Pulling a A4LD Transmission.

[guzzirider]

I have a 93 Ranger XLT 4X4 X Cab; I am getting ready to pull the A4LD Transmission.
I plan on replacing it with a A4LD Transmission from an 93 Explorer 4x4
I climbed under the truck to see what I am getting myself in to….
I have never replaced a trans from a ranger before or something this new?
Please if anyone has some advice I can use it!!!!!!!

 

[Viper Command]

as long as they bolth use the same motor, you should be fine. there the same trans and TC.

 

[guzzirider]

How hard is it to pull, the top 4 bolts how do you get to them?

 

[Nhaz]

The top 4 bolts are accessed by tilting the transmission and engine down at the back side and using about a 3 foot extension. no joke. Its actually not too bad to do.

The real problem you are going to run in to is getting the transmission over top of the Y pipe when you try to remove it after you have unbolted everything.

I have heard of people managing this trick. But I haven't managed it. The real trick to avoid the problem, is to unbolt the passenger side cab bolts all 3 of them and then jack the passenger side of the cab up about 2 or 3 inches off the frame. This gives you just enough space to get the transmission over the Y pipe. You may want to start soaking the cab bolts a few days in advance with penetrating fluid of some sort.


Now. You may ask why not just unbolt the Y pipe? This is a huge can of worms. Don't do it. The Y Pipe bolts are almost 100% guaranteed to snap in the exhaust manifold and you will be MANY MANY hours trying to fix that problem. Avoid it altogether =>

Its also a heavy sucker so support for the transmission while isn't a must is sure helpful. Last time I did this I put a 4x4 piece of wood from one door window to the other and used a rope down through the manual shifter panel in the floor to hold up the transmission while you wiggle it all over the place =>

 

[guzzirider]

Nhaz,

Thank you very much for your advice! I am going to start on it tomorrow.

 

[Viper Command]

correct me if im wrong, but wouldent it be easyer to drop the exhaust (y pipe and the cats). This takes me 15 min. and gives me more room at the starter, bell housing, and when draining the pan.

just my 2 cents...

 

[low_five]

I get those 4 bolts with a 13mm box end wrench from the top.

 

[Explorin94]

correct me if im wrong, but wouldent it be easyer to drop the exhaust (y pipe and the cats). This takes me 15 min. and gives me more room at the starter, bell housing, and when draining the pan.

just my 2 cents...

That is if you can get the bolts/nuts loose from the exhaust manifolds without breaking them while doing so.

 

[Nhaz]

I agree dropping the Y pipe is faster, But only if you KNOW those bolts are not going to break.

They are going to break.

 

[kevinsranger]

i got the top bolts on the trans by removing the shifter plate in the floor from inside the cab and using an extension and ratchet! but i have a 3" body lift, so clearance isnt an issue

 

[pcollins]

see how much rust there is on those y pipe bolts...you might be able to get it off. i know its a lost cause up here in NY after 1 winter...but you might get lucky.

 

[cocoasranger]

When I managed a muffler shop we spun manifold flange nuts off with an impact gun a couple times each day and rarely had a problem. What you do is heat up the nut only with an oxy/acty. torch till it's bright orange (we used the cutting torch w/o hitting the oxy trigger), then spin it off with the impact gun.

Another way is to heat up only the manifold boss where the stud threads into it bright orange, then run off the nut which will bring the stud along with it leaving a nice threaded hole for the new stud.

You can also cut off the nut from the stud with the cutting torch if a socket won't fit, but this requires a little practice.