? where on the intake is it supposed to be connected?
 

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