Pulled my codes...need help!!

[The_Dealer]

ok, so i pulled my codes trying to figure out why my junk is running like ass, i couldnt do koer codes but could do koeo codes and heres what i got

23...wheres the tps?
31...whats evp?
54...should i drill my filter housing and install?

68...got isc unplugged, my idle would go way high and drop down erratically
87...would this cause my hard starting?
89...i have a manual lockup

would any of these codes cause problems to make it run bad? idle is starting to have that "lope" sound, it has no power, and im getting about 10 mpgs(with a new air filter i put on yesterday). all my vacuum lines seem to be intact except 2. the orange is going to what looks like a fpr on the carb, but my diagram says it should be light blue, but it runs better with the orange on it.

where does this go?

what line goes on this?

 

[dangerranger83]

Are you allowed to go to a duraspark setup? If so I would do that. Second to last picture is the air temp sensor connector, used on original air filter housing. The last picture is the oil breather cap, it to connected to the original air filter housing.

 

[exbass94]

That is the low pressure sensor for the air conditioning. It will not cause any codes.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

tps throttle position sensor is on the bottom left side of the carb below the choke on the shaft for the throttle
evp is the egr position sensor tells how far open the egr is
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/1983vacuumhoseguide.jpg
the orange one goes to inside the filter housing it is probably setting the evp code i allows the egr valve to close it is jus a relief tube the tcp or the valve thing on the front of the carb is for the accelerator pump hook it to the blue line.
Is your choke open all the way the wire to the thermostat is not plugged in
the IAT sensor also needs to be in the air filter and measures the temp of the intake air. All the sensors need to be hooked up along with the vacuum lines then disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to half an hour to reset the computer. Do a KOEO test and when it starts sending codes stop the test to erase the memory. then bring the engine up to temp about 15-20 mins then run the codes while it is hot KOER it should run if you have everythin connected.

 

[The_Dealer]

i just figured i'd try to get it running good with it computer controlled. im not going to use the carb i was planning on using for the duraspark, and im missing some items. i was gonna get it running right with the factory eecv

 

[The_Dealer]

tps throttle position sensor is on the bottom left side of the carb below the choke on the shaft for the throttle
evp is the egr position sensor tells how far open the egr is
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/diagrams/1983vacuumhoseguide.jpg
the orange one goes to inside the filter housing it is probably setting the evp code i allows the egr valve to close it is jus a relief tube the tcp or the valve thing on the front of the carb is for the accelerator pump hook it to the blue line.
Is your choke open all the way the wire to the thermostat is not plugged in
the IAT sensor also needs to be in the air filter and measures the temp of the intake air. All the sensors need to be hooked up along with the vacuum lines then disconnect the battery for 15 minutes to half an hour to reset the computer. Do a KOEO test and when it starts sending codes stop the test to erase the memory. then bring the engine up to temp about 15-20 mins then run the codes while it is hot KOER it should run if you have everythin connected.

so does that mean i need to buy a new egr position sensor and tps? also my housing isnt stock, how can i run the orange hose and iat to the housing? and yes my choke kept gettn stuck close so i unpluged it and it stays open

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Oops the link I gave you is for the 83 vacuum lines yours is a little different I dont have a color one to look at from firewall to battery
tcp on the front of the carb
tad goes to the diverter valve the one on top
tab is the bypass valve
the first egr solenoid is the bleed and the second goes to the egr so the last one goes to the preheater door just plug it. You have to have all the sensors plugged in at least for it to run descent the computer will get mixed up and go wacko. for the egr stick your finger up under the valve up in one of the holes and see if it moves when you give it gas. Make sure all your vacuum leaks are fixed Gawd I`m glad I durasparked mine all that crap goes away if you can.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

What you got that backwards when the choke is plugged in it should open all the way unplugged closes it. Not sure what is going on there but yea you might get lucky just connect everything up the way it should be and reset thwe computer by disconnecting the battery who knows.

 

[The_Dealer]

im confused wats the tad and tab?

how do i hook the orange hose to the air cleaner?

mine doesnt have what the black hose, and the orange hose goes too, i have everything else

so with the iat gone would that make it run bad?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

tad is the air diverter and tab is the bypass tey ar for the air pump tad is the one on top I dont have a color vacuum diagram I am just going from the letters on the solenoids the one closst to the battery gets plugged you dont have a door it controls and the one closest to the firewall goes to the carb on the front the main thing is to put the IAT in the air filter housing and reset the computer erase the memory and run the codes again but you have to bring the engine up to temp first.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

loosen the screws for the choke and turn it clockwise about 1/2 a turn for now so it dont f things up.

 

[The_Dealer]

all of my smog is gone, so i just plug the black and orange lines? and install the iat in the filter housing? might just make a metering block for my carb and try to get my remaining duraspark stuff

 

[kimcrwbr1]

everything has to be there and working or the computer say F U.