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Pulling the trans


Ranger850

Doesn't get Sarcasm . . .
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Jan 24, 2018
Messages
8,610
City
Tallahassee Florida
Vehicle Year
2001
Transmission
Manual
Total Lift
Stock 2"
Tire Size
Stock
My credo
Doing things wrong, until I get it right.
'01 2wd 3.0 manual 5spd. How difficult is it to get that sucker out. The motor is still in and I plan on removing the drive shaft and dropping it. I got the front wheels off the ground about 8" hanging. How many bellhousing bolts and size?
Any wires or sensors to watch out for?
How much does it weigh?
Should I get my nephew to help or can I do it myself? He would be there just to hand me stuff and possibly hold something. :LOL:definitely not to get dirty.:ROFLMAO:
 
I like to put the truck up on ramps in the front, then jack the rear up so it sits level, more room to work.

Bell bolts should be 13mm, not sure of the count on a 3.0, at least 2, probably more.

Trans probably weighs 150 lbs, give or take 150 lbs. It's heavy enough that you can move it around by yourself, but you don't want to try bringing it down by yourself. I have an HF scissor style trans jack that works well.

Get your nephew to help, and make him get dirty. There isn't a lot of room for two people under there, but an assistant is helpful. A 3-foot extension with a swivel is also helpful.

Since the exhaust has to come off a hot wrench can be helpful, but isn't required.

You will need to get the O2s, and the reverse light switch unplugged, not much else.


Also, the shifter bolt confuses some people. You take the nut off the side it's on and put it on the other side and tighten it, that will pull the bolt out.
 
I have a floor jack to catch it and bring it down. I can raise the rear, no problem. Will have to get a 3' extension. What is a hot wrench? I think I understand the shifter bolt thing.
 
I have a floor jack to catch it and bring it down. I can raise the rear, no problem. Will have to get a 3' extension. What is a hot wrench? I think I understand the shifter bolt thing.

I just use the ramps because it's a nice consistent height that I know works for me.

I have used a floor jack to drop these transmissions, but I don't care for it. With the round bottom they almost always want to roll. You might not get that as bad as I do being a 2wd. I have 50 lbs of transfer case hanging off center.

Hot wrench is a torch.
 
I seem to remember 6 or 8 bell housing bolts. The top 2 are easier to get if you support the transmission with a jack, remove the crossmember, then lower the rear a bit so the engine tilts down a little. Be careful of the distributor. I removed the cap and electrical plug on mine so they wouldn't hit the firewall when I tilted the back of the engine down. I lowered mine with a large floor jack by myself. But I had the transfer case removed first. I also couldn't get it back in by myself. The floor jack was risky and I had an experienced helper. I strongly recommend buying, borrowing or renting a transmission jack. I think I put some more description in my build thread. There are also pictures there of the Haynes manual pages with the torques specs you will need.
 
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Thanks @adsm08 and @ericbphoto. It's a one way trip for the trans. Looking for a v8 donor. Motors kinda locked up. It moves but only a little bit. It will probably come out in pieces
 
is the cup removable on your floor jack?
when I did the clutch in my 2005 2.3 manual I bolted a board across the floor jack. board was about 24-26". then I attached 2 shelf brackets facing up to keep the tranny from rolling. that also allows you to rock the tranny up/down. you could probably use a shorter board if the brackets faced inwards and went under the tranny.

front wheels on 8" ramps, rear on stands.
I was about 58-59 at the time and did it solo. I suspect they are less than 150 lbs.

a helpful hint for the upper bell bolts if you don't have extensions.

generic helpful hint...
you know how a boxed end wrench has an angle to save your knuckles?

put the wrench on the top bell bolts with the wrench angled away from the firewall, then put a helper on the wrench. you have to try different positions to get one that works. be sure the wrench is fully seated. it helps in some situations, depends a lot on how flexible you are. I haven't tried it with a flex wrench yet.
 
My jack has a low profile and a large flat disc. Idk if it's removable. My main concern is removing the exhaust. I don't want to break the manifold bolts. Will pb blaster be any use. I do have a small bottle torch and a spare bottle, would that work as a hot wrench? It's about the size of a I liter coke bottle. Acetylene?
 
Acetylene is good, oxy is better. Basically you want to get the nut red hot.

PB is not without value, but nothing beats heat.
 
Acetylene is good, oxy is better. Basically you want to get the nut red hot.

PB is not without value, but nothing beats heat.
LOL I was asking if my little blue bottle was Acetylene. I guess I could check myself.:tease:
 
3.0 trucks are, IMO, very easy to do trans work on. Second only to the older 4 cylinder trucks. I have not had to touch the exhaust on a 3.0 truck... just pull the trans back, turn it, and wiggle it down. 2wd trucks are even easier. Make sure you either drain the trans or plug the tail housing or you will spill ATF all over!
 
3.0 trucks are, IMO, very easy to do trans work on. Second only to the older 4 cylinder trucks. I have not had to touch the exhaust on a 3.0 truck... just pull the trans back, turn it, and wiggle it down. 2wd trucks are even easier. Make sure you either drain the trans or plug the tail housing or you will spill ATF all over!
Thanks @Shran. But, the motor is going to come out too, eventually . I assume the exhaust is going great to come off some point.
 
Anything I didn't plan on using to reassemble the truck... I wouldn't worry to much about. Like the exhaust manifold studs... you don't plan on reusing them... if they break... so be it. But PB does help... and the small torch (blue tank is most likely propane) might help too.... doubtful it will heat them up to glow red.
 
I left my exhaust manifolds on and just removed the crossover pipe from them. Just 2 bolts on each side plus the 3 at the main collector before the cat.
 
Anything I didn't plan on using to reassemble the truck... I wouldn't worry to much about. Like the exhaust manifold studs... you don't plan on reusing them... if they break... so be it. But PB does help... and the small torch (blue tank is most likely propane) might help too.... doubtful it will heat them up to glow red.
Propane? of course it is..
Thanx @Uncle Gump and @ericbphoto for the tidbits. Everything helps.:icon_thumby:
 

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