Putting AC in Non-AC Ranger Switch Question

[CatBee]

Yeah in my brother's '99 2.5 it was a must to turn the AC off to get up a hill, but the 4.0 I'm not worried about it. If I REALLY need the power I'll just use the button and turn it off myself. I guess now once I start taking my truck really apart I'll get to see if I at least have some wiring where the button is, but I suspect I won't with how this has been going so far.

 

[CatBee]

Took the heater box off. Confirmed I do have the flap which saves me the trouble of taking the dash out I hope, but looking at the passenger loom from the firewall I do NOT have the C167 colors of pink and darkgreen/orange, so I do not have the wiring.

 

[CatBee]

Alright I've got another question. I've been putting stuff together today. Got the new box in with evaporator core, got the condenser in and the compressor. On the condenser there are two of those donut style connectors. There is also a donut style connector on the hose into the drier. The one on the drier is bigger than the ones on the condenser. I have the proper clip for the big one on the drier, but I don't have the smaller clips that go for the condenser and I can't find any part numbers for the smaller clips either. Does anyone have any part numbers or insight for those smaller clips? Or will I be going back to the junkyard for them?

 

[Uncle Gump]

These?

6L2Z-19E746-AA - 2000-2014 Ford - AC Line Retainer | My Ford Parts https://share.google/wA7byLlQncna7AOlP

 

[CatBee]

These?

6L2Z-19E746-AA - 2000-2014 Ford - AC Line Retainer | My Ford Parts https://share.google/wA7byLlQncna7AOlP

No that's the part number for the larger one on the drier that I already have unfortunately. The donuts on the condenser are smaller and requires a smaller clip somehow.

 

[CatBee]

The new hose I have that bolts to the back of the compressor has this brass thing on it. Normally I'm 99% sure the cutoff switch goes here, but the cutoff switch is a female thread so I have no way to thread it in and the female thread in the line is different to the female thread of the switch. Is this brass thing a relief valve making the cutoff switch unnecessary? Or do I need to figure out some sort of fitting adapter situation?

 

[CatBee]

Ok I've figured some things out. Based on the wiring diagrams I have, there is no cutoff switch on the back of the compressor so that saves me trouble. Also I've figured out a great deal in terms of wiring. I put in the new A/C switch panel in the dashboard today and my truck DOES have the wiring on the interior, including the purple wire for the button. That purple wire goes into this 8 wire connector, but doesn't come out on the other side because of my truck not having factory A/C.

Additionally, I took the bottom of the fusebox off in the engine bay and the slot of the WOT relay IS populated and has the wires there. The important ones I needed were the input Dark-green/orange wire and the output Black/Yellow wire. Looking closer in the engine bay, I found on the passenger side another plug where the Green/orange wire went in, but never came out again.

I then looked around more on the driver side and found another plug, this one with the Black/Yellow wire going into it, but not coming out.

So, with this knowledge, my wiring job has become MUCH easier and I can make it basically completely stock. On the passenger side I replaced the OEM connector (which sucks, I hate Ford connectors) with a DT connector so that I can have my Green/Orange wire go to where it needs to.

On the interior, I used the stock firewall grommet to push a wire through the firewall into the engine bay for my button wire.

So now on the passenger side I have both of the wires I need to go into the cycling switch.

On the interior, I didn't redo the whole connector because the wires in that connector look too big to fit into my DTs that I have, so I just cut the purple wire (with enough distance from the connector in case I want to reverse this) and I crimped it to the wire I ran through the firewall. Tomorrow of whenever I have time next, I plan on cutting the driver side Black/yellow wire in the same fashion and crimping it to a wire that will go to the compressor. I will also be adding a diode like how the wiring diagram lays out using a MINI fuse sized diode and an inline fuse holder, and then my wiring should be done and pretty much OEM, at least in function.

 

[RobbieD]

You are making great progress, but I'd confirm that Black/Yellow wire is the right one before cutting it (circuit # 347). Because, the factory diagrams doesn't support Black/Yellow #347 going through an 8-pin connector.

Easy enough to do; with a multimeter set for "continuity" or "ohms", probe the WOT relay center pin and the Black/Yellow on the 8-pin. You're looking for continuity; or close to 0 ohms.