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Project Street 1.0 (revisited)


Not much money is actually being spent...Machining for the studs and guideplate is $160 and $50 for the parts. and $89 if i choose valve guides. that's roughly $300, springs are only $53 and new locks are $15 so that's $367. if i find out how much it is to back the valves, (which have been proven by Car Craft to really work on Ford heads)i'd be just around $450 total and if well be plenty for my application right now.
 
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Well my pics didnt work too well....

Your not going to have your seats and valves done? No surface???

thats crazy dude......
 
I going to lap the valves myself, i probaly will have the heads surface but right now i'm alittle short on cash so i'll have the others stuff done first.
 
How bout a quickie

...Will polishing the back side of the intake valve be worth anything? just wondering cuz i just did 4 of them.
 
More parts are in!

got my order of valve train components this afternoon. let's start with

A XE256H cam from Comp Cams
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7/16" ARP Rocker Studs...don't worry there's 16 of them
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ARP Cam Bolt
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Comp Cam 5/16" guide plates
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and then the summit racing fixed ring compressor...you know what those look like so no pic...but it made piston installition so easy...just 2 to go!
 
pistons are in now

but the rod bolts aren't torqued yet...i'll have a friend come over so i can show her how this stuff works and all.

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HAHAHA, this is kinda funny

hahah so here's the situation i'm in...7 of the pistons were in (WERE) piston 2 somehow got a bent oil ring. also the crank would not turn over. i checked the counter weight and pistons...no clearance problems...so i tore the engine apart checking to see if the rod caps were put on the right direction..everything ok...get to piston #8 and discover the the bearing half for the cap is laying on top of the other half...yeah i know! didn't notice it when i tightened the cap down (didn't torque it, just snug) so those bearings are junk...here's some more fun. rod cap number 8 is stuck around the threads of the bolts...won't go down or up so the piston is still in the block...so i'm taking the block up to Budd to get a new oil ring 4 set of bearings on hopefully he can get the cap off...oh fun fun!!
 
A little more progress

Camshaft was installed all pistons are in if i didn't mention that early and i got the cylinder heads back

Fresh from Bud's
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Rocker studs and guideplates in
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Resurfaced
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I started cleaning the combustion chambers, making them smooth for reduced hotspots and less carbon build-up...Dad will be getting the intake combo from summit racing soon...if you don't remember what was in it here you go

1 Summit Racing stage 1 intake (Performer nock-off)
1 Summit Racing 600cfm vaccum sec, e-choke carb
gaskets, bolts, carb studs, sealant and chrome air filter assembly all for $399
 
Been gone awhile

but here's the progress.
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cylinder head on and torqued
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roller rockers and intake
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and essentially the completed motor
Here's the truck it's going in...ain't she pretty
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Core support and fenders off...lot's of spot weld's, thanks dad!
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engine bay gutted
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taking a wire wheel to the seam sealer...nasty stuff getting ready for some flat black
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test fitting the engine...(GLAD WE BOUGHT A SHOP CRANE)
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engine completely bolted in...just running wire and lines
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4.0L radiator...it'll do for now!
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just a random shot!
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driver side downpipe
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passenger side
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clean gauge panel.
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Awesome job on the motor, howd you do with fitting hte long tubes? ANy clearance issues? DId you do a body lift to help the install? What transmission you using?
 
hey froggy...they are shorties from Hedman (HED-88400) from summitracing. the downpipes were fabbed from scrap pipe from a cat-back on my other Ranger
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just needed to dent the firewall for the downpipe to have some wiggle room!
the trans is a HD C-4 from a E-100 van. TCI sizzler converter (1700 stall)
Ohh....and no body lift!
 
I know this is what most people really want to see in a build
THE FIRST START-UP, it's technically the 3rd but who cares, watch!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GE-6erO4VIM

figuring out the exhaust right now...we have to run it to the passenger side. we're going under the tranny tailshaft...My method will cost $37 and 2 seams to weld and my dad's will either cost $50 to $60 and 4 or 5 welds, that's if we do it ourselves but he is very stubborn
 
got a 16" e-fan on the way pushing 2,010cfm as well as 2 purple hornie mufflers...the 2 1/4" version. just gonna have 2 turn downs right off the mufflers about where the rear tires are! then just a shifter and cut the driveshaft and she'll be on the road, not legally but who cares!
 

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