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Pulling Engine and Trans with Body Drop


ZSK

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2007
Messages
151
City
Jacksonville, FL
Vehicle Year
2004
Transmission
Automatic
In a previous thread: http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54576 I was asking about how to free up a seized motor. Well it is almost certain that we cannot get the motor to free up with out starting from the bottom up. In order to pull the oil pan, the motor has to come out. I'm thinking the transmission has to come out with the engine because we can't turn over the motor to get the tourque converter nuts off. Unless someone can enlighten us. We are at the point of pulling the front end off and pulling the motor and trans right out the front. Any ideas?:icon_confused:
 
if you really want to do it body-off basically 10 body bolts, and a handful of wire harnesses to disconnect......
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the front clip is spot welded on (a guy from another rbv forum said it was something like 56 spot-welds on one fender)

i have done a lot of engine swaps, and pulling the trans out with the engine isn't too hard, especially if its 2wd.
 
a RANGER only has SIX body mount bolts holding the cab to the frame.

as for lifting the body off to get the engine out...

That is SOP at a ford dealer on any '96-up F-series

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a RANGER only has SIX body mount bolts holding the cab to the frame.
+4 for the bed right?

as for lifting the body off to get the engine out...

That is SOP at a ford dealer on any '96-up F-series

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with 2 cherry-pickers and all?:icon_rofl: just kidding that broncoII body weighs waay more than a ranger cab trust me get 2 cherry-pickers, 2 10' 4"x4"s (about $7 each at home depot), and i used a 15,000lb tow-strap on each-side to lift with. the reason that i suggest the 10' instead of the 8' is because it allows you to extend the legs of the cherry pickers out further than the hook so it is much more stable and you'll still have room to roll the chassis out.

after its lifted, roll the chassis out drop the cab onto some blocks or jackstands to avoid rocker-panel damage, then use one of the cherry pickers to pull your engine when its done.......wash-rinse-repeat you know?
 
I saw an 05 F-150 with auto trans/seized engine come through the shop once. We undid the bell bolts, pulled out the rad and the crank pulley and balance and then pulled the TC out with the engine. It was a bit tight, but it worked. We got the converter off once the bottom end was pulled apart and the bent rod wasn't keeping it from turning anymore.
 
as for lifting the body off to get the engine out...

That is SOP at a ford dealer on any '96-up F-series

AD

Saw 2 of them in that position just today. Sure does make a lot of things simpler.
 
The inner fenders are almost gone on this truck it's tuckin'. There's only about an inch of material above the wheel well, and then it's two body mounts up front and the front clip is off. We're pretty limited on room to try and pull the cab and this isn't a truck to leave parts sit outside. I know how the TC hooks to the motor, how does it hook to the trans? Just a straight spline to the input or does it "lock in" somehow?
 
The inner fenders are almost gone on this truck it's tuckin'. There's only about an inch of material above the wheel well, and then it's two body mounts up front and the front clip is off. We're pretty limited on room to try and pull the cab and this isn't a truck to leave parts sit outside. I know how the TC hooks to the motor, how does it hook to the trans? Just a straight spline to the input or does it "lock in" somehow?

splines onto the input shaft, not dissimilar to a clutch disk on a manual trans. You just pull the converter off the tranny. Best way I've seen to do it if you don't want to pull the cab.

The TC does kinda "clip" onto the input shaft, but its more like the circlips on the inboard side of half shaft or the 10.25 inch diff axle shafts that just pull out.
 
The torque converter just slides off the input shaft of the trans you will need about 8 to 10 inches to slide the engine and converter out. Jack up engine, remove motor mounts, radiator a/c condenser all pulleys on the front of the engine place jack under front of trans and lift till it hits floor board then the engine should come out with engine hoist. Replace the torque converter seal when reinstalling engine. you will loose about 3 qts. of trans fluid when removing engine with converter so be prepared for the mess.
 
I should mention that the body drop leaves hardly any room between the body and trans
 

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